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re: Deadly climbing season in the Himalayas

Posted on 5/19/19 at 10:25 pm to
Posted by EarlyCuyler3
Appalachia
Member since Nov 2017
27290 posts
Posted on 5/19/19 at 10:25 pm to
I don't want to get shot in the process though.
Posted by Obtuse1
Westside Bodymore Yo
Member since Sep 2016
30451 posts
Posted on 5/19/19 at 10:41 pm to
quote:

and no one has to risk their lives to drag your frozen bodies off a mountain


Mountaineers have a very different set of ethics to your average person. No one is EXPECTED to provide aid and certainly, no one expects to have their dead body removed, this is why there are a couple of hundred dead bodies on Everest. Certain bodies like "green boots" are used as position references while on Everest. The paid climbing guides are really in an odd ethical quandary and often the reason they die (Hall, Harris, and Fischer in 96 for example). The differing perception of climbing ethics is why Anatoli Boukreev received such condemnation outside the climbing community even when he went above and beyond what most any mountaineer would do in '96.

Nobody truly expects to die climbing but few disregard the odds completely, for some the sense of adventure, exhilaration, and accomplishment are worth the risks. It is hard to describe to a sane person, weeks of beating your body down to the point of feeling like a single step is the most difficult thing you have done in your life to potentially stand on the summit for 30-45 minutes only makes sense to those that are wired in that unusual way.
Posted by StraightCashHomey21
Aberdeen,NC
Member since Jul 2009
126745 posts
Posted on 5/19/19 at 10:46 pm to
fricking white people
Posted by HoldemPig
Straight outta Compton
Member since Dec 2010
61 posts
Posted on 5/20/19 at 12:12 am to
I’ve been to basecamp and it’s amazing. Want to summit, but I agree, it’s selfish as frick until the kids leave the house. I’ve got 4 years!
Posted by LSUintheNW
At your mom’s house
Member since Aug 2009
36972 posts
Posted on 5/20/19 at 12:46 am to
quote:

Ive climbed 14000’ mountains


Starting at 12k is for pussies.

Posted by Coater
Madison, MS
Member since Jun 2005
33571 posts
Posted on 5/20/19 at 3:22 am to
I’ve done massive and elbert
Posted by theantiquetiger
Paid Premium Member Plus
Member since Feb 2005
20072 posts
Posted on 5/20/19 at 6:32 am to
quote:

That's awful though. One day I want to trek to Everest just to see it. Seems like you can even fathom how big that sumbitch is unless you're standing beneath it.


frick that!!! That’s a ten day trek. I just want to do the over night (2-day) trek and get within eye sight of it.

Or, for about $1500, you can take a helicopter to basecamp, but you can only stay for about 20 minutes due to altitude sickness
Posted by Diver Diva
Member since Apr 2019
386 posts
Posted on 5/20/19 at 8:28 am to
quote:

I spent 17 years as an active mountaineer and summited 3 of the 8000m peaks including Everest.

traffic jams at the choke points on the major climbs. Sitting for two hours in the death zone waiting for your climb through a choke point is very bad juju.


Wow. That's impressive. I bet you have some awesome photos.

I read a book called "No Way Down" about the big accident they had on K2 several years ago, and it was exactly as you said: too many climbers were waiting in a place called (appropriately) the "Bottleneck".

I also read another book called "Annapurna: South Face". From what I understand Annapurna is even more dangerous than K2.

Good beach reading material, but not something I would try LOL. Congrats on your achievements, definitely something to be proud of.
Posted by kywildcatfanone
Wildcat Country!
Member since Oct 2012
139383 posts
Posted on 5/20/19 at 8:29 am to
Just darwin doing darwin things. Nothing to see here.
Posted by deltaland
Member since Mar 2011
102663 posts
Posted on 5/20/19 at 8:44 am to
quote:

Also, the ones that do it without supplemental oxygen are nuts.


I smoked a pack of cowboy killers at the summit of Everest when I reached it.
Posted by EarlyCuyler3
Appalachia
Member since Nov 2017
27290 posts
Posted on 5/20/19 at 9:05 am to
That's just cheating. You at least have to hike up the same trail the summit guys are using. Some places offer a trip up the icefall and some others let you explore the south col (IIRC.) That requires more experience and demonstration of ice skills though.
Posted by PortHudsonPlaya
Houston
Member since Jul 2017
3170 posts
Posted on 5/20/19 at 9:11 am to
I’ve climbed Everest twice. Truly an unbelievable experience.
Posted by tiggerthetooth
Big Momma's House
Member since Oct 2010
64356 posts
Posted on 5/20/19 at 9:14 am to
quote:

I’ve climbed Everest twice. Truly an unbelievable experience.


Is that before or after you ran a 4.15 40yd dash?
Posted by Kentucker
Rabbit Hash, KY
Member since Apr 2013
20055 posts
Posted on 5/20/19 at 9:18 am to
I wouldn’t want to become a guidepost for other climbers, like this man who has been there since1924. Imma take Mt. Everest off my bucket list now.

Posted by tiggerthetooth
Big Momma's House
Member since Oct 2010
64356 posts
Posted on 5/20/19 at 9:29 am to
quote:

Stupid ego trip?



Yes. Absolutely. Why else do you think it's become a haven for wealthy people? Paying a guide isnt cheap.


quote:

We climb because it’s our passion. It’s a constant love affair with the mental and physical struggle of reaching the top and the euphoric feeling you get by accomplishing such a great goal. It’s impossible for someone who’s not into it to understand.



Is it impossible for someone to understand what it's like to struggle to do something and accomplish the goal of succeeding?

Can a doctor who struggles through med school to eventually become a successful doctor identify with your struggle?

quote:

Stupid ego trip. I love ignorance.


No one cares or benefits from your climbing these peaks but you. When other people count on your living, like family, friends, patients, etc. I would think a wise person would find fulfillment in caring for people everyday and understand risking their life needlessly given what they contribute to society, is stupid. Maybe that's not your personality though.


You may think I'm ignorant of climbing, but I think you're ignorant of what ultimately matters.
Posted by Obtuse1
Westside Bodymore Yo
Member since Sep 2016
30451 posts
Posted on 5/20/19 at 9:31 am to
quote:

I smoked a pack of cowboy killers at the summit of Everest when I reached it.


This reminded me of one of my climbing heroes Jim Bridwell who dies at 73 last year. He was one of the original American hard men that put up some of the most famous routes in Yosemite Valley in the 70s, including the Nose route up El Cap. Jim was known for doing hard technical routes in the high mountains without supplemental Os and once on Everest when the wind was howling he kept yanking on his rope and yelling to his partner below but his partner couldn't understand him. When his partner got up to the anchor point he ask Jim what he wanted and Jim replied another pack of smokes. His trademark was smoking unfiltered Camels and had run out on the pitch. One of his Everest expeditions was sponsered by Camel.

Bridwell in 75 after the first ascent of the Nose, he is in the middle with Billy Westbay on the left and John Long on the right.



Just prior to his death





Posted by Tbobby
Member since Dec 2006
4358 posts
Posted on 5/20/19 at 9:35 am to
Mallory's photo is haunting
Posted by Obtuse1
Westside Bodymore Yo
Member since Sep 2016
30451 posts
Posted on 5/20/19 at 9:39 am to
quote:

Some places offer a trip up the icefall


I'll be damned if I am going through the Khumbu Icefall if it isn't part of going higher. Just the sounds that place makes will haunt your dreams. If the thought of a refrigerator-sized block of ice dropping out of nowhere on your head isn't enough to pucker you up the ladder crossing in crampons over 200'+ crevasses should do the trick.

Posted by RogerTheShrubber
Juneau, AK
Member since Jan 2009
299196 posts
Posted on 5/20/19 at 9:48 am to
quote:

Yes. Absolutely. Why else do you think it's become a haven for wealthy people? Paying a guide isnt cheap.


I have a lot of respect for guys who pioneer routes and make first summits.

While it's not an amazing feat today to climb Everest it's still physically grueling. I understand why some people want to test themselves.

The first know ascent of Denalis North Summit was a drunken bar bet

quote:

In 1910, four area locals – Tom Lloyd, Peter Anderson, Billy Taylor, and Charles McGonagall – known as the Sourdough Expedition, attempted to climb Denali despite a lack of climbing experience. The group spent approximately three months on the mountain. Their purported summit ascent day included carrying a bag of doughnuts each, a thermos of hot chocolate, and a 14-foot (4.2 m) spruce pole
Posted by wutangfinancial
Treasure Valley
Member since Sep 2015
11958 posts
Posted on 5/20/19 at 9:56 am to
Highest I've climbed was Mt. Borah in Sun Valley, Idaho. I believe it's 12,667 ft. I drove a golf ball off of the summit. Would never make an ascent like that again, but I'm glad I can say I was at the highest point in Idaho.
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