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Hardwood Flooring Installation - Wide Plank

Posted on 3/11/19 at 9:48 am
Posted by Fe_Mike
Member since Jul 2015
3856 posts
Posted on 3/11/19 at 9:48 am
Well I don't have access to the fancy new H&G board so I guess this is going on the OT.

I'm installing 5" wide plank hardwood throughout the house. I've got a crawl space with plywood subfloor. Manufacturer does not have a great installation recommendation. The warranty says to install with a 15# felt underlay and nail down to plywood subs. However, the installation instructions say that on flooring wider than 4" you may bead glue in addition to nails (not you should glue; just that you have the option to). However, it says if you glue you cannot use a paper barrier underneath.

Anyone have experience with this? Should I nail/glue direct to subfloor with no barrier? Can you bypass gluing on 5" planks in favor of the barrier and not risk cupping?

3/4" oak, if that matters. Tongue and groove. Let me know if more info is needed.

Many thanks!
This post was edited on 3/11/19 at 9:50 am
Posted by jbgleason
Bailed out of BTR to God's Country
Member since Mar 2012
20209 posts
Posted on 3/11/19 at 9:53 am to
quote:

I've got a crawl space with plywood subfloor.


You are putting hardwood flooring in a crawl space? Why?
Posted by Clames
Member since Oct 2010
19642 posts
Posted on 3/11/19 at 9:58 am to
Really depends on how flat your subfloor is for bead gluing on a nail down installation and there is more than just felt for the underlayment. I've always used felt over wood subfloor but I'm about to do a large room in my house and I'm researching other products now.
Posted by Fe_Mike
Member since Jul 2015
3856 posts
Posted on 3/11/19 at 9:59 am to
quote:

You are putting hardwood flooring in a crawl space? Why?


Trying to keep up with the OT ballers.
Posted by Golfer
Member since Nov 2005
75052 posts
Posted on 3/11/19 at 10:05 am to
I have 6” tounge and groove that’s nailed down only. Into 3/4” plywood. 15# felt paper in between the flooring and the plywood.

You don’t need to glue it. Just make sure you leave 3/4” gap for expansion at your walls.

Also make sure you leave the flooring in your house and climate controlled for 5-7 days before installing.
This post was edited on 3/11/19 at 10:07 am
Posted by cubsfan5150
NWA
Member since Nov 2007
18609 posts
Posted on 3/11/19 at 10:06 am to
Use the felt
Posted by weadjust
Member since Aug 2012
15764 posts
Posted on 3/11/19 at 10:57 am to
I would install like this how to youtube video

Youtube

Posted by FinkyStinger
Georgia
Member since Jan 2009
2205 posts
Posted on 3/11/19 at 11:12 am to
You definitely need a vapor barrier of some sort. If not all of your 5 inch wide Oak is going to be canoe shaped firewood soon.
Posted by natsoundup
Simpsonville, SC, Jupiter, FL,
Member since May 2013
367 posts
Posted on 3/11/19 at 11:26 am to
two layers of #15 roofing felt criss-crossed... then foam underlayment, then wood nailed...
Posted by Haughtonboy
kansas
Member since Nov 2011
1753 posts
Posted on 3/11/19 at 12:31 pm to
The thought is tension across the width of 4”+ by mechanical fasteners COULD cause cupping. As a rule we ALWAYS full spread glue and cleat/staple to avoid liability. If moisture is certainly an issue, Wakol (Loba) PU 225 is a 2 part poly resin moisture resistant adhesive.

If any of this scares you, there are some great looking solid core wide LVT planks that are 100% water proof.
Posted by lshuge
Member since Sep 2017
971 posts
Posted on 3/11/19 at 10:31 pm to
I use a layer of visqueen (moisture barrier) and then 15# or 30# felt for nail down flooring for a conventional installation. Leave a gap at end against wall ~ 3/4" to allow for expansion.

The bigger question is why are you installing hardwood in a crawl space?

This post was edited on 3/11/19 at 10:32 pm
Posted by Armymann50
Playing with my
Member since Sep 2011
22413 posts
Posted on 3/12/19 at 5:01 am to
Geaux with concrete
Posted by lnomm34
Louisiana
Member since Oct 2009
12702 posts
Posted on 3/12/19 at 6:34 am to
(no message)
This post was edited on 2/8/25 at 8:35 am
Posted by Jaydeaux
Covington
Member since May 2005
19644 posts
Posted on 3/12/19 at 7:02 am to
quote:

If any of this scares you, there are some great looking solid core wide LVT planks that are 100% water proof.

Coretec
These guys invented and patented the category
This post was edited on 3/12/19 at 7:03 am
Posted by ItNeverRains
Offugeaux
Member since Oct 2007
28166 posts
Posted on 3/12/19 at 7:10 am to
Bigger than 4.25 you have to glue and screw(nail). There’s a reason they won’t warranty planks that size. They likely still move and cup first 2-3 years but they should settle & you can come back with filler on any separation that bothers you. Try to keep humidity levels between 45-50 in summer and above 40 in winter.
Posted by piratedude
baton rouge
Member since Oct 2009
2806 posts
Posted on 3/12/19 at 7:14 am to
quote:

15# felt


Dude, that's not the preferred nomenclature. it is now referred to as #15 or #30, number, not pounds.

also, i would worry more about squeaking than cupping, so i would go with felt. plus, i doubt glue would have any deterrent effect on cupping. reducing moisture is the cure. people in capital heights are spraying 1" of closed cell foam on the bottom of the floor to fight moisture intrusion/cupping.
Posted by ItNeverRains
Offugeaux
Member since Oct 2007
28166 posts
Posted on 3/12/19 at 7:18 am to
[quote i would worry more about squeaking than cupping, so i would go with felt. plus, i doubt glue would have any deterrent effect on cupping. reducing moisture is the cure. people in capital heights are spraying 1" of closed cell foam on the bottom of the floor to fight moisture intrusion/cupping.
[/quote]

We do this as well as closed conditioned crawl spaces on everything. Open crawl is an outdated premise.
Posted by fishfighter
RIP
Member since Apr 2008
40026 posts
Posted on 3/12/19 at 7:43 am to
quote:

people in capital heights are spraying 1" of closed cell foam on the bottom of the floor to fight moisture intrusion/cupping.


Do you know what company that does this?
Posted by Chuker
St George, Louisiana
Member since Nov 2015
7544 posts
Posted on 3/12/19 at 7:51 am to
quote:

closed conditioned crawl spaces on everything. Open crawl is an outdated premise.


I did this on my 50's era house. Best update I've done. A lot of not fun work crawling around for weeks though. shite I still have a few things I need to finish under there....
Posted by AUCE05
Member since Dec 2009
45389 posts
Posted on 3/12/19 at 7:54 am to
Why are you guys confused about crawl spaces?
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