Obtuse1

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Show me a picture of these percentages please! I need to see where I fit in.

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Video was in my feed yesterday:

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sight unseen what makes you believe the over current protection cam be reduced from 15a to 20a to make room to add a two pole 60a?

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Technically, you could reduce the breaker from 20A to 15A on a 12 AWG wired branch circuit as long as it is wired with typical duplex 15A receptacles and not a dedicated circuit or actual 20A receptacles. There is no reason to do that though, because 20A 120V tandem breakers are made for every CTL-compliant panel I am aware of.

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And honestly that probably still wouldn’t be below the CTL although close

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I assume CTL means total connected load, I usually think of CTL as circuit total limitation which prevents the use of tandem breakers in some older panals. If so I have never seen a full-house home panel where the total connected load was not significantly greater than the ampacity of the panel. I have right around 700A of protected circuits in my 400A load center however the actual connected load is less. There is no way I would ever trip the main unless it actually set out to do it. In any case, the wiring is still protected by the individual breakers and the main breaker protecting the panel busses. OP will still have proper over-protection for all the wiring and the buss, the only risk is the main tripping, but I think that is highly unlikely.

The only time I see the OP's main breaker tripping in anything like normal use is if all the dedicated circuits except the two AC units are running and both AC units kick on at the EXACT same time and the voltage drop drags the compressor inrush current out long enough to step outside the main breaker's TCC. Even that is a massive stretch. Now if he tries to trip it he could having all the dedicated circuits running and he plugs in a couple of vacuums and 3-4 1800w hair dryers but every bit of cable would still have proper overprotection.

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Ok, so I called the shop that we always get to do our work thinking I would get someone that is familiar with what I have going on. He told me he will free up a couple of spots, put a tandem breaker in and hard wire the charger to the wall a couple of feet from that box, which is where I wanted it to be. He did confirm it will be a 60A circuit. Basically told me with what runs on that panel it will not be a problem.

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:cheers:

I live much of my life squarely in do as I say not as I do land but honestly that is exactly what I would have done in my own house with my own hands. I think absolute worst case you would be pulling just over 100A maybe 105 and that would be both A/C units running, the charger on full tilt, the on demand water heater running, a few lights and what I assume is a bathroom vent/heater combo on the 20A circuit at the top. I assume that is what is on it because they require a 20A branch circuit by code. Despite the code almost all I have seen are between 1200 and 1500w of heat so under 13A draw.

You have a good sparky because I guarantee some would want to damn near rewire your house to do what you want, instead, this is the quickest, easiest, and cheapest option. The bonus is very little drywall repair plus it is in your garage and unless you are anal about it most garages only have a level 2 finish aka cheap but hardy.

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I don’t but I’m sure LSUs attorneys do. Or they wouldn’t go this route

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LOL It is 100% guaranteed if they were actually building a case for a cause firing the timeline would have been different. They fired him and then over time they started to ruminate on the idea of firing him for cause. That plan was simply not in the works prior to the TAMA loss.

Are you talking about one with pedals that looks basically like a MX bike or a pedal-less actual MX bike like the ones KTM makes? The KTM versions are badass but actually cost slightly more than their equivalent gas bikes. I have a nephew that has a adult sized KTM and basically the 50cc electric equivalent for his son. They are a huge MX family and use them so they can ride in their (large) backyard without disturbing the neighbors. They have a garage full of gas 2 and 4 strokes for away from home.

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On the 2nd picture you have empty breakers. Cheapest way would be for your electrician to run a wire from that panel to another subpanel in your garage where you can feed you charger.

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Space on the panels is irrelevant since even on the garage panel that is full currently all you have to do is replace 4 of the 120v breakers with 2 tandem breakers which opens enough space for the 240v breaker. Given the location that would be a LOT cheaper than pulling from the indoor panel.

THE question is where in his system does he have the code acceptable ability to add 60A of draw. If there is more than one place then which is the cheapest. We don't even know if his SEC has the code allowable ampacity to add the extra draw.

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Who are you planning to hire for other than the going style contract for a top-notch prospective coach?

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This is the same problem companies have hiring CEOs. Once the market is set, nobody highly qualified is willing to take the job without massive guaranteed money. Look at the belle of the ball LK. Why would he take a highly incentivized K when he is sitting on a huge guaranteed money K and another program would be happy to go the big guaranteed route? If you want to go down the Landry road, LSU will not get the big names; they will have to take a chance on an up-and-comer willing to bet on themselves.

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He actually might as EV chargers pull power for longer periods than typical appliance on a NEMA 14-50 receptical and if he wants to charge at the max rate. That's why EV 14-50 are built differently and cost quite a bit more than the typical 14-50 you might have for a range or double oven. Before others caught up, Hubbell 9450 recepticals were going for $100+ as they were the only "heavy duty" 14-50 option.

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Having never dealt with an EV charger wiring, isn't it possible to just hardwire them and avoid the plug?

The other issue is he wants a 11.5kw charger by NEC it has to be a 60A circuit. 11,500W/240V=48A 48Ax1.25=60A due to the charger being considered a continuous load device.

I am going to tap out of this since it is all theoretical , evidenced by the fact the posts from people that know a bit about residential wiring read like a long logic decision tree: if this then this, if that then that. This is a relatively complex electrical system for a single family dwelling due to the addition and we have no idea what cables are in the walls and how everything is tied in. Hell, we don't even know the size of the service to the house or even the AHJ!

I think there is a non-zero chance the panel in the garage can be used if it can in fact take a 125A main breaker as someone suggested AND the ampacity of the wire used to supply it is high enough AND where it is tied in can handle the extra 25A.

The reality is an electrician is likely not going to take the time to figure out all of this for a bid. They are simply going to figure the cost of a 60A circuit on a home run to the place that is clear they can steal the current from which is likely not the cheapest way it can be done. Then again they might eyeball that 100A protected panel and toss in some tandem breakers on the 120V circuits and throw the 60A circuit in. That might work or it might be crazy I can't do the math without more info most of which the OP can't provide. I would stress getting more than one quote though and with a good understanding of what each one's scope of the job is.


Good luck BP! Update us after your consult if you have the time, I am curious what your electricians approach is.

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The 50-year mortgage is a good idea actually

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A 50 year mortgage can be a very good thing if used correctly. The problem is most people don't know how to use debt correctly and even more people don't have the financial safety net to safely use it.

If it comes to pass, economically savvy and stable people will use them to build more wealth. However, they will increase the cost of homes. No matter how enticing it looks to the square footage or zip code challenged people it will result in the "rich" getting richer and the poor getting poorer.

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The weather station on my property consistently reads 5 degrees cooler than what twc app claims it is

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But is it NIST traceable?