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re: Ugggghh shopping for a car. Start today.
Posted on 8/15/26 at 9:34 am to LSU alum wannabe
Posted on 8/15/26 at 9:34 am to LSU alum wannabe
It’s a war of attrition
Really mentally exhausting and a waste of time
Really mentally exhausting and a waste of time
Posted on 8/15/26 at 9:35 am to BabyTac
quote:
But used, private party, pay cash….Honda or Toyota. Keep it forever
I’ll say this is harder than I imagined. Private party sources are shite (is FB marketplace really the best option?) and everyone thinks their used car is worth $20k regardless of age.
I have 3 teens and today’s experience is so much more complicated than 10yrs ago
Posted on 8/15/26 at 9:36 am to FLBooGoTigs1
quote:
So just lock in the lowest price? When they do that then tell them you are using your own financing?
Exactly, focus on the OTD price of the car as the primary means to the negotiation. Then hit them with, "I have arranged my own financing terms". This is going to piss off the finance manager, because they get paid on selling Gap insurance, inflated warranties, vehicle etching ect ect, they rely on the convenience of providing financing to unsuspecting people who walk in at an exorbitant cost.
Posted on 8/15/26 at 9:36 am to LSUfan20005
quote:Avoid entirely.
FB marketplace
It’s a cesspool and dealerships have started posting on there with trick posts to get people to the dealership.
Posted on 8/15/26 at 9:38 am to Scruffy
An alternative model growing is to have someone else buy the car for you. They take like a $1000 fee but you don’t do anything and they negotiate everything based on the parameters you provide.
Posted on 8/15/26 at 9:41 am to LSU alum wannabe
The ridiculous add-on fees are OOC.
You want an OTD price, itemized to include all fees. Work back from that number.
California may do a lot of things wrong, but they cap that bullshite at $85.
You want an OTD price, itemized to include all fees. Work back from that number.
California may do a lot of things wrong, but they cap that bullshite at $85.
Posted on 8/15/26 at 9:42 am to LSU alum wannabe
I enjoy car shopping bc I’m not poor
Posted on 8/15/26 at 9:44 am to Scruffy
quote:
FB marketplaceAvoid entirely.
It’s a cesspool and dealerships have started posting on there with trick posts to get people to the dealership.
Half the posts are total scams too. If you see a sweet deal, like a 1998 Silverado in perfect shape for $6,000, it’s probably fake.
Posted on 8/15/26 at 9:44 am to LSUfan20005
quote:
Exactly what I’ve done in the past, but every time the dealer magically finds me a better rate.
It's gotta be just like wholesalers can get better rates from distributors due to volume buys versus joe blow down at the market.
Economies of scale.
Posted on 8/15/26 at 9:45 am to LSU alum wannabe
I think buyers are at fault for overcomplicating it just as much as the sellers.
Be prepared. Have a downpayment or a trade. Know what you want and find the vehicle online. Do all negotiating over the phone or even better email so it's in writing. Get preapproved for financing through your bank or lowest rate you can find. Make sure the person you negotiated the sale with is available in-person and drive to dealership and buy the car. A common sales tactic is to then stick a different salesperson to you so they can pretend they know nothing of previous negotiation once they have you in-person. Talk to your original salesperson or no one at all. Do you really need to test drive 8 different vehicles? If something is wrong with it off the lot they will take care of it anyways. Say no to anything and everything they try to add on. They will then try to get you to finance through them. Give them the chance to beat the rate you were pre-approved for--a lot of the time they will even if it's lower than they are publicly offering.
Good luck.
Be prepared. Have a downpayment or a trade. Know what you want and find the vehicle online. Do all negotiating over the phone or even better email so it's in writing. Get preapproved for financing through your bank or lowest rate you can find. Make sure the person you negotiated the sale with is available in-person and drive to dealership and buy the car. A common sales tactic is to then stick a different salesperson to you so they can pretend they know nothing of previous negotiation once they have you in-person. Talk to your original salesperson or no one at all. Do you really need to test drive 8 different vehicles? If something is wrong with it off the lot they will take care of it anyways. Say no to anything and everything they try to add on. They will then try to get you to finance through them. Give them the chance to beat the rate you were pre-approved for--a lot of the time they will even if it's lower than they are publicly offering.
Good luck.
This post was edited on 8/15/26 at 9:52 am
Posted on 8/15/26 at 9:54 am to Dicky
I always say buy pre-owned and get the warranty. You'll still save thousands vs new and not take that huge depreciation hit that all new cars suffer from. I own an independent lot and its a tough sled right now. I am transparent in everything I do, showing the shop bill on every car and the multi point inspection. Also provide free carfax on every car. I try to make it easy but customers make it tough.
Posted on 8/15/26 at 10:23 am to LSU alum wannabe
Tesla has the best buying process
Posted on 8/15/26 at 10:27 am to BogeyTX
quote:
Create a burner email and communicate with them through that email.
This is the correct answer. Make sure you EVERYTHING in writing, with ALL fees listed detailed out with the 17-digit VIN and their stock number listed.
Don't focus on the monthly payment, focus on the bottom line, aka out-the-door price. This where they can screw you big-time.
If they don't want to give a bottom-line price, tell them adios. Watch them change their tune really quick.
Beware of the slick clowns in F&I. This is where the real OT $$$ is made.
Get an interest rate from your bank/credit union before you even step onto the dealership lot.
Watch out for useless add-ons like VIN etching, nitrogen filled tires, market adjustments...
Sleazy dealerships will use the old 'stalling tactic' by keeping a person in the dealership/lot for hours on end. They do this to wear a person down, attempting get them to just give up and sign the deal, netting them thousands of EXTRA OT $$$.
Put them on a time limit. Say 10 minutes. IF you have good credit, the whole transaction shouldn't take more than an hour.
If they can't give you a bottom-line price, get up and leave. Don't say nothing, just leave.
Almost every time, the salesguy/gal is going to come running out the door after you. LOL
The best time to purchase is toward the end of the month, better yet toward the end of the year. Sales goals and quotas along with bonuses are trying to be made.
Never be afraid to walk out the door if they can't give you reasonable deal.
Above all, NEVER EVER sign an arbitration agreement. If these clowns say something like it's 'mandatory', ask the show where that is stated. I am willing to guess that they will studder and back off.
If they don't/won't to agree to not signing an arbitration agreement, walk out the door. Don't say nothing, just get up and leave.
You are not trying to be Mr. NiceGuy, here. You are protecting yourself from future nightmares should something bad/wrong happens.
This post was edited on 8/15/26 at 10:33 am
Posted on 8/15/26 at 10:32 am to LSU alum wannabe
By pre 2015. Mid 2000’s or earlier if possible.
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