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Started By
Message
Posted on 9/22/25 at 12:21 am to TheOcean
quote:
Easy. I don't buy new
This is the obvious correct answer, yet you have 15 downvotes. The OT never ceases to amaze me.
Posted on 9/22/25 at 1:26 am to dnm3305
I will never buy a new car. Cheaply made. Overly complicated. Expensive parts. Huge depreciation hit not to mention the insane prices. Older used models for me. Yall have fun paying notes and high insurance.
A new car is nice but F all that.
Only exception will be a Tesla with fully autonomous self driving.
A new car is nice but F all that.
Only exception will be a Tesla with fully autonomous self driving.
Posted on 9/22/25 at 3:24 am to beerJeep
quote:
Sleep with the salesman’s wife
That seems a bit drastic.
Posted on 9/22/25 at 7:02 am to Chastains
I buy a handful of trucks every year- for my company. Here’s what I have found that works best:
Go to Cars.com and sort by lowest price.
Some prices are absolutely unrealistic and are just there to get you to call.
But then you’ll see a baseline trend for the model you want.
Start calling or emailing (I like email or text actually) and ask for the dealer(s) best price that are within striking distance of you. Be upfront. “I have 5 dealers that I want to work with and I’m asking all of y’all for quotes”
You’ll find a local dealer can get pretty close to the Cars.com price.
If you are financing- get that sorted out BEFORE you go to the dealership.
Car dealers make money by adding as much to the interest rate as they can. The finance offer is a whole profit center for them. You do not need rim insurance.
If that doesn’t work in your favor, call the online dealers- they will be glad to FedEx the paperwork to you and have a local notary come to get everything signed at your home or office. Then they will just ship the car to you.
Modern cars are very reliable. You don’t need to see it in person before you buy. A big dealer- like those in Dallas- have zero interest in screwing you on a new car.
Go to Cars.com and sort by lowest price.
Some prices are absolutely unrealistic and are just there to get you to call.
But then you’ll see a baseline trend for the model you want.
Start calling or emailing (I like email or text actually) and ask for the dealer(s) best price that are within striking distance of you. Be upfront. “I have 5 dealers that I want to work with and I’m asking all of y’all for quotes”
You’ll find a local dealer can get pretty close to the Cars.com price.
If you are financing- get that sorted out BEFORE you go to the dealership.
Car dealers make money by adding as much to the interest rate as they can. The finance offer is a whole profit center for them. You do not need rim insurance.
If that doesn’t work in your favor, call the online dealers- they will be glad to FedEx the paperwork to you and have a local notary come to get everything signed at your home or office. Then they will just ship the car to you.
Modern cars are very reliable. You don’t need to see it in person before you buy. A big dealer- like those in Dallas- have zero interest in screwing you on a new car.
Posted on 9/22/25 at 7:14 am to subMOA
quote:
Go to Cars.com and sort by lowest price.
Some prices are absolutely unrealistic and are just there to get you to call.
But then you’ll see a baseline trend for the model you want.
Start calling or emailing (I like email or text actually) and ask for the dealer(s) best price that are within striking distance of you. Be upfront. “I have 5 dealers that I want to work with and I’m asking all of y’all for quotes”
You’ll find a local dealer can get pretty close to the Cars.com price
This is what I do.
We have too much information available to us now to resort to the old school time suck method of calling around, going sit down and jaw about price, walk out, go somewhere else, come back 2 days later, deal with 39356217648 phone calls, etc etc.
Circa 2017 I ended up buying a truck from somewhere in Virginia. Best deal for what I wanted. Paperwork came to my office with a return envelope included, 4 days later the truck got shoved off of a rolloff in my front yard. Easy easy.
Posted on 9/22/25 at 7:14 am to Chastains
I challenge the salesman to a bench press contest for pink slips
Posted on 9/22/25 at 7:39 am to UptownJoeBrown
quote:
I will never buy a new car. Cheaply made.
Vehicles last longer these days than they ever have in the past.
Yes it used to be better to buy used, but that depreciation hit is not as bad as it used to be and that’s especially true for trucks.
Posted on 9/22/25 at 7:52 am to subMOA
quote:
If you are financing- get that sorted out BEFORE you go to the dealership
Heavy on this. Have something that you like, secured in your favor.
Sometimes I will give them a chance to beat it, but a couple of times I have really liked what I got personally, so I just tell them Im good go ahead and send the paperwork.
I have done the last 2 by email only. I never stepped foot into the dealership for my truck. I used all email, one phone call and paid them $150 to deliver to my office. My wifes current car, I did all by email at local dealer and just had her go in to sign and pick up.
I usually start with "Do not call me. you can text, but do not call. My phone rings enough from my job". Automatic shitcan it they call. Most of them cant resist.
This post was edited on 9/22/25 at 7:54 am
Posted on 9/22/25 at 7:54 am to BigLSUNut
quote:
Dealer's Name
2025/26 Honda CR-V EX-L Bid Request Sheet
Buyer Name:
Buyer Location:
Purchase Type: Cash (no trade-in, no financing)
Veteran Status: Eligible for Honda Military Appreciation Offer
Vehicle Specifications
Item Cost ($) Dealer Notes / Clarifications
2025 or 2026Honda CR-V EX-L
Destination Fee
Built-In Navigation OEM or aftermarket—please specify
Body Side Molding Dealer-installed accessory
All-Season Floor Mats Dealer-installed accessory
Wireless Phone Charger ? Included OEM accessory
Dealer Fees & Add-Ons
Item Cost ($) Dealer Notes / Clarifications
Dealer Documentation Fee Negotiable—please itemize clearly
Other Dealer Add-Ons List protection packages, tint, etc.
Subtotal Before TTL
Tax, Title & License (TTL)
Item Cost ($) Dealer Notes / Clarifications
Sales Tax Based on Louisiana + local rates
Title Fee Standard Louisiana title fee
License Plate / Registration Approximate or actual quote
Any and all other costs
Final Summary
Item Cost ($) Dealer Notes / Clarifications
Total Out-the-Door Price Includes all taxes, fees, and add-ons
Dealer Instructions
Preferred color: Black or White but is negotiable
Please itemize each cost clearly.
Confirm whether accessories are OEM or aftermarket.
Provide a full Out-the-Door (OTD) price with no hidden fees.
Attach any supplemental quote sheets or disclosures.
Salesman response: "I'm happy for you or I'm sorry that happened"
Posted on 9/22/25 at 7:56 am to Chastains
We've gone through this twice in the last year. Dealers don't negotiate nearly as much as they used to. They may give you $500-$1000 off on a good day.
Posted on 9/22/25 at 7:59 am to dnm3305
He’s downvoted because it doesn’t answer the question, and no one really cares that y’all don’t buy new. If you don’t buy new cars, this thread isn’t for you.
Posted on 9/22/25 at 8:25 am to SulphursFinest
And all the guys touting used cars haven't shopped in awhile, I guess.
Outside of EVs, which can be had cheaply, clean, low-mile used stuff is expensive and typically lacks the extensive warranty of a new car, and finance rates are higher.
Ive done the finance and payoff in 30 days deal several times, never had a penalty.
If you're willing to take whatever, you can negotiate.
If you want a specific model/color/options, you are very limited.
Most dealers are fairly legit these days, with the notable exception of BMW in D'Iberville, straight-up trash.
Outside of EVs, which can be had cheaply, clean, low-mile used stuff is expensive and typically lacks the extensive warranty of a new car, and finance rates are higher.
Ive done the finance and payoff in 30 days deal several times, never had a penalty.
If you're willing to take whatever, you can negotiate.
If you want a specific model/color/options, you are very limited.
Most dealers are fairly legit these days, with the notable exception of BMW in D'Iberville, straight-up trash.
Posted on 9/22/25 at 8:28 am to Chastains
Shop online, email and call multiple dealerships to get their best price. The only time you need to be at the dealership is to possibly test drive it if you need to and sign the paperwork to drive it home (unless you're having it delivered). All of your shopping should be done and the price should be negotiated by the time you walk on-site.
Posted on 9/22/25 at 8:46 am to Chastains
I figure out two to three vehicles that fit my needs, and don't get married to any one of them. I do my research, figure out the models, and how much they should overall cost. I get comfortable with an amount I would spend on each before I test drive. Any vehicle that I favor is going to be the last one I test drive. I make sure to test drive all of them.
When I decide on a vehicle, I go in already having a potential loan in place, and will only use their loan company if they beat the rate or give me a better price that will over time best the rate I have. I do the monthly payment math based on the highest amount I will pay (including TTL), so frankly I don't care about the monthly payments. I don't talk that much, and will walk if the all in price is not at or lower than what I want to pay. I make sure to ask "Is there anything else we can do, I am still looking at some other cars and not necessarily in the biggest hurry to buy" when I think the negotiating has stalled. I also will not buy any additional things that don't make sense. Unlimited window repair on a Jeep Wrangler for 200 dollars, yep. Paying in advance for oil changes, no. Last, once I agree in principle, I take it to a third party mechanic for a last check.
I know I'm going to get slightly worse than someone that's a shrewd negotiator, I'm just not that talented, so I do all the leg work on my end to try to offset that as much as possible.
When I decide on a vehicle, I go in already having a potential loan in place, and will only use their loan company if they beat the rate or give me a better price that will over time best the rate I have. I do the monthly payment math based on the highest amount I will pay (including TTL), so frankly I don't care about the monthly payments. I don't talk that much, and will walk if the all in price is not at or lower than what I want to pay. I make sure to ask "Is there anything else we can do, I am still looking at some other cars and not necessarily in the biggest hurry to buy" when I think the negotiating has stalled. I also will not buy any additional things that don't make sense. Unlimited window repair on a Jeep Wrangler for 200 dollars, yep. Paying in advance for oil changes, no. Last, once I agree in principle, I take it to a third party mechanic for a last check.
I know I'm going to get slightly worse than someone that's a shrewd negotiator, I'm just not that talented, so I do all the leg work on my end to try to offset that as much as possible.
Posted on 9/22/25 at 8:48 am to billjamin
quote:
Hank Hill taught me that you pay sticker and not a penny more.
Easily the worst episode in the entire first run, and contradictory to so much we know about Hank. Hell he told Bobby to say he didn't like the truck in Chasing Bobby.
Posted on 9/22/25 at 8:53 am to Chastains
Buy an Altima before they quit making them!
Posted on 9/22/25 at 8:54 am to beaverfever
quote:
I always thought people made way too much of a fuss about it.
Same. I always found people who wear ~negotiating~ as a badge of honor to be insufferable.
It's fine to not want to pay a bunch of extra fees for BS you don't need, but otherwise I'm not going into a car dealership to haggle. I'm paying whatever was advertised as the price, or I'm not getting the car.
With my current car, I actually walked into the dealership with a check written for the exact amount they had told me it was going to be. The finance dude was so mad about it and made me pull up my bank app to prove the check wouldn't bounce. Then very angrily went through the whole spiel in his office where they try to sell you a bunch of extras, knowing I can't add any of that on because I have one lone check already written out to the total I was given.
Posted on 9/22/25 at 8:58 am to LouisianaLady
quote:
The finance dude was so mad about it
would love to have seen this. One of the worst parts of the experience. This guy sitting there pounding the keyboard, trying to get to "add this it's just $x a month" oh and "add that it's only $x a month". Taking that away from them would be a great feeling.
Posted on 9/22/25 at 9:02 am to LouisianaLady
quote:
walked into the dealership with a check written for the exact amount they had told me it was going to be
NIceeeeeeeeeeeeeee
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