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Posted on 9/21/15 at 3:07 am to N2cars
quote:
Oversizing is as bad as undersizing.
This is important! If the unit is oversized, it will not run long enough to pull the humidity out of the air. Then you will still feel hot because you can't sweat.
Some utility companies will audit the house for free and propose a size.
Add a little bit to that to compensate for aging of unit.
The size estimates by the HVAC companies tend to be rule of thumb and do not take into account the heavy insulation you have!
LINK
LINK
Posted on 9/21/15 at 7:02 am to FreeState
I just had to replace two AC units in my home because they were not sized properly. A coils continually had moisture on them and they eventually developed corrosion and I lost my freon. These units were only 7 years old. Very important what had been stated in previous posts about insulation, types of windows and how much shade your new house will have. I highly suggest a 18 to 20 seer variable speed unit. Will cost more on the the upfront but you should have noticble lower electric bills. For your upstairs a 15 seer std unit should work fine since you will not spend much time there. put your AC money where the family will be most.
Posted on 9/21/15 at 7:26 am to TygerDurden
I recommend getting a dvd by Doug Rye an architect in arkansas. He shows how to build an energy efficient house.
When I built I used most of his recommendations. I doubled my sq. ft. and cut my utility bills in half.
his comments on insulation and ac units will be of interest to you.
When I built I used most of his recommendations. I doubled my sq. ft. and cut my utility bills in half.
his comments on insulation and ac units will be of interest to you.
This post was edited on 9/21/15 at 7:28 am
Posted on 9/21/15 at 7:28 am to soccerfüt
The upstairs solution is not complex and will cost about the same as a mini split system. It takes a computer board to open the baffles to the two areas. Some people do these zones for each room in their house. That is a little much, but for an upstairs with different heat loads, it works great.
Posted on 9/21/15 at 7:42 am to Libertariantiger
(no message)
This post was edited on 11/17/15 at 9:18 pm
Posted on 9/21/15 at 8:02 am to WeeWee
quote:
Not sure about the downstairs tonnage, but the upstairs mini-split is the only way to go. Just be sure to get some kind of wall mount for to hold the remote.
Couldn't agree more. For that size space (300 sq ft), it is the best route to follow. I've heard very good things about the Mitsubishi and Fujitsu units.
Posted on 9/21/15 at 8:16 am to Martini
quote:
5 ton downstairs - ductless mini split upstairs.
Posted on 9/21/15 at 8:31 am to cajunangelle
We are building 3900ft2 living area and we're doing a 4.5 ton downstairs (2700ft2) and 2.0 up (1200 ft2).
Our HVAC did a manual J. Because we are doing spray foam all over he said 6.5 tons was the right amount.
Agree with other posters on over sizing. Particularly with my foam house, everything I have read says over sizing can be an issue. Not sure about with BATT.
Our HVAC did a manual J. Because we are doing spray foam all over he said 6.5 tons was the right amount.
Agree with other posters on over sizing. Particularly with my foam house, everything I have read says over sizing can be an issue. Not sure about with BATT.
Posted on 9/21/15 at 8:59 am to madmaxvol
quote:
Couldn't agree more. For that size space (300 sq ft), it is the best route to follow. I've heard very good things about the Mitsubishi and Fujitsu units.
I have 2 Fijitsu units. I can't complain
Posted on 9/21/15 at 9:04 am to WeeWee
quote:
Couldn't agree more. For that size space (300 sq ft), it is the best route to follow. I've heard very good things about the Mitsubishi and Fujitsu units.
quote:
I have 2 Fijitsu units. I can't complain
I've heard some good things about Daikin units...but I don't know enough about them to recommend one, yet.
Posted on 9/21/15 at 10:12 am to madmaxvol
quote:
I've heard some good things about Daikin units...
Daikin makes a great unit. I would pick them over Mitsubishi, LG, or Fujitsu.
Posted on 9/21/15 at 10:28 am to Ziggy
What should be a normal humidity level if the HVAC is properly sized?
Posted on 9/21/15 at 10:31 am to TigerRob20
Can't
stop
looking
at
your
avatar....
stop
looking
at
your
avatar....
Posted on 9/21/15 at 10:51 am to TigerRob20
quote:
What should be a normal humidity level if the HVAC is properly sized?
Below about 30% RH, the vast majority of people will find it uncomfortably dry. Above 65% or so, you start running the risk of microbial growth in the HVAC system.
So, It's typically somewhere in the range of 30-60% or so, but is highly subjective and dependent on temperature, activity levels, air velocities, radiant heat sources, whether TigerRob20's avatar is in the room with you, etc., etc.
This post was edited on 9/21/15 at 10:56 am
Posted on 9/21/15 at 10:54 am to TigerstuckinMS
quote:
whether TigerRob20's avatar is in the room with you, etc., etc.
Posted on 9/21/15 at 12:53 pm to Rev1897
quote:
We are building 3900ft2 living area and we're doing a 4.5 ton downstairs (2700ft2) and 2.0 up (1200 ft2). Our HVAC did a manual J. Because we are doing spray foam all over he said 6.5 tons was the right amount. Agree with other posters on over sizing. Particularly with my foam house, everything I have read says over sizing can be an issue. Not sure about with BATT.
Can still happen, but obviously not as likely.
I love foam. Quiet house, cheap electricity bills, all good. The ROI takes a bit, but worth it.
Posted on 9/22/15 at 10:16 am to N2cars
quote:
I love foam. Quiet house, cheap electricity bills, all good. The ROI takes a bit, but worth it.
Yea, the ROI is the drawback. Also, I've heard to run some pvc through the walls to make sure you can run cords later.
Posted on 9/22/15 at 10:24 am to Rev1897
I left a chase from 1 to 2, but I would've done that anyway.
Running cables down a wall is PITA, bit the fireblock is the issue.
Foam drills pretty easy.
Running cables down a wall is PITA, bit the fireblock is the issue.
Foam drills pretty easy.
Posted on 9/22/15 at 11:14 am to Rev1897
quote:
Yea, the ROI is the drawback. Also, I've heard to run some pvc through the walls to make sure you can run cords later.
Where there was stuff like network, cable TV , home theater wiring or something that may need to be revised possibly years down the road I put in a plastic conduit from the attic down to the outlet box. Has already paid off several times for things I didn't think of up front. I know everyone will be yelling its stupid with today's wireless devices, but I like wire.
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