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Message
1
Posted on 2/2/19 at 6:02 am to auggie
Sheeting walls won’t make walls squarer, but sheeting walls will hold the house square after installation.
Here is a little experiment anyone can easily do. Take four 2x4’s and nail or screw them together to make a square. Now make an exact copy of that square that is the same size. Sheet one with a piece of plywood, and leave other one with nothing. Now stand them up and push of the frames. Tell me which one is easier to rack.
Here is a little experiment anyone can easily do. Take four 2x4’s and nail or screw them together to make a square. Now make an exact copy of that square that is the same size. Sheet one with a piece of plywood, and leave other one with nothing. Now stand them up and push of the frames. Tell me which one is easier to rack.
Posted on 2/2/19 at 6:07 am to civiltiger07
I damn sure agree with you.
I may be missing your hint about soil migration or shift?
To tie stuff together sure never hurts, it's just a money question.
No matter what you do though, you aren't going to change that bottom.
I may be missing your hint about soil migration or shift?
To tie stuff together sure never hurts, it's just a money question.
No matter what you do though, you aren't going to change that bottom.
This post was edited on 2/2/19 at 6:33 am
Posted on 2/2/19 at 6:21 am to Chad504boy
quote:
Wonder how it affects Wifi signals throughout home
It might, but that's cheap to fix.
Posted on 2/2/19 at 7:18 am to poochie
None, waste of time and money.
Posted on 2/2/19 at 7:33 am to civiltiger07
quote:
Sheeting walls won’t make walls squarer, but sheeting walls will hold the house square after installation
If you need plywood on all interior walls to keep your house square you have hired the wrong contractor. It’s not going to help in a hurricane or a tornado nor is it a sound barrier. All windows, doors and cased opening will have to be custom built at an additional cost.
Add plenty of wood blocking where needed and for sound use sound batt insulation at all walls including interior walls and between joists if building 2 stories. If you want use 5/8” Sheetrock in lieu of 1/2” but even this will change nominal dimensions.
Posted on 2/2/19 at 7:51 am to poochie
It’s a bitch to finish the drywall placed over plywood.
Posted on 2/2/19 at 8:23 am to Capital Cajun
When I built 18 years ago, I solid sheeted all walls and glad I did. The house is quit, better insulated and I can hang anything anywhere I want with screws.
I haven't experienced one negative issue since moving in. For me it was worth the extra money.
If anyone is considering building a house google Doug Rye and architect in Arkansas. He has some info on building an energy efficient house. I used many of his suggestions and while doubling my living area I cut my energy bills in half.
I haven't experienced one negative issue since moving in. For me it was worth the extra money.
If anyone is considering building a house google Doug Rye and architect in Arkansas. He has some info on building an energy efficient house. I used many of his suggestions and while doubling my living area I cut my energy bills in half.
This post was edited on 2/2/19 at 8:30 am
Posted on 2/2/19 at 8:33 am to Martini
quote:
It’s not going to help in a hurricane or a tornado
There's no way that sheathing the interior won't make a house stronger. But it does seem like most wind failures occur to the roof so it may be futile to further re-enforce the walls.
Posted on 2/2/19 at 8:33 am to rodnreel
The r factor of 1” plywood is 1.25 and I’m sure you didn’t use 1” plywood. The insulation in the walls of your house probably has an r value of around 13 at least. The insulation provided by the plywood is insignificant.
This post was edited on 2/2/19 at 11:11 am
Posted on 2/2/19 at 12:05 pm to poochie
Did that for ours. No regrets. Think it adds 1 r value. Not a biggie but another positive.
Edit: Hadn’t read through thread and later saw r value was already covered.
Edit: Hadn’t read through thread and later saw r value was already covered.
This post was edited on 2/2/19 at 12:07 pm
Posted on 2/2/19 at 1:27 pm to poochie
Built my house in 1984. Used 1/2” plywood on roof, all walls inside and outside, and ceiling. Used 3/4 tongue and groove plywood for floor. Interior walls, ceiling have 3/8” sheetrock. Outside is redwood lap siding. House built on 4’ concrete pillars.
Living in close proximity to the Gulf decided to build this way for strength.
For insulation went with 2x6 exterior walls with R19 batt insulation. Underneath flooring has 1” Celatex 4x8 sheets nailed to the floor joists as recommended by then LP&L.
Anderson double pane windows.
Passed several hurricanes with no issues. Did have tree lean up against a box end once with minimal damage.
House is strong, but of course with the right storm, or God forbid a tornado that could all change in seconds.
Living in close proximity to the Gulf decided to build this way for strength.
For insulation went with 2x6 exterior walls with R19 batt insulation. Underneath flooring has 1” Celatex 4x8 sheets nailed to the floor joists as recommended by then LP&L.
Anderson double pane windows.
Passed several hurricanes with no issues. Did have tree lean up against a box end once with minimal damage.
House is strong, but of course with the right storm, or God forbid a tornado that could all change in seconds.
This post was edited on 2/2/19 at 1:35 pm
Posted on 2/2/19 at 2:20 pm to poochie
quote:
Stronger when factoring what? What’s it going to do that a non-SS house would?
They become shear walls.
Posted on 2/3/19 at 8:27 pm to poochie
Window and doors will all have to be special order bc od wider jamb size adding additional cost over just the sheathing. There are A few other issues will be created by doing this
Posted on 2/3/19 at 8:48 pm to poochie
quote:
talking about 1/2" plywood or OSB on all walls prior to installation of sheetrock.
I've been considering this myself.
House is currently paneling over center-match. I want to rip out all the paneling and replace with 1/4" sheetrock. House is too dark with all the paneling, but it is solid as a rock. You can't hear much going on in other rooms.
Posted on 2/3/19 at 9:04 pm to LongueCarabine
Use 3/8” in lieu of 1/4” if going over the tongue and groove. It finishes better.
Posted on 2/3/19 at 9:30 pm to poochie
Why would you do this?
Posted on 2/3/19 at 9:34 pm to LongueCarabine
If paneling is solid skim coat the paneling cracks with Sheetrock mud then texture and paint.
It’s way easier than removing it all then putting Sheetrock back up.
It’s way easier than removing it all then putting Sheetrock back up.
Posted on 2/4/19 at 2:25 am to eng08
quote:
If paneling is solid skim coat the paneling cracks with Sheetrock mud then texture and paint.
It’s way easier than removing it all then putting Sheetrock back up.
I've seen people do this. Initial results are good, but eventually the mud begins flaking off.
Posted on 2/4/19 at 2:27 am to Martini
quote:
Use 3/8” in lieu of 1/4” if going over the tongue and groove. It finishes better.
1/4" is about the same thickness as the paneling. Won't there be issues around door frame molding, etc?
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