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re: AC management strategy when you go to work
Posted on 7/19/26 at 11:27 pm to stout
Posted on 7/19/26 at 11:27 pm to stout
quote:
The only studies you will find are from firms like Energy Star and their advice is a national energy-saving guideline, not really accurate for a state like Louisiana with a very humid climate
So no good studies, yet people keep repeating the info.
I bump mine to 76 during the day and lower it between 70-72 at night, depending on the humidity.
Posted on 7/20/26 at 6:04 am to MRTigerFan
quote:
Um yeah, that's exactly how an ac works. I basically sealed off 2 rooms so now I have less volume to cool. I also fully opened the damper to my master bedroom while slightly closing others and my bedroom stays slightly cooler than the rest of the house. Please explain how what I'm currently doing isn't how an ac works. Also please explain what is the purpose of adjustable vents and dampers if not to adjust air flow. I bet you're one of those people (like most women) who thinks the lower you set the thermostat the faster it cools off the house.
Sure, I’ll entertain this. Let’s start with this, air conditioners are sized for the total conditioned square footage of the house—not for whatever rooms you decide to close off. The blower is designed to move a specific amount of air through the duct system that was balanced with the registers opened.
When you start closing registers, you aren’t magically making the system cool less space more efficiently. You’re increasing static pressure in the ductwork because the blower is trying to push the same volume of air through fewer openings. Higher static pressure means lower airflow across the evaporator coil, reduced efficiency, and more strain on the blower motor. Less airflow across the coils increases the likelihood of them icing over. Not to mention, if you have duct leaks (you do just like everyone) the increased pressure forces more conditioned air into the attic. So instead of cooling your rooms, you’re paying to cool off the attic.
The “less volume to cool” argument also ignores how thermostats work. When you create large temperature imbalances throughout the house, it will likely take longer for your thermostat to reach its set point due to heat coming through the walls from the closed off rooms. Adjustable registers are there to fine tune airflow not cut it off.
But what do I know? You do you.
Posted on 7/20/26 at 6:27 am to MRTigerFan
quote:Driving an automobile has screwed them up in their thinking.
I bet you're one of those people (like most women) who thinks the lower you set the thermostat the faster it cools off the house.
Driving 60 mph gets you somewhere twice as fast as would driving 30 mph.
They don’t realize that the A/C system has only one cooling rate.
They have minds like Swiss Cheese.
Posted on 7/20/26 at 7:28 am to soccerfüt
Posted on 7/20/26 at 7:50 am to Ldogg123
I shouldn't have said "sealing off" two rooms. Instead, I should have said reduce flow to the unused rooms.
Except that's exactly what I did. But it wasn't magic. Like I said my energy bill went from $300 last July 2025 to $125 June 2026. But I'll admit most of that is due to raising the thermostat to 78 during the day while I'm at work. The main thing I noticed when closing the registers and closing the doors to those rooms is that my AC can keep up now on the weekends during the hottest part of the day. Before, my unit would run nonstop from about 11am-5pm and struggle to stay below 76. Now with those 2 rooms closed off with minimal air flow, my unit can keep up much better.
So a system designed for 2000 SF definitely won't work for 1700 SF, Right? That 15% volume reduction is going make my system inoperable?
I don't think you're going to get much "heat coming through the walls" on a 10° differential. My house is at 72° and the unused rooms are 82°. That 10° difference isn't going to transfer through two layers of sheetrock enough to make a difference.
You must be an engineer. I see this a lot in my line of work where young engineers with a lot of theoretical knowledge don't realize that their theories oftentimes don't work well in practice in the real world.
This we can agree on. As previously stated, I shouldn't have said "sealed off" the rooms but rather fine tune it to minimize air flow to those unused rooms while increasing or maximizing air flow to the master bedroom.
quote:
When you start closing registers, you aren’t magically making the system cool less space more efficiently.
Except that's exactly what I did. But it wasn't magic. Like I said my energy bill went from $300 last July 2025 to $125 June 2026. But I'll admit most of that is due to raising the thermostat to 78 during the day while I'm at work. The main thing I noticed when closing the registers and closing the doors to those rooms is that my AC can keep up now on the weekends during the hottest part of the day. Before, my unit would run nonstop from about 11am-5pm and struggle to stay below 76. Now with those 2 rooms closed off with minimal air flow, my unit can keep up much better.
quote:
conditioners are sized for the total conditioned square footage of the house—not for whatever rooms you decide
So a system designed for 2000 SF definitely won't work for 1700 SF, Right? That 15% volume reduction is going make my system inoperable?
quote:
The “less volume to cool” argument also ignores how thermostats work. When you create large temperature imbalances throughout the house, it will likely take longer for your thermostat to reach its set point due to heat coming through the walls from the closed off rooms
I don't think you're going to get much "heat coming through the walls" on a 10° differential. My house is at 72° and the unused rooms are 82°. That 10° difference isn't going to transfer through two layers of sheetrock enough to make a difference.
You must be an engineer. I see this a lot in my line of work where young engineers with a lot of theoretical knowledge don't realize that their theories oftentimes don't work well in practice in the real world.
quote:
Adjustable registers are there to fine tune airflow not cut it off.
This we can agree on. As previously stated, I shouldn't have said "sealed off" the rooms but rather fine tune it to minimize air flow to those unused rooms while increasing or maximizing air flow to the master bedroom.
This post was edited on 7/20/26 at 8:13 am
Posted on 7/20/26 at 7:52 am to tewino
I turn mine up to about 75 when I go to work, and back to 72 or 71 when I get home, 69 at night. I don't turn it all the way to 69 when I get home because it would run for a long time to get to that temp. I think turning it down in stages helps. I only turn it above 75 if I'm going to be out of town for a few days, and even then I wouldn't turn it above 78.
Posted on 7/20/26 at 7:55 am to tewino
Put on 77 when you leave in morning. Put on 75 when you get home. Knock down to 71-72 when you sleep.
Posted on 7/20/26 at 8:30 am to MRTigerFan
You are mis-informed. The system is designed for some air flow to each room. Don't shut off rooms.
Posted on 7/20/26 at 8:41 am to KWL85
quote:
You are mis-informed. The system is designed for some air flow to each room. Don't shut off rooms.
I've already addressed this. I shouldn't have said "seal off" but rather minimize air flow to the unused rooms. It has done wonders for my system and electric bill.
Posted on 7/20/26 at 8:45 am to tewino
I leave mine on 73 during the day and 70 when I go to bed.
Posted on 7/20/26 at 9:05 am to tewino
Set to 72° everyday 24/7 365 days a year.
I seriously doubt would save $20 a month and cycling to 76° if not home.
It not just the change in air temperature its the removing of that heat from everything and room in the house
I seriously doubt would save $20 a month and cycling to 76° if not home.
It not just the change in air temperature its the removing of that heat from everything and room in the house
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