re: When do you decide to get a new vehicle?

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Chad504boy

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Hey Zeller

So you’re a broke A**? Lol. The OT ballers worth millions are laughing at you.

Me: my office leases me a car, so when the lease runs out. Before that, it was when repairs started costing what a new car note would cost or when it was spending so much time in the shop that it was useless.

Wife: when she wants one, but she is so indecisive that it takes a while for her to find one she likes

We keep a family vehicle under 120-130k. Trips, high school sports away games, church. Ect.

Then I have a truck paid for within spitting distance of 200k and another 96 Toyota hunting truck. The odometer stoped working 10 years ago showing 170k. Wouldn’t be surprised if it has 250k on it.

Current vehicle prices = no way in hell. Both of mine have over 100K on them, are garage kept, and in excellent shape. When the engine goes, I'll just drop a new one in. As I do all the maintenance, things that need replacing/repair are done when they appear.

Dropping a new engine/transmission in on vehicle that still is in great shape otherwise? That's a no brainer.

I pay cash for old cars, typically with no less than 100K. Just bought a 2006 Tundra 4x4 with 213K a few months ago. frick car notes.

My last F-150 got traded in when the warranty ran out after 7 years. Service history in that truck was a mile long- yearly A/C problems, a turbo went out, and the customer service at the Ford dealership was the absolute worst. The Jeep I replaced it with, I'm shooting for 200,000+ miles. It's pretty basic- no screens, sensors, etc, so it should last a while.

Wife's car is 10-12 years, depending on maintenance. I got rid of her Escalade when it needed $1600 worth of work, and I was tired of getting 12mpg. It was rode hard- 2008 with only 120,000 miles, but the leather was torn on driver's seat, kid stains in the back, cracked side view mirror, mirror motors broken, tailgate motor was broken, scratches/dings, road rash rims, etc. I got $9000 for it in trade and I took it and ran.

Most repairs won’t be more than a car payment cv joints pair of tires maybe a relay module total transmissions engines can get expensive change the oil filter NEVER EVER BUY A CAR WITH A CVT
Drive it till the wheels fall off start docking away extra money so you don’t have to finance as much, and any car literally any driveable car is worth 15-1800..

When repairs become a PITA and you are throwing good money after bad.

Time is the enemy more than miles as all rubber parts/seals will fail eventually.

At some point it becomes a rolling restoration project and sourcing parts that are OEM only becomes difficult.

I'd say most cars reach this point around 15 years if well taken care of along the way.

With that said I still keep my wife's old 2008 Honda Odyssey on the road as a "spare" vehicle for when one of the newer ones is being serviced or waiting on parts.