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Started By
Message
re: Advice for flooded home due to pipe burst
Posted on 2/18/21 at 8:16 am to stout
Posted on 2/18/21 at 8:16 am to stout
quote:
Move quickly and get it dry as fast as possible.
That’s what I’m thinking. Insulation, sheetrock, carpet, floors etc that is wet, rip it out. Then a week of drying studs and floors and bottom plates and $20k of remediation not needed?
Posted on 2/18/21 at 8:20 am to Azazello
My advice would be that next time you lose power in a deep freeze, you shut off the water and drain your pipes before you leave the house.
Posted on 2/18/21 at 8:22 am to Meauxjeaux
quote:
and $20k of remediation not needed?
It really isn't in most cases but honestly running a dehumidifier and air scrubber for a few days is a better safe than sorry approach and won't cost $20K.
Most molds aren't toxic despite what the media tells you. Most molds in the south are just some form of mildew actually. You can have it tested to be sure if any shows up. You can even get the test kit from Home Depot to do it yourself.
Test Kit
Treat everything you expose with a garden sprayer loaded with some antimicrobial. Don't use bleach, please. If you really want to you can also apply a primer made by Zinsser that has antimicrobial built-in.
This post was edited on 2/18/21 at 8:32 am
Posted on 2/18/21 at 8:24 am to stout
quote:
That's not how it works. You chose to come from out of state to work. That's not a justification to screw someone over and then when they or their insurance refuse to pay your bill you lien the property.
Except that it is...and you gave examples of it...I never said it was right or I agreed. No ones going to travel from multiple states away for 10% extra when the local companies are making the same amount.
Mitigation is by and large a scam in itself. The charges for it even at the best of times is laughable for very basic equipment and essentially unskilled labor.
Posted on 2/18/21 at 8:24 am to Meauxjeaux
quote:
This Texas scenario is way different than the summer south Louisiana scenario.
No. I had an attic pipe burst in January 2010 or so due to multiple days of subfreezing weather. All floors down to the slab were replaced. All walls below 4 feet were replaced. All furniture. Half the cabinets. All doors. All insulation in the attic and in the walls. Half the ceilings. Full mold remediation. It will warm up to mold supporting temperatures before all the wet material can be removed.
Final bill was well over 140k and I was homeless for 5 months. We're not talking about dropping a gallon of water. It's INCHES of water in the house and is in everything. This will be no different from a summer S. La scenario in scale or mitigation.
quote:Mine was against my homeowner's policy, which was canceled pretty much the instant they stroked the last check. I did have a flood policy, too, but it was definitely the homeowner's policy that paid to rebuild the house.
I am guessing busted pipes will fall under homeowners and not flood I hope so for those affected
This post was edited on 2/18/21 at 8:34 am
Posted on 2/18/21 at 8:31 am to baldona
quote:
No ones going to travel from multiple states away for 10% extra
They are allowed 20% overhead and profit on top of Xactimate pricing if the job justifies it. That is more than fair. If you can't make it on that, then just stay home.
The real reason people chase storms is to make a big lick and usually because they don't have enough work at home. All of the Houston people still working in Lake Charles aren't here because they were so swamped with jobs there. So with that being said, live with what is allowed or don't come IMO. Some of the pricing in Xactimate is way MORE than generous if you know how to bid properly.
Do you really need $30 per LF to put up a treated privacy fence when pre-storm it was $19? Sure material and labor went up but Xactimate allowed for storm surge pricing to account for that yet some people are out there trying to bill $38. Just greedy.
Posted on 2/18/21 at 8:34 am to Azazello
1) shut off water to mitigate more damage.
2) take pictures or video of the damage. cant have too many pics/videos
3) shop vace/mop up all the water
4) remove all wet Sheetrock.
5) get dehumidifiers if you have access to them
6) run the heat if power is restored. adding heat will decrease the relative humidity (war air can hold more moisture the cold air) but will not remove moisture from the air.
7) only repair what is needed for functionality/life safety until adjuster comes out
2) take pictures or video of the damage. cant have too many pics/videos
3) shop vace/mop up all the water
4) remove all wet Sheetrock.
5) get dehumidifiers if you have access to them
6) run the heat if power is restored. adding heat will decrease the relative humidity (war air can hold more moisture the cold air) but will not remove moisture from the air.
7) only repair what is needed for functionality/life safety until adjuster comes out
Posted on 2/18/21 at 8:34 am to Azazello
1) After you shut water off to the house take pics and videos of the damage.
2) Call a water restoration company and have them come out. They won’t start immediately, but will get you scheduled. The clean-up and drying is considered an Emergency action to prevent further damage and is covered by your insurance (if you have the right policy(ies) like I write
). If you do not have a restoration action then you risk the insurance company not paying on the claim because you did not act in preventing further damage.
3) File the claim as soon as you hang up with restoration company. I know this sounds backwards, but in an event like this you want to hurry and get on the schedule of a restoration company. With the claim and policy number, give it to the restoration company so that they can bill accordingly with your carriers coding system so that it gets paid faster.
4) If you can pay for the down payment to get the restoration process going.. do so, your carrier has like 14 days or so to reimburse you.. otherwise they may take up to 90 days to pay the restoration company.
5) Hire a plumber if they are not already associated with your restoration company. Typically they do the work together.
6) Meet with the adjuster at your house from the insurance company
7) Once you have the response from the adjuster share it with the plumber, Contractor you hire for floors ceiling walls etc, and restoration company. They will work within the parameters of what was approved by your carrier, and even negotiate more funds if needed.
NOTE: INSURANCE COMPANIES DO NOT PAY TO FIX YOUR PIPES, ONLY THE DAMAGE TO THE HOME. YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR FIXING YOUR PIPES. However, most restoration companies that partner with plumbers will eat the cost of the plumbing work...
2) Call a water restoration company and have them come out. They won’t start immediately, but will get you scheduled. The clean-up and drying is considered an Emergency action to prevent further damage and is covered by your insurance (if you have the right policy(ies) like I write
). If you do not have a restoration action then you risk the insurance company not paying on the claim because you did not act in preventing further damage.
3) File the claim as soon as you hang up with restoration company. I know this sounds backwards, but in an event like this you want to hurry and get on the schedule of a restoration company. With the claim and policy number, give it to the restoration company so that they can bill accordingly with your carriers coding system so that it gets paid faster.
4) If you can pay for the down payment to get the restoration process going.. do so, your carrier has like 14 days or so to reimburse you.. otherwise they may take up to 90 days to pay the restoration company.
5) Hire a plumber if they are not already associated with your restoration company. Typically they do the work together.
6) Meet with the adjuster at your house from the insurance company
7) Once you have the response from the adjuster share it with the plumber, Contractor you hire for floors ceiling walls etc, and restoration company. They will work within the parameters of what was approved by your carrier, and even negotiate more funds if needed.
NOTE: INSURANCE COMPANIES DO NOT PAY TO FIX YOUR PIPES, ONLY THE DAMAGE TO THE HOME. YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR FIXING YOUR PIPES. However, most restoration companies that partner with plumbers will eat the cost of the plumbing work...
Posted on 2/18/21 at 8:43 am to baldona
quote:After Katrina outdoor tree cutting and debris removal was relatively cheap because of all of the out of state companies coming in. Actually, it was very cheap. $150 per 80 ft pine cut down and removed.
In a situation like this, the billing is out of control because if you don’t pay it someone else will. There’s not enough help to go around. If you have to come from out of state, of course the bills will be incredibly high
Posted on 2/18/21 at 9:01 am to deathvalleygrassmmmm
Greatly appreciate the advice everyone.
This is extremely helpful, I really appreciate your advice. I will keep this in mind in 100 years when Texas has another artic blast.
GFY
quote:
My advice would be that next time you lose power in a deep freeze, you shut off the water and drain your pipes before you leave the house.
This is extremely helpful, I really appreciate your advice. I will keep this in mind in 100 years when Texas has another artic blast.
GFY
Posted on 2/18/21 at 9:11 am to Azazello
You’re welcome. It gets below 20 degrees in Dallas every single year. The year of the super bowl, it was frozen here for a week too. Not this cold, but definitely cold enough to freeze plumbing in a poorly insulated 1930s house.
Posted on 2/18/21 at 9:35 am to Azazello
I have never had to deal with it myself, but had some family members do this post-Katrina and had little headaches (different situation entirely, but makes sense to me):
Go in with at least a 2 person team. One takes as many pictures as possible as they walk through, the other shoots a video as they walk through. Open all drawers to your furniture and take pictures, shoot video, and narrate.
Open walls and remove cabinets after pictures and video to expose everything. Then repeat pictures, video & narration during and after.
Begin treating studs & subfloors for mold.
Go in with at least a 2 person team. One takes as many pictures as possible as they walk through, the other shoots a video as they walk through. Open all drawers to your furniture and take pictures, shoot video, and narrate.
Open walls and remove cabinets after pictures and video to expose everything. Then repeat pictures, video & narration during and after.
Begin treating studs & subfloors for mold.
Posted on 2/18/21 at 9:54 am to Azazello
Depends on the kind of floors and walls, but
Turn off water, call plumber
Wet vac dry all the floors you can
Mix baking soda and carpet cleaning powder and spread around wetter areas
if sheetrock is wet it is recommended you remove to a few inches above the water marks as quickly as possible.
Keep your HVAC on
Turn off water, call plumber
Wet vac dry all the floors you can
Mix baking soda and carpet cleaning powder and spread around wetter areas
if sheetrock is wet it is recommended you remove to a few inches above the water marks as quickly as possible.
Keep your HVAC on
Posted on 2/18/21 at 10:56 am to Jake88
quote:
After Katrina outdoor tree cutting and debris removal was relatively cheap because of all of the out of state companies coming in. Actually, it was very cheap. $150 per 80 ft pine cut down and removed.
After Katrina, tree guys were making big money hauling in and paid by the tonnage from FEMA.
If you pay an extra 150 per tree, they were double billing and screwing you.
Posted on 2/18/21 at 11:10 am to Meauxjeaux
Why the hell would you not cut off water at the street and drain the pipes in the house if you were not going to be home??
Posted on 2/18/21 at 11:13 am to Tigerpaw123
quote:
I am guessing busted pipes will fall under homeowners and not flood I hope so for those affected
I knew a girl who's hot water heater leaked (was in the attic) her insurance said it fell under flood insurance.
Posted on 2/18/21 at 11:14 am to Azazello
Document with a lot of photos.
The insurance may have cleanup companies they could recommend or on contract.
I used my own as was not happy with them, but the equipment will be needed to dry out stuff. Insurance paid it.
I used my own contractor to replace/repair drywall, baseboards, paint, etc. The cleanup company was outrageous with their estimate and I did not know the quality of their work. Insurance paid it.
Check you plumbing carefully because you do not want it to happen again.
I went with re-routing hot and cold to PEX in the attic as opposed to remaining with the original copper pipe in the slab. I paid it.
It was a hot water line that burst last summer and did not want it to happen again with that or the cold line.
My house is over 50 yrs old.
The insurance may have cleanup companies they could recommend or on contract.
I used my own as was not happy with them, but the equipment will be needed to dry out stuff. Insurance paid it.
I used my own contractor to replace/repair drywall, baseboards, paint, etc. The cleanup company was outrageous with their estimate and I did not know the quality of their work. Insurance paid it.
Check you plumbing carefully because you do not want it to happen again.
I went with re-routing hot and cold to PEX in the attic as opposed to remaining with the original copper pipe in the slab. I paid it.
It was a hot water line that burst last summer and did not want it to happen again with that or the cold line.
My house is over 50 yrs old.
This post was edited on 2/18/21 at 11:20 am
Posted on 2/18/21 at 12:01 pm to UAinSOUTHAL
Still no response from insurance, my friend is builder and came by to take a look - damage is much larger than I thought.
Water is remaining off for now - all of the copper pipes in the kitchen are wrapped in asbestos.
Noted the advice about cutting the water off in the future. I was checking on the house every ~6 hours and had everything with a small stream going - the burst pipe is no surprise on an outside wall.
Appreciate the help
Water is remaining off for now - all of the copper pipes in the kitchen are wrapped in asbestos.
Noted the advice about cutting the water off in the future. I was checking on the house every ~6 hours and had everything with a small stream going - the burst pipe is no surprise on an outside wall.
Appreciate the help
Posted on 2/18/21 at 12:06 pm to Azazello
Personally, I would make that asbestos disappear before the cleanup folks arrive. Their report will include that information and your insurance company could non renew because of it.
Posted on 2/18/21 at 12:23 pm to Meauxjeaux
quote:Not really, because the tree people left the pile in the street waiting for the parish to pick it up. I had to get on them to come clear it away themselves.
After Katrina, tree guys were making big money hauling in and paid by the tonnage from FEMA.
If you pay an extra 150 per tree, they were double billing and screwing you
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