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Adding blocking inside the walls (new construction)

Posted on 2/25/26 at 7:48 am
Posted by Will Cover
Davidson, NC
Member since Mar 2007
40094 posts
Posted on 2/25/26 at 7:48 am
I've always heard to use 2 x 6 to add blocking before the drywall goes up to help with hanging items (toilet paper holders, TVs, thermostats, towel holders, cabinets, railings, mirrors, etc.) to help add strengthening behind the drywall, and to take away the guess work.

I just saw a video last night where a person recommended using 3/4" plywood instead of 2 x 6 and to go ahead and apply the plywood to all of interior walls (after insulation). The cost is minimal from what they said and truly eliminates any guess work even with blocking.

Is 3/4" plywood strong or thick enough to hold a TV mount (or cabinets -- I would like to think that a cabinet installer will go directly into the studs) as compared to a 2 x 6? Does the plywood also help with any sound deadening as well?
This post was edited on 2/25/26 at 7:50 am
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
47489 posts
Posted on 2/25/26 at 7:55 am to
it’s done both ways depending on if wall thickness is makes a difference (the extra 3/4” or 1.5” if you do both sides). That can matter for door frames and windows. Dealers choice
Posted by rustyjohnson
LP
Member since Oct 2009
440 posts
Posted on 2/25/26 at 8:21 am to
So you’d sheath the entire interior of your house? Have to cut out all the receptacles and extend them the thickness of the ply? I would not do that. I’d put 3/4” ply in pocket door frames for toilet paper holders and blocking for TVs and call it a day.

Posted by Tree_Fall
Member since Mar 2021
1178 posts
Posted on 2/25/26 at 8:21 am to
quote:

I would like to think that a cabinet installer will go directly into the studs


Friends in a fancy new house had kitchen cabinets fall off the wall because installer missed the studs...does happen.

A reinforced section of a windowless inside wall makes some sense. You could always access the wall cavity through the wallboard on the back side. The day will come when you need to access wiring in the wall where you hang your electronics,
Posted by trident
Member since Jul 2007
4847 posts
Posted on 2/25/26 at 8:24 am to
I wouldnt do plywood. That will make your walls thicker. If you did do this you would have to do that entire wall or else the sheetrock will be wonky and it is a bit of an over kill IMO
Posted by Randall Savauge
Member since Aug 2021
649 posts
Posted on 2/25/26 at 8:33 am to
you're talking about solid sheeting. typically it's done to "make the house stronger".

solid sheeting a house will cost $15k-20k. if you're worried only about blocking, that's a lot to spend.

Also, you typically solid sheet with 5/8 plywood.
Posted by gumbeaux
Member since Jun 2004
5109 posts
Posted on 2/25/26 at 8:45 am to
I did the same around windows so curtain rod brackets are screwed into a stud and not just drywall.
Posted by Clames
Member since Oct 2010
19295 posts
Posted on 2/25/26 at 9:11 am to
I would just go with blocking, not like there is really that much guess work with normal studs anyway.
Posted by Art Vandelay
LOUISIANA
Member since Sep 2005
11470 posts
Posted on 2/25/26 at 9:38 am to
If there is a wall where you know you need to mount a tv or any large items( pictures, animals, shelving or cabinets go ahead. For things like toilet paper holder or smaller things you don’t need solid walls or blocking because you’ll probably never get blocking in the right spot anyway. But do know this, you can throw away those wall dogs for anything that you will use or will move like tp holders. They will come out. Use something that tightens on the back of the drywall. Like a toggle, but I know there are some newer type toggles that can be used.
Posted by GeauxldMember
Member since Nov 2003
5627 posts
Posted on 2/25/26 at 2:44 pm to
My first house had the interior walls decked with 3/4” plywood. It was convenient for hanging pictures and such, but most of tape joints of the drywall developed small cracks. My assumption is the movement of the plywood over the seasons caused this. Wasn’t a giant deal, but it was unsightly for an anal retentive fricker like me.

Also, I don’t think the cost would be “minimal” any more. I think a sheet of 3/4” CDX is around $35.
Posted by diat150
Louisiana
Member since Jun 2005
47478 posts
Posted on 2/25/26 at 4:00 pm to
people used to solid sheet but not so much anymore. my last house was solid sheeted and it was way better compared to the one I live in now. your doors will have to be special order but it makes a big difference in insulation, sound, and strength of the structure.
Posted by Turnblad85
Member since Sep 2022
5039 posts
Posted on 2/25/26 at 9:04 pm to
Interior sheathing is a premium option and is not done in 98% of homes built today. 3/4 ply will hold just about anything conceivable you screw into it.

I put 1/2 ply in my baths and 3/4 in my kitchen. None anywhere else in house. Nice to be able to hang anything anywhere in the rooms its in.
Posted by Neauxla
New Orleans
Member since Feb 2008
34214 posts
Posted on 2/25/26 at 9:11 pm to
Why’d you do it in those rooms?
Posted by Turnblad85
Member since Sep 2022
5039 posts
Posted on 2/25/26 at 9:18 pm to
in the kitchen for hanging cabinets and wall organizers. In the bath from towel racks, tp holders mirrors, curtains...ect. Bath/kitchens have way more going on in them than the other rooms.
Posted by Randall Savauge
Member since Aug 2021
649 posts
Posted on 2/26/26 at 8:09 am to
quote:

but it makes a big difference in insulation, sound, and strength of the structure.


We've had this discussion here before i think but this is anecdotal at best.
Posted by Novastar
Member since Jan 2023
747 posts
Posted on 2/26/26 at 8:43 am to
Add curtain rod locations to your list. You'd be surprised at the weight of custom drapery installed in rooms with 12' ceilings.

Also, 3/4 plywood flush mounted between studs for blocking is completely adequate to support almost anything in your home.
Posted by TU Rob
Birmingham
Member since Nov 2008
13386 posts
Posted on 2/26/26 at 9:46 am to
quote:

Add curtain rod locations to your list. You'd be surprised at the weight of custom drapery installed in rooms with 12' ceilings.

Also, 3/4 plywood flush mounted between studs for blocking is completely adequate to support almost anything in your home.


Learned that the hard way in one of the bedrooms. Some of that due to rowdy boys who thought the curtains were a toy, but I had to remove the hardware, patch the hole where it had opened up in the drywall, and then install the hardware in a slightly different spot. One side was in a stud, the other was not, and that side that only had a wall anchor took the brunt of it.

Also if you can, don't use the tiny screws that come with most mounting hardware on things. We had a toilet paper holder with what looked to be 1 inch screws. There was a mounting bracket, and then the actual holder attached to that bracket and all screws were hidden, so I grabbed a 2 inch deck screw and zipped it into the stud.
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