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Glacier National Park and Yellowstone Trip

Posted on 8/16/24 at 8:04 am
Posted by BlackPawnMartyr
Houston, TX
Member since Dec 2010
16167 posts
Posted on 8/16/24 at 8:04 am
After Labor Day going to fly into Glacier and stay in the park for 2 nights and 1 night in Columbia Fall visiting the park.

Then will drive towards Yellowstone where we will stay in a different city each night going from Red Lodge taking Beartooth RD. inside park to Gardiner for next hotel, then to West Yellowstone next night, and to Grant Village, to Jackson Hole. May do a hike in the Grand Tetons.

Just looking at suggestions along the way, asking for suggestions on any must dos, hikes or experiences that are underrated, non fine dining restaurants, great scenic spots.

All 4 of us are adults. My brother and law and I are capable hikers, my dad was but probably past his prime a good bit, and sister very limited in how far she will go to see something cool/scenic. At times I'm sure we will split apart to enjoy the hikes/locations in different ways. So we will likely carry our own bear spray etc.

I've looked up a few hikes of course but am starting to nail down an itinerary so will use the info I've seen on YT plus this board to come up with a loose game plan.

Also need clarification or double checking on the National Park Annual Pass i just bought. I see it acts as a car pass for 1 car and the 4 adults in the car. Does that mean that it just means all 4 people are good for 1 car pass but still need daily passes or does it clear them on a day pass as well. My dad went ahead and got a seniors pass as well.

(Edited OP to show new Route. Stayin inside the park now for 2 nights instsead of Whitefish, cutting out Cody trip, and adding a new route to Red Lodge from Whitefish so that we can take the Beartooth scenic road into Yellowstone of the first day of that visit.)


This post was edited on 8/19/24 at 6:35 am
Posted by r3lay3r
EBR
Member since Oct 2016
2415 posts
Posted on 8/16/24 at 8:38 am to
The pass covers the daily fees for the car and up to four occupants. Same for your father's senior pass.
Posted by Hermit Crab
Under the Sea
Member since Nov 2008
7390 posts
Posted on 8/16/24 at 8:48 am to
If they don't want to hike much you could do a float trip on the Yellowstone river (and probably other places along your route), I have done a fly fishing float from Gardiner area to emigrant, and its got some great scenery.

The guides I used were primarily fly fishing guides, but they had some people the same day that were there just for the boat ride. This is who I used LINK

when you are in the Gardiner area, watch out for the Church of the universal and Triumphant cult.

North of Gardiner for dinner there is the Old Saloon which has live music on the weekends, Chico Saloon at the Chico hot springs resort, or Sage Lodge which is a little fancier.
This post was edited on 8/16/24 at 8:52 am
Posted by texas tortilla
houston
Member since Dec 2015
4045 posts
Posted on 8/16/24 at 8:50 am to
if you go through butte, there is a really good mining museum on the campus of montana school of mines. you can even go down into a mine there.
Posted by ugasickem
Allatoona
Member since Nov 2010
12183 posts
Posted on 8/16/24 at 8:58 am to
Beartooth Highway is awesome.
Posted by baldona
Florida
Member since Feb 2016
23424 posts
Posted on 8/16/24 at 9:03 am to
Gadiner is nuts the elk come down into the town just like they do at Mamouth Hot Springs. I don't just mean the outskirts of town either, its not a big place but we stayed on the opposite side of the river from the park and there were elk all over in people's yards.

Bring binoculars, multiple if you can.

There's only 2-3 places really where grizzley and wolves are routinely seen and that's in the Haden Valleyand the other valley's, you want to try and get to them at sunrise or close as possible to see the most animals. Don't stop for bison they will be everywhere, I mean stop and don't hit them lol but don't stop for photos.

In Yellowstone give yourself 1.5x the time you think you'll need to drive somewhere. Its just always slower than you think between Bison traffic, car traffic, etc.

ETA: There's few places outside of Alaska in the US where you can truly feel the raw power of nature only 1-2 miles from the road like that area of the world.
This post was edited on 8/16/24 at 9:06 am
Posted by TulaneLSU
Member since Aug 2003
Member since Dec 2007
13616 posts
Posted on 8/16/24 at 9:48 am to
Friend,

What a wonderful trip this sounds like. We have done those three parks in the same trip twice, and each trip full of more grace than one would think possible. If you have the possibility to stay inside Glacier, I recommend it more strongly than anything else in this missive. We love the lodge at Many, and late reservations are always possible. The hike to Grinnell Glacier is easy from your room, and if you said that were the best hike in Glacier, I would not argue with you. The Highline Trail might be the most popular Glacier route, and for good reason. The hike to Iceberg Lake is pretty easy and may be a good hike if you only have three hours. Do not miss out on Two Medicine either – it is the least busy part of the park and has several wonderful, including the Mount Henry Trail, which gives a fabulous view eastward to the plains. What a contrast!

Staying at Many allows you to drive our preferred route from Glacier through Augusta, which hosts the oldest and one of the best rodeos in Montana in June. That route also goes through Wolf Creek, which has excellent fishing, and you can also do a cruise to Mann Gulch, site of the terrible fire jumper tragedy. That puts you near Helena, which honestly, is one of the least impressive capital cities in America, even worse than Baton Rouge. From there both Bozeman and Livingston, two of the three best cities in Montana are not far. You can visit both of these cities even if you take the western drive through Missoula as well, so long as you are planning on entering Yellowstone through Gardiner, which also has a good rodeo in June. If you are there in the late summer, you must go fly fishing. Eric Adams out of Livingston is one of the best guides, but Montana is home to excellent guides in many parts. We love fly fishing in August and early September if we are there then.

If you are coming from the west side of Glacier, you will have more traffic, but more mountainous views. We prefer the solitude of the eastern drive, but if your plan is such, we enjoy spending a few hours in Missoula. Mount Sentinel and Mount Jumbo are both easy and pleasant hikes on the eastern edge of town. The University of Montana is lovely and has several decent museums. Depending on the time of year,

Butte is a disgusting place. The oldest Chinese restaurant in America is there and I do not recommend it. There are some good Lewis and Clark landmarks on this journey. Three Forks might be the best.

Mother is calling me for a repair, so I will have to return to this great topic later. But I will say that the recommendation to do the Beartooth Highway is a good one.


Yours,
TulaneLSU
Posted by nctiger71
North Carolina
Member since Oct 2017
1414 posts
Posted on 8/16/24 at 2:03 pm to
quote:

May 24 through September 8 vehicle reservations are required for the west side of Going-to-the-Sun Road and North Fork from 6 am to 3 pm.

July 1 through September 8 vehicle reservations are required for Many Glacier from 6 am to 3 pm.

Last year you needed a vehicle reservation if entering GTTS Road from the east or west. They changed it this year so you don’t need one if you enter from the east; at St Mary.

You also don’t need one if you book an activity such as a boat ride.

I would consider staying two nights on the east side at St Mary or Many Glacier Lodge if you can get a room. It is 50 miles from the west side to the east side and then Many (north) & Two Medicine (south) are not quick trips from there. And then you have to drive back to Whitefish.
Posted by BlackPawnMartyr
Houston, TX
Member since Dec 2010
16167 posts
Posted on 8/16/24 at 3:48 pm to
Is going to Cody a sort of waste of time. Seems like so much of the park is either in the North or West. Cody has some museums but maybe time would be more efficiently spent spending 2 nights in Gardiner, MT then heading on to the west side.

This post was edited on 8/16/24 at 3:49 pm
Posted by Y.A. Tittle
Member since Sep 2003
109734 posts
Posted on 8/16/24 at 3:55 pm to
quote:

If they don't want to hike much you could do a float trip on the Yellowstone river (and probably other places along your route), I have done a fly fishing float from Gardiner area to emigrant, and its got some great scenery.



Along the Snake River in Teton is good option for this as well.
Posted by AZBadgerFan
Scottsdale, AZ
Member since May 2013
1814 posts
Posted on 8/16/24 at 5:19 pm to
Damn, will be staying in Whitefish from Sept 4-10. Your National Parks Pass will get your group/car into the park but you will need a Vehicle Reservation Pass as well if you are coming in the west entrance (not sure about the east). If you enter the park before 6 am or after 3 pm no Vehicle Reservation Pass is needed. You also do not need a vehicle pass after Sept 9. You can also go only here- Vehicle Reservation Pass- at 7 pm and try to get a vehicle pass for the following day.

As far as hikes we are for sure doing the Highline Trail as well as Grinnell Glacier, Avalanche Lake and Hidden Lake. We are also renting motorboats on Lake McDonald and doing at least one boat tour and driving the Going to the Sun Road at least once, probably more. Can't wait.

Our accommodations: Scout Retreat on Whitefish Lake
This post was edited on 8/16/24 at 5:26 pm
Posted by Crow Pie
Neuro ICU - Tulane Med Center
Member since Feb 2010
27169 posts
Posted on 8/16/24 at 5:53 pm to
Glacier is simply stunning.

Posted by Big Scrub TX
Member since Dec 2013
38521 posts
Posted on 8/16/24 at 6:22 pm to
Artist Point at the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone is, quite simply, the greatest spot on earth. Set plenty of time aside to soak it in.
Posted by slinger1317
Northshore
Member since Sep 2005
6868 posts
Posted on 8/16/24 at 9:09 pm to
quote:

Is going to Cody a sort of waste of time


To me yes, Cody is out of the way and not a whole lot to see. You’ve got Yellowstone Glacier and the Tetons. Soak up as much of that as you can. It is an amazing place.
Posted by idontyield
Tunnel Trash
Member since Jun 2022
552 posts
Posted on 8/16/24 at 9:31 pm to
If you go up to Polebridge go to Bowman Lake. You can swim around it is a beautiful lake. Home Ranch Bottoms south of Polebridge is an awesome spot with live music, drinks and food.
Belton Chalet across from the Amtrak station is really good. We eat there at least twice each time we go to Glacier.

Hikes will be discussed but Scenic Point in Two Medicine is a slept on gem. It’s steep so will need to be in shape to do it but it’s just a walk.
Two Medicine Grill in East Glacier is good people with great pie.
Glacier is great but most of the rest of Montana is way overrated. The stuff by Bozeman is good but that and Glacier is it. Missoula sucks.
The drive to Cody from Yellowstone is beautiful but you can’t see it all on one trip. Bear Tooth Highway is a better drive so do that one instead.
Posted by Crow Pie
Neuro ICU - Tulane Med Center
Member since Feb 2010
27169 posts
Posted on 8/17/24 at 8:57 am to
quote:

If you go up to Polebridge go to Bowman Lake
Yes. Grabbing Huckleberry Bear Claw at Polebridge Mercantile and eating it at the shore of Bowman Lake is one of life better pleasures.
Posted by Diesel88
Wyoming
Member since Oct 2018
848 posts
Posted on 8/17/24 at 10:40 pm to
quote:

That puts you near Helena, which honestly, is one of the least impressive capital cities in America, even worse than Baton Rouge.


You lost me here. This is the first post from you I completely disagree on.

You could spend years in Butte and Helena and not experience everything they have to offer. That is beautiful country.
This post was edited on 8/17/24 at 10:43 pm
Posted by idontyield
Tunnel Trash
Member since Jun 2022
552 posts
Posted on 8/18/24 at 10:27 am to
quote:

spend years in Butte and Helena and not experience everything they have to offer.


I have been to both and see no reason to return, you are going to need to help us out and tell us what we need to see in both places.
Posted by Revelator
Member since Nov 2008
62009 posts
Posted on 8/18/24 at 1:04 pm to
quote:

Does that mean that it just means all 4 people are good for 1 car pass but still need daily passes or does it clear them on a day pass as well



Nope, the pass is good for all in the vehicle for the life of the pass. I have a senior lifetime pass and me and my passengers can get in for free to any National Park for life.
Posted by nctiger71
North Carolina
Member since Oct 2017
1414 posts
Posted on 8/18/24 at 3:22 pm to
quote:

Nope, the pass is good for all in the vehicle for the life of the pass. I have a senior lifetime pass and me and my passengers can get in for free to any National Park for life.
quote:

The Senior Pass admits the pass owner and passengers in a non-commercial vehicle at per-vehicle fee areas and pass owner + 3 adults, not to exceed 4 adults, where per-person fees are charged. (Children under 16 are always admitted free.)

Note: Photo identification will be requested to verify pass ownership.

I thought the pass just admitted 4 people. Did not know it included everyone in the vehicle if you are going to a location that charges by the vehicle. If it is a location that charges per person then it is limited to 4. That info is from the usgs.gov website.
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