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re: Cost plus building

Posted by Libertariantiger on 12/22/22 at 9:06 am to
It's very difficult to have remodels done for anything less than cost plus. They are almost always cost plus because the process will vary whereas new construction is process driven and you can do it the same way every time. Repeatability makes it where you can get hard bids.
Remodels are hard to even help a customer estimate bc you cant see exactly what needs to be done, you only guess what's behind the finished areas. Patience is the key to remodeling.
Google search lsu ag butterfly gardening and they have a pdf of the book they put out.
My mom has a nice one. She has flowering stuff people know you need, but they need things like herbs and host plants/tress too. Once she gets cocoons she will transplant them to a netted area. If not most the cocoons get destroyed and eaten by other things.

re: Cost plus building

Posted by Libertariantiger on 12/18/22 at 8:39 pm to
Yes, but the issue is there is no incentive for the contractor to get you the best prices. They have 3 different prices..... retail customer, cost plus guy who get small discount, and hard bids who play hard ball.
The biggest issue with cost plus is allowances that do not work out. The plan the other poster said would be a fair resolution. Ask the contractor to agree to cap anything that is on allowance at the allowance amount. Ita not harder or cost any more to put in a $500 faucet than a $200 one.

re: Cost plus building

Posted by Libertariantiger on 12/18/22 at 4:57 pm to
Check out Cretin Townsend Homes. If it's normal construction it would be hard bid except for site related items like dirt, well/water, sewer, etc etc. By normal I mean 200k-500k and what you would find 90% of people doing.
Costs are actually going down right now. Lumber is down. Sheetrock and shingles are not up and if you shop ypu can get for less than 4-5 months ago.

re: DIY sealing bricks

Posted by Libertariantiger on 12/18/22 at 4:50 pm to
The most issue I've had that needed sealing was fireplace stacks. Sealing then solved all the issues we were having. On normal walls the air space and weep holes are good. Most sealers just paint on and last 5-7 years.
I second that the Atlas rep is a clown. I like the shingle, but the south Louisiana sales rep is a CLOWN.
1. To me shingle brand is the least important. Somewhere like consumer reports will give you pros and cons, but most that are similar weight will perform similarly. Once the shingles get heavier they are better. They go by packs to the square, so a 4 pack per square shingle is better than a 3 pack per square shingle. 95% of roofs are 3 packs per square and those are all comparable. That said, I prefer atlas or certainteed.

2. Price should fall between 300 and 400 per square material and labor. Right now there is not a big demand like there was 6-12 mo ago. The supply yards went from attlotments to not ordering every week.

3. It is hard to really judge an install for a homeowner. I would have an expectation sheet (nails per shingle, roof jack styles, Ridge vent style etc etc) and pay a home inspector $400 to come inspect work in place. They will check things like caulking also.
I'll probably go against the grain here. I build and this is what I'm putting in my home I am building now. Granted I will only be there 5 years or so the national average is 7 years.
1. Skimp I hated my 2 stage multi zoned ac. Like with a passion. Give me 2 ac system base that turns on and has one speed. The 2 stage plus zones had way too much to go wrong. Computer signals what zone and sends signal to units for what stage. Then the crappy zone motors went out in 5 or 6 years and had to be replaced. Screw those systems. 2 regular acs on different sections of the house is the way to go.
2. Splurge I'm spending on a badazz shower. 2 person 4ft x7ft. Multiple rain heads and shower heads plus a handheld. Also using the Moen smart U shower that controls it from a small pad or your phone.
3. I have a leak protection valve in the garage. Moen Flow. It detects for example if a toilet line gives out in the middle of the night. Will alert your phone and turn the water main off.
4. Splurge Big pantry with space for kitchen like stuff, counters, etc. It's nice having a mini kitchen hidden away with mixers, blenders, storage for big pots.
5. Skimp I'm doing some basic insulation. The houses won't pass code with foam and I don't think it's worth the 20k to upgrade. It requires extra ac components and I just don't get it. There is no end to better. Save that money and go solar if it's about energy costs, but me, reg insulation in walls, extra on joist bc its cheap, and lots of sealing with silicone and greatstuff prior to sheetrock.
6. Splurge I'm a paint snob and 100% beleive some paints on exterior are worth more. Check consumer reports and use a good exterior paint.
7. Splurge Out door kitchen is a must. Get a high output side burner.
8. Skimp I will not do semi prof appliances. It's like 4x the amount. Get nice cooktop, hood, and seperate oven/mic, but don't spend 35k on appliances.
9. Mid I wouldn't do builder grade windows. I priced casement windows and frik that, but nicer windows with a thick frame and different design... I paid a few grand more.
10. Mid Cabinets can vary in price based on simple things like number of color choices. Def get ply sides, 5 PC drawers, and soft close stuff, but beware that ypu can spend 20k on cabinets or 30k and get the similar features. Shop that hard.
11. Splurge Floors! I'm out on LVP. It has doubled on price due to demand since '16 and is everywhere now. I'm back in on wood, but ultimately I think I'm going to go with a really nice rectified, thin grout line, long plank wood look ceramic.
12. Skimp Driveway I'm going to pave, but I'll be cautious not to have a full court basketball driveway to save a few bucks.

re: Mildew on ceiling

Posted by Libertariantiger on 10/1/22 at 11:50 pm to
The flappers get stuck open after you turn them on... pro tip, tape a dime to the bottom of the flapper and it will close every time after use.
I do not think prices are coming down anytime soon. I think it's flat. We have seen lumber come down, but most other items are holding rather than going up. Labor going up is starting to gobble up at savings from lumber. You can still get a normal house with builder grade finishes on your lot in the $125 total sqft (that's porches/garages incl) price range. That's about $160/sqft living with normal ranges of porches and garages.
Check out CT Homes in Gulfport. They have an office off Hwy 49 by the 2 Walgreens. They have a really fair price and some lots waiting to build to suit. The values are crazy down there and building is picking up. I was surprised at how many lots from Katrina still have driveways and nothing else. People moving in there from NO everyday....
I'm on my second pool. I prefer the modern chlorine over the salt. I really like the Hayward system with the app on your phone although it has given me a few issues ie: loss of communication to the internet more than I would like and it lost connection to the pump and it ran multiple days until it blew a relay. I still would buy another Hayward system. Biggest take away was my first pool I skipped getting a hot tub and hearer for costs and added a seperate stand alone hottub later. I much prefer the built in hottub and having the heating system. For an extra 15k I'd build in a hot tub. The kids play in it a ton and is worth every dollar spent.
Chris
Let me know you got that and I'll take his number down.
the go fund me the story linked says they were in a bar and sounds like had too much to drink.

re: Purchasing Brick

Posted by Libertariantiger on 5/23/22 at 7:54 pm to
I'd try Economy Brick. If you are open to picking something they have or can get, you will be okay. If your wife has or sees one that she has to have.....
Some said Acme, but they aren't selling in LA anymore. The market in TX was so hot it didn't make sense to ship brick here so the store in BR is basically floors only now.
Costs on a small metal roof job right now is crazy.....
But also the construction process takes a little patience. I hate guys walking and painting on my metal. The paintwr wont like working on the metal either. So basically I like to flash everything, then Hardie, then paint, then install roofing. The issue is do you insulate and sheetrock or do you wait. I have done both and neither is optimal, but the dormers in metal have caused me more issues. To me it's easiest to do the dormer in shingle and do metal over porches, while keeping the look.
Pre Ida my company had roofs hand nailed. We were a late hold out. After Ida, nobody would do it and I had to go gun nailed to get labor. Swinging hammers is a thing of the past.....

For shingles, Frick Atlas, I like CertainTeed.

I think consumer reports has the most in depth shinglr reviews. Basically shingles are all about weight. If you get heavy shingles that are 4 packs to a square, every brand ranks higher than the 3 bundles per square shingles. So it's a you get what you pay for type situation.
Do it like most electricians and cut 2-3' off it....

re: Tell me about LVT/LVP

Posted by Libertariantiger on 4/15/22 at 3:22 pm to
If you go with this make sure to visqueen under the LVT. It hasn't been widespread but I have had some issues with it. Without visqueen, humidity/sweat under the floor can get in the seams. In the high traffic areas, the seams can crack from the pressure when the moisture get in. Remember LVT bottom side is very hard and can be brittle. Wood and laminate floors are much softer on the underneath.