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Started By
Message

Mechanics of the OT, I need your help!
Posted on 10/9/24 at 6:21 pm
Posted on 10/9/24 at 6:21 pm
I drive a 2017 Tahoe and over the past couple of weeks the interior lights have been very dim - radio and speedometer. This morning when I went to unlock my vehicle it wouldn’t unlock after hitting the unlock button on my remote. As I pulled on the driver’s side door it started to open and then wouldn’t open fully. After a few more tries, I got it open. When I went inside store just now, I left it unlocked and running. When I when to get back it, it was locked and I had to have someone bring me a spare to get in. I just got my battery replaced a couple of months ago, does anyone have any idea what could be wrong with it?
Posted on 10/9/24 at 6:22 pm to NeilArmstrong1969
Your battery is probably bad
Posted on 10/9/24 at 6:23 pm to NeilArmstrong1969
Check the blinker fluid and the ball bearings.
It's all ball bearings these days.
It's all ball bearings these days.
Posted on 10/9/24 at 6:23 pm to NeilArmstrong1969
Very odd. look for corrosion around your battery.
Posted on 10/9/24 at 6:24 pm to NeilArmstrong1969
quote:
As I pulled on the driver’s side door it started to open and then wouldn’t open fully.
How would a dead battery have an effect on this...?
Weird...
Other than getting hit on the driver's side door, why wouldn't the door open all the way, it's a door on hinges.

This post was edited on 10/9/24 at 6:27 pm
Posted on 10/9/24 at 6:25 pm to NeilArmstrong1969
Same thing with one of our vehicles. It is our alternator. We need a new one. Will be ready tomorrow.
This post was edited on 10/9/24 at 6:26 pm
Posted on 10/9/24 at 6:31 pm to kywildcatfanone
quote:
It's all ball bearings these days.
Probably a tremendous amount of asian in it.
Might want to check the fetzer valve
ETA: what the hell? Are the TD censors that obtuse? I did not type Asian
This post was edited on 10/9/24 at 6:42 pm
Posted on 10/9/24 at 6:34 pm to NeilArmstrong1969
Change the oil in the wobulator. Duh
Posted on 10/9/24 at 6:36 pm to N2cars
PS.
Neil was a helluva astronaut. Took over from the computers and landed that bitch soft as a baby's bottom.
IFYKYK
Neil was a helluva astronaut. Took over from the computers and landed that bitch soft as a baby's bottom.
IFYKYK
Posted on 10/9/24 at 6:37 pm to NeilArmstrong1969
Battery or alternator almost certainly. If the battery is new (and good), it's likely the alternator not charging it.
If you have a multimeter you can easily check. Put it on DC voltage mode (not AC), then put red lead on positive and black on negative. While car is off, the battery should read above 12v (12.2 to maybe 13v max). Next check it with truck running. While running it should read 13-15v which means your alternator is working. If you get something below about 13v, the alternator is having a hard time and needs to be replaced.
And yes sometimes new batteries are bad. The last one I bought lasted a week and had to return it. New one works fine.
If you have a multimeter you can easily check. Put it on DC voltage mode (not AC), then put red lead on positive and black on negative. While car is off, the battery should read above 12v (12.2 to maybe 13v max). Next check it with truck running. While running it should read 13-15v which means your alternator is working. If you get something below about 13v, the alternator is having a hard time and needs to be replaced.
And yes sometimes new batteries are bad. The last one I bought lasted a week and had to return it. New one works fine.
This post was edited on 10/9/24 at 6:42 pm
Posted on 10/9/24 at 6:41 pm to NeilArmstrong1969
Take it to parts store so they acn run a free test. Sooner the better. The door part is weird for sure.
Does this have the keyless fob thing?
Does this have the keyless fob thing?
Posted on 10/9/24 at 6:42 pm to NeilArmstrong1969
1. battery even though it is new
2. battery connection was poorly done at the time of replacement
3. alternator which especially is the battery you replaced was not that old it may be what killed one or both batteries
4. parasitic loss when the vehicle is off it could be one of dozens of different subsystems
2. battery connection was poorly done at the time of replacement
3. alternator which especially is the battery you replaced was not that old it may be what killed one or both batteries
4. parasitic loss when the vehicle is off it could be one of dozens of different subsystems
Posted on 10/9/24 at 6:45 pm to NeilArmstrong1969
Post pics of battery terminals. Sounds like it could be a poor connection. Other option is bad alternator.
Bring it to where you got your battery at. Most have at least a 2 year warranty. AutoZone will battery test for free.
Bring it to where you got your battery at. Most have at least a 2 year warranty. AutoZone will battery test for free.
Posted on 10/9/24 at 7:00 pm to NeilArmstrong1969
Jiggle the franistat wire. The blue one with the white stripe. It is a common problem on these vehicles.
ETA: get the auto parts store to check the battery and the alternator. They could be producing too many ohms, which could blow out the franistat. The franistat can be hard to get to. Usually under the dash near the steering column up above the brake pedal.
ETA: get the auto parts store to check the battery and the alternator. They could be producing too many ohms, which could blow out the franistat. The franistat can be hard to get to. Usually under the dash near the steering column up above the brake pedal.
This post was edited on 10/9/24 at 7:09 pm
Posted on 10/9/24 at 7:07 pm to uaslick
If it will start, drive to the nearest Auto Zone and they will check your battery and alternator at no charge.
Takes 5 minutes or less.
Takes 5 minutes or less.
Posted on 10/9/24 at 7:30 pm to Hogbit
quote:
Bad ground
Could be this. Had this happen on 2015 Suburban. Similar electrical issues. Wouldn’t even recognize FOB sometimes.
Posted on 10/9/24 at 7:34 pm to NeilArmstrong1969
Sounds like the alternator.
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