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Mechanics of the OT, I need your help!

Posted on 10/9/24 at 6:21 pm
Posted by NeilArmstrong1969
Member since Jul 2024
49 posts
Posted on 10/9/24 at 6:21 pm
I drive a 2017 Tahoe and over the past couple of weeks the interior lights have been very dim - radio and speedometer. This morning when I went to unlock my vehicle it wouldn’t unlock after hitting the unlock button on my remote. As I pulled on the driver’s side door it started to open and then wouldn’t open fully. After a few more tries, I got it open. When I went inside store just now, I left it unlocked and running. When I when to get back it, it was locked and I had to have someone bring me a spare to get in. I just got my battery replaced a couple of months ago, does anyone have any idea what could be wrong with it?
Posted by mwlewis
JeffCo
Member since Nov 2010
21499 posts
Posted on 10/9/24 at 6:22 pm to
Your battery is probably bad
Posted by kywildcatfanone
Wildcat Country!
Member since Oct 2012
130194 posts
Posted on 10/9/24 at 6:23 pm to
Check the blinker fluid and the ball bearings.

It's all ball bearings these days.
Posted by cubsfan5150
NWA
Member since Nov 2007
16749 posts
Posted on 10/9/24 at 6:23 pm to
Very odd. look for corrosion around your battery.
Posted by Hangover Haven
Metry
Member since Oct 2013
29810 posts
Posted on 10/9/24 at 6:24 pm to
quote:

As I pulled on the driver’s side door it started to open and then wouldn’t open fully.


How would a dead battery have an effect on this...?

Weird...

Other than getting hit on the driver's side door, why wouldn't the door open all the way, it's a door on hinges.

This post was edited on 10/9/24 at 6:27 pm
Posted by Nolalakeview
Member since Feb 2015
1871 posts
Posted on 10/9/24 at 6:25 pm to
Same thing with one of our vehicles. It is our alternator. We need a new one. Will be ready tomorrow.
This post was edited on 10/9/24 at 6:26 pm
Posted by Hogbit
Benton, AR
Member since Aug 2019
3091 posts
Posted on 10/9/24 at 6:29 pm to
Bad ground
Posted by fr33manator
Baton Rouge
Member since Oct 2010
130148 posts
Posted on 10/9/24 at 6:31 pm to
quote:

It's all ball bearings these days.



Probably a tremendous amount of asian in it.

Might want to check the fetzer valve


ETA: what the hell? Are the TD censors that obtuse? I did not type Asian

This post was edited on 10/9/24 at 6:42 pm
Posted by BabyTac
Austin, TX
Member since Jun 2008
14345 posts
Posted on 10/9/24 at 6:32 pm to
Buy a Tundra
Posted by N2cars
Member since Feb 2008
34327 posts
Posted on 10/9/24 at 6:33 pm to
Bad battery.
Posted by POTUS2024
Member since Nov 2022
20943 posts
Posted on 10/9/24 at 6:34 pm to
Change the oil in the wobulator. Duh
Posted by N2cars
Member since Feb 2008
34327 posts
Posted on 10/9/24 at 6:36 pm to
PS.

Neil was a helluva astronaut. Took over from the computers and landed that bitch soft as a baby's bottom.

IFYKYK
Posted by AUstar
Member since Dec 2012
18446 posts
Posted on 10/9/24 at 6:37 pm to
Battery or alternator almost certainly. If the battery is new (and good), it's likely the alternator not charging it.

If you have a multimeter you can easily check. Put it on DC voltage mode (not AC), then put red lead on positive and black on negative. While car is off, the battery should read above 12v (12.2 to maybe 13v max). Next check it with truck running. While running it should read 13-15v which means your alternator is working. If you get something below about 13v, the alternator is having a hard time and needs to be replaced.

And yes sometimes new batteries are bad. The last one I bought lasted a week and had to return it. New one works fine.
This post was edited on 10/9/24 at 6:42 pm
Posted by Victor R Franko
Member since Dec 2021
829 posts
Posted on 10/9/24 at 6:41 pm to
Take it to parts store so they acn run a free test. Sooner the better. The door part is weird for sure.
Does this have the keyless fob thing?
Posted by Obtuse1
Westside Bodymore Yo
Member since Sep 2016
28428 posts
Posted on 10/9/24 at 6:42 pm to
1. battery even though it is new

2. battery connection was poorly done at the time of replacement

3. alternator which especially is the battery you replaced was not that old it may be what killed one or both batteries

4. parasitic loss when the vehicle is off it could be one of dozens of different subsystems
Posted by BilbeauTBaggins
probably stuck in traffic
Member since May 2021
7168 posts
Posted on 10/9/24 at 6:45 pm to
Post pics of battery terminals. Sounds like it could be a poor connection. Other option is bad alternator.

Bring it to where you got your battery at. Most have at least a 2 year warranty. AutoZone will battery test for free.
Posted by uaslick
Tuscaloosa
Member since May 2011
1054 posts
Posted on 10/9/24 at 7:00 pm to
Jiggle the franistat wire. The blue one with the white stripe. It is a common problem on these vehicles.

ETA: get the auto parts store to check the battery and the alternator. They could be producing too many ohms, which could blow out the franistat. The franistat can be hard to get to. Usually under the dash near the steering column up above the brake pedal.
This post was edited on 10/9/24 at 7:09 pm
Posted by Ncook
Member since Feb 2019
610 posts
Posted on 10/9/24 at 7:07 pm to
If it will start, drive to the nearest Auto Zone and they will check your battery and alternator at no charge.

Takes 5 minutes or less.
Posted by LazloHollyfeld
Steam Tunnel at UNC-G
Member since Apr 2009
1881 posts
Posted on 10/9/24 at 7:30 pm to
quote:

Bad ground


Could be this. Had this happen on 2015 Suburban. Similar electrical issues. Wouldn’t even recognize FOB sometimes.
Posted by holdmuh keystonelite
Member since Oct 2020
2560 posts
Posted on 10/9/24 at 7:34 pm to
Sounds like the alternator.
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