- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
Posted on 1/26/18 at 10:09 am to Bluefin
Got 2 JL Audio 15’s with a punch 200 on each speaker. People can hear me down my block before they can even see me.
Posted on 1/26/18 at 10:10 am to X123F45
If anyone knows about this stuff, I have no interest in a "system," I would just like upgraded sound and to see if I can get improved bluetooth SQ. What should I look at?
Posted on 1/26/18 at 10:10 am to X123F45
I have hated the sound in my last two GM trucks, but too intimidated by the upgrade process. I handled the wife's Jeep just fine, and it sounds great.
Posted on 1/26/18 at 10:10 am to Bluefin
quote:
I put my speakers on the OUTSIDE of my car.
Amateur hour. This guy road aroudn atlanta replayign the SECCG and rose bowls for all to enjoy

Posted on 1/26/18 at 10:12 am to Pettifogger
quote:
bluetooth SQ
Depends on the Bluetooth receiver you currently have and if you're willing to solder the upgraded unit in. However, I would double check the OEM software to see if it even supports new Bluetooth.
Posted on 1/26/18 at 10:16 am to 50_Tiger
quote:
Depends on the Bluetooth receiver you currently have and if you're willing to solder the upgraded unit in. However, I would double check the OEM software to see if it even supports new Bluetooth.
Could I just upgrade to a third party receiver that supports carplay as well? Wouldn't that eliminate the concerns on the OEM software, or am I wrong?
Sony has some which look far more stock/bland than other makers, so that's what I'm referencing.
Posted on 1/26/18 at 10:17 am to X123F45
been kinda half arse pondering this subject as of late, getting a 1999 gmc 2500 "creeper van" to use for my crawfish business and already thinking about what I'm gonna need to do for decent sound in it. not like bass or anything, just good sound with a decent head unit etc. if I'm gonna be having to drive this thing around quite a bit. wally world? or is all that stuff pure shite?
Posted on 1/26/18 at 10:20 am to Pettifogger
I did because I had to, Tundra stereo system sucks arse...
Posted on 1/26/18 at 10:21 am to Pettifogger
quote:
Could I just upgrade to a third party receiver that supports carplay as well? Wouldn't that eliminate the concerns on the OEM software, or am I wrong?
Sony has some which look far more stock/bland than other makers, so that's what I'm referencing.
Nope, you are 100% right.
Posted on 1/26/18 at 10:28 am to X123F45
Yes. Always.
Factory systems almost always suck and you can upgrade for very little money. Even the shittiest aftermarket drivers and electronics are typically way better than OEM.
You have to remember that auto manufacturers are building tens of thousands to 1 million vehicles which requires the same number of units in audio components for contract with suppliers. Couple that with that fact that 9/10 people cant tell the difference between the sound quality on a clock radio and a $10k pair of MartinLogans and that 9/10 people these days are using shitty quality source material(128kbps MP3) and you can quickly see why factory audio systems are an easy place to cut costs.
The biggest upgrade one can make to a factory automotive audio system is to add or replace an existing OEM subwoofer for low end extension (or amplify existing) and/or upgrade the quality of their source material and/or its signal path.
In most OEM systems theres a complete lack of low-end frequency in the bandwidth which means missing notes. In most factory systems I cant resolve the bass guitar of kick drums at all. If you crank the bass adjustment it just gets muddy and you overextend the wimpy factory drivers.
All that said, sound quality in an automotive environment is mostly about isolating the listening area from encroaching noises. Vibrating panels, road noise, etc. A car is a terrible listening environment. I can barely hear to talk on my phone at highway speeds in my 7th gen Civic. One of the best ways to remedy this is to start with a well insulated vehicle like you get from high-end luxury brands. My factory system in my W204 Benz sounds nearly as good as my custom install in my 7th gen Civic. Thats all about how much tighter the Benz is and how much better the cabin is isolated from road noise.
Factory systems almost always suck and you can upgrade for very little money. Even the shittiest aftermarket drivers and electronics are typically way better than OEM.
You have to remember that auto manufacturers are building tens of thousands to 1 million vehicles which requires the same number of units in audio components for contract with suppliers. Couple that with that fact that 9/10 people cant tell the difference between the sound quality on a clock radio and a $10k pair of MartinLogans and that 9/10 people these days are using shitty quality source material(128kbps MP3) and you can quickly see why factory audio systems are an easy place to cut costs.
The biggest upgrade one can make to a factory automotive audio system is to add or replace an existing OEM subwoofer for low end extension (or amplify existing) and/or upgrade the quality of their source material and/or its signal path.
In most OEM systems theres a complete lack of low-end frequency in the bandwidth which means missing notes. In most factory systems I cant resolve the bass guitar of kick drums at all. If you crank the bass adjustment it just gets muddy and you overextend the wimpy factory drivers.
All that said, sound quality in an automotive environment is mostly about isolating the listening area from encroaching noises. Vibrating panels, road noise, etc. A car is a terrible listening environment. I can barely hear to talk on my phone at highway speeds in my 7th gen Civic. One of the best ways to remedy this is to start with a well insulated vehicle like you get from high-end luxury brands. My factory system in my W204 Benz sounds nearly as good as my custom install in my 7th gen Civic. Thats all about how much tighter the Benz is and how much better the cabin is isolated from road noise.
Posted on 1/26/18 at 10:29 am to X123F45
I upgraded the speakers but left the headunit. Sounds much better now. I was blessed with a pretty good receiver to begin with. Thank God for Crutchfield....
Posted on 1/26/18 at 10:33 am to Pettifogger
quote:
If anyone knows about this stuff, I have no interest in a "system," I would just like upgraded sound and to see if I can get improved bluetooth SQ. What should I look at?
Start by not using bluetooth.
Then, rip all your CDs to a lossless format.
Then, hardwire you music player(ex. iPod) to your stereo.
Enjoy your small investment and small return.
For more enjoyment, read my other post above.
Posted on 1/26/18 at 10:35 am to Maurice tiger fan
quote:
I did because I had to, Tundra stereo system sucks arse...
I recently inherited a 2006 Tundra Limited 4 door w 60,000 miles. It came with a factory CD/Cassette player w no aux input. Installed an Alpine head unit with BT, USB, Aux, Pandora, and XM radio. Replaced the four door speakers.
Posted on 1/26/18 at 10:36 am to X123F45
Nah, fam. My car came from the factory with a 500W amp driving a subwoofer in the trunk and 12 speakers in the passenger compartment. I'm good. I don't need more power or speakers.
The only thing I'd consider is upgrading the drivers if they degrade over time.
The only thing I'd consider is upgrading the drivers if they degrade over time.
This post was edited on 1/26/18 at 10:46 am
Posted on 1/26/18 at 10:39 am to X123F45
I did in the 90s, but factory systems are so much better these days that it's not really worth it.
Posted on 1/26/18 at 10:40 am to momentoftruth87
quote:
No. I like the screen in my Silverado.
You dont have to lose it.
This has been a problem for the aftermarket because so many OEM head units are so intimately tied to vehicle systems now. shite is too integrated these days. Most sound guys hate it because it limits your options, limits customization, makes DIY harder and puts a serious cap on your potential gains in audio resolution.
In the old days things were pretty standardized with DINS.
The good news is that there is a whole new industry cropping up for tie-ins to OEM systems that still allow for gains to be made. Mostly all in amplification(really tiny new class of amps for tight spaces since thats at a premium theses days), stealth sub enclosures and DSPs for head units.
TL;DR. You dont have to lose your factory display to upgrade your sound.
Posted on 1/26/18 at 10:47 am to X123F45
The 1996 toyota forerunner I drove as my first care already had an aftermarket receiver installed from the previous owner. It did not have an auxiliary port, so a few years ago, I bought a whole new radio that did.
Posted on 1/26/18 at 11:03 am to cajunbuck
quote:
wally world? or is all that stuff pure shite?
If you're going to go cheap,
Alpine speakers and pioneer head unit.
If you're willing to spend just a little, I built a very cheap system with hertz dieci 6.5 components, 6.5 coaxial in the rear, soundstream 520.4 amp.
Spend 10 bucks and buy the speaker baffles when you purchase. They go behind the speakers and greatly improve the sound.
I use sonicelectronix.com and Amazon for pricing. It nets the best price and warranty.
Posted on 1/26/18 at 11:06 am to Slagathor
Frick yeah!!
My punch 600 amp and 2 Kenwood 12s rattle my trunk on a daily
My punch 600 amp and 2 Kenwood 12s rattle my trunk on a daily
Popular
Back to top



0











