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Hardwood Flooring Installation - Wide Plank
Posted on 3/11/19 at 9:48 am
Posted on 3/11/19 at 9:48 am
Well I don't have access to the fancy new H&G board so I guess this is going on the OT.
I'm installing 5" wide plank hardwood throughout the house. I've got a crawl space with plywood subfloor. Manufacturer does not have a great installation recommendation. The warranty says to install with a 15# felt underlay and nail down to plywood subs. However, the installation instructions say that on flooring wider than 4" you may bead glue in addition to nails (not you should glue; just that you have the option to). However, it says if you glue you cannot use a paper barrier underneath.
Anyone have experience with this? Should I nail/glue direct to subfloor with no barrier? Can you bypass gluing on 5" planks in favor of the barrier and not risk cupping?
3/4" oak, if that matters. Tongue and groove. Let me know if more info is needed.
Many thanks!
I'm installing 5" wide plank hardwood throughout the house. I've got a crawl space with plywood subfloor. Manufacturer does not have a great installation recommendation. The warranty says to install with a 15# felt underlay and nail down to plywood subs. However, the installation instructions say that on flooring wider than 4" you may bead glue in addition to nails (not you should glue; just that you have the option to). However, it says if you glue you cannot use a paper barrier underneath.
Anyone have experience with this? Should I nail/glue direct to subfloor with no barrier? Can you bypass gluing on 5" planks in favor of the barrier and not risk cupping?
3/4" oak, if that matters. Tongue and groove. Let me know if more info is needed.
Many thanks!
This post was edited on 3/11/19 at 9:50 am
Posted on 3/11/19 at 9:53 am to Fe_Mike
quote:
I've got a crawl space with plywood subfloor.
You are putting hardwood flooring in a crawl space? Why?
Posted on 3/11/19 at 9:58 am to Fe_Mike
Really depends on how flat your subfloor is for bead gluing on a nail down installation and there is more than just felt for the underlayment. I've always used felt over wood subfloor but I'm about to do a large room in my house and I'm researching other products now.
Posted on 3/11/19 at 9:59 am to jbgleason
quote:
You are putting hardwood flooring in a crawl space? Why?
Trying to keep up with the OT ballers.
Posted on 3/11/19 at 10:05 am to Fe_Mike
I have 6” tounge and groove that’s nailed down only. Into 3/4” plywood. 15# felt paper in between the flooring and the plywood.
You don’t need to glue it. Just make sure you leave 3/4” gap for expansion at your walls.
Also make sure you leave the flooring in your house and climate controlled for 5-7 days before installing.
You don’t need to glue it. Just make sure you leave 3/4” gap for expansion at your walls.
Also make sure you leave the flooring in your house and climate controlled for 5-7 days before installing.
This post was edited on 3/11/19 at 10:07 am
Posted on 3/11/19 at 10:57 am to Fe_Mike
Posted on 3/11/19 at 11:12 am to Fe_Mike
You definitely need a vapor barrier of some sort. If not all of your 5 inch wide Oak is going to be canoe shaped firewood soon.
Posted on 3/11/19 at 11:26 am to FinkyStinger
two layers of #15 roofing felt criss-crossed... then foam underlayment, then wood nailed...
Posted on 3/11/19 at 12:31 pm to Fe_Mike
The thought is tension across the width of 4”+ by mechanical fasteners COULD cause cupping. As a rule we ALWAYS full spread glue and cleat/staple to avoid liability. If moisture is certainly an issue, Wakol (Loba) PU 225 is a 2 part poly resin moisture resistant adhesive.
If any of this scares you, there are some great looking solid core wide LVT planks that are 100% water proof.
If any of this scares you, there are some great looking solid core wide LVT planks that are 100% water proof.
Posted on 3/11/19 at 10:31 pm to Fe_Mike
I use a layer of visqueen (moisture barrier) and then 15# or 30# felt for nail down flooring for a conventional installation. Leave a gap at end against wall ~ 3/4" to allow for expansion.
The bigger question is why are you installing hardwood in a crawl space?
The bigger question is why are you installing hardwood in a crawl space?
This post was edited on 3/11/19 at 10:32 pm
Posted on 3/12/19 at 6:34 am to Haughtonboy
(no message)
This post was edited on 2/8/25 at 8:35 am
Posted on 3/12/19 at 7:02 am to Haughtonboy
quote:
If any of this scares you, there are some great looking solid core wide LVT planks that are 100% water proof.
Coretec
These guys invented and patented the category
This post was edited on 3/12/19 at 7:03 am
Posted on 3/12/19 at 7:10 am to Fe_Mike
Bigger than 4.25 you have to glue and screw(nail). There’s a reason they won’t warranty planks that size. They likely still move and cup first 2-3 years but they should settle & you can come back with filler on any separation that bothers you. Try to keep humidity levels between 45-50 in summer and above 40 in winter.
Posted on 3/12/19 at 7:14 am to Fe_Mike
quote:
15# felt
Dude, that's not the preferred nomenclature. it is now referred to as #15 or #30, number, not pounds.
also, i would worry more about squeaking than cupping, so i would go with felt. plus, i doubt glue would have any deterrent effect on cupping. reducing moisture is the cure. people in capital heights are spraying 1" of closed cell foam on the bottom of the floor to fight moisture intrusion/cupping.
Posted on 3/12/19 at 7:18 am to piratedude
[quote i would worry more about squeaking than cupping, so i would go with felt. plus, i doubt glue would have any deterrent effect on cupping. reducing moisture is the cure. people in capital heights are spraying 1" of closed cell foam on the bottom of the floor to fight moisture intrusion/cupping.
[/quote]
We do this as well as closed conditioned crawl spaces on everything. Open crawl is an outdated premise.
[/quote]
We do this as well as closed conditioned crawl spaces on everything. Open crawl is an outdated premise.
Posted on 3/12/19 at 7:43 am to piratedude
quote:
people in capital heights are spraying 1" of closed cell foam on the bottom of the floor to fight moisture intrusion/cupping.
Do you know what company that does this?
Posted on 3/12/19 at 7:51 am to ItNeverRains
quote:
closed conditioned crawl spaces on everything. Open crawl is an outdated premise.
I did this on my 50's era house. Best update I've done. A lot of not fun work crawling around for weeks though. shite I still have a few things I need to finish under there....
Posted on 3/12/19 at 7:54 am to Chuker
Why are you guys confused about crawl spaces?
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