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Message
Vinyl Plank Flooring (Update on page 1)
Posted on 6/3/21 at 2:45 pm
Posted on 6/3/21 at 2:45 pm
Has anyone here installed a quality vinyl plank flooring in your house? I have two twin toddlers and a golden retriever so I’d like to replace the old crappy laminate floors with something durable. The wood-look vinyl plank seems to be a good option. Some questions:
1. I’d like to get boards with a thick wear layer that have some weight to them. Should I not go smaller than 5mm thick?
2. Do I need a rubber pad on the bottom of the flooring or should I buy the flooring with the pad already on the bottom of the planks?
3. Vinyl seems to have great durability and wear resistance. I know I would never mistake wood-look vinyl as wood but does the heavy-duty plank still feel high quality and quiet underfoot?
4. I’ll be installing this flooring myself and plan to just remove the flooring and quarter-round to put it in. How do you assure proper spacing from the baseboards? I saw one guy get some 1/4” spacers and placing them with painter’s tape along the edge of the room. That’s likely what I’ll do.
5. Best method for cutting the boards? I was thinking a chop saw would be the fastest and offer the smoothest cut.
Any info is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
1. I’d like to get boards with a thick wear layer that have some weight to them. Should I not go smaller than 5mm thick?
2. Do I need a rubber pad on the bottom of the flooring or should I buy the flooring with the pad already on the bottom of the planks?
3. Vinyl seems to have great durability and wear resistance. I know I would never mistake wood-look vinyl as wood but does the heavy-duty plank still feel high quality and quiet underfoot?
4. I’ll be installing this flooring myself and plan to just remove the flooring and quarter-round to put it in. How do you assure proper spacing from the baseboards? I saw one guy get some 1/4” spacers and placing them with painter’s tape along the edge of the room. That’s likely what I’ll do.
5. Best method for cutting the boards? I was thinking a chop saw would be the fastest and offer the smoothest cut.
Any info is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
This post was edited on 6/16/21 at 9:34 pm
11
Posted on 6/3/21 at 3:08 pm to bapple
I installed some with the rubber pad already on the planks. They are quiet and hold up to a 3 year old and two dogs.
Best method to cut is a razor blade to score it with a straight edge and a 2x4 to snap it over. If you have weird angles or edges to cut, a multitool will get the job done. Get you a rubber mallet, a pull bar, a broken piece to tap the two sections together (you don't need to spend the money on a tapping block), and some knee pads. Super easy to install.
Best method to cut is a razor blade to score it with a straight edge and a 2x4 to snap it over. If you have weird angles or edges to cut, a multitool will get the job done. Get you a rubber mallet, a pull bar, a broken piece to tap the two sections together (you don't need to spend the money on a tapping block), and some knee pads. Super easy to install.
Posted on 6/3/21 at 3:49 pm to bapple
The more padding under the plank the better. It makes it quieter, softer on the feet and warmer in the winter. We used the ones with padding adhered to the plank from from the factory. No complaints
Posted on 6/3/21 at 9:11 pm to bapple
Installed Cali bamboo long boards in my last house. It exceeded expectations. I thought I wouldn't care for it. It's some tough shite and looks great. Can negotiate the price with them directly most likely. Came in perfect condition with their freight shipping.
Posted on 6/3/21 at 9:16 pm to bapple
You are more than likely going to need to rip planks also.
Posted on 6/3/21 at 9:42 pm to bapple
quote:
How do you assure proper spacing from the baseboards? I saw one guy get some 1/4” spacers and placing them with painter’s tape along the edge of the room.
If the new flooring is about 1/4" I use scrap flooring as spacers. You can also use new plank on the first wall as a spacer temporarily until you have some scraps.
Posted on 6/4/21 at 12:11 am to bapple
Helping a buddy do a remodel job, more of the get this, get that guy but do it. You will not be disappointed, especially if you have kids or dogs.
Get the Vinyl with pad already on the bottom.
Get the Vinyl with pad already on the bottom.
Posted on 6/4/21 at 1:54 am to bapple
Every vinyl I look at has complaints of planks coming up, what brands don't have planks come apart?
Posted on 6/4/21 at 11:21 am to bapple
Glue it down no need for spacers it doesn’t move
Posted on 6/4/21 at 6:18 pm to bapple
Thickness of the product has nothing to do with the durability of the top. What you are looking for the wear layer thickness measured in Mils. 12 mil or greater is where you need to start. All of the big name brands will have a decent locking system. When you go with the cheapest locking plank you can find is where you will run into problems. What most people don’t realize is the locking system isn’t designed to be beat on or locked multiple times. The floor has to be super flat as well or the locking system will have issues. It is designed to lock in place, not flex in place. As far as cutting it, scoring it with a razor will allow you to make clean cuts. They make a razor chopper that would make your life a lot easier, but they are pricey for one job. Go to a local flooring stores get multiple prices. Ask about wear layer, flooring warranties aren’t worth the piece of paper they are written on.
Posted on 6/4/21 at 9:09 pm to bapple
quote:
Best method for cutting the boards? I was thinking a chop saw would be the fastest and offer the smoothest cut
If you are doing multiple rooms and hallways I'd pick up a cheap Skil floor saw. A jigsaw and oscillating saw will come in handy as well if you have access to them.
Posted on 6/4/21 at 11:21 pm to bapple
Go to lumber liquidators. They’re knowledgeable. They’re app allows you to take a picture of your room and apply the flooring.
The flooring choice will determine the pad. If it has a pad, you may only need a vapor barrier.
Use a chop saw and table saw with 80T.
Amazon has spacers that work better than the kit.
LINK
The flooring choice will determine the pad. If it has a pad, you may only need a vapor barrier.
Use a chop saw and table saw with 80T.
Amazon has spacers that work better than the kit.
LINK
Posted on 6/5/21 at 12:08 am to D844
My installer suggested the prescott series from msi , the 20 mil option.
LINK /
As its been stated, the top mil layer is what makes it durable & 20mil+ is what you want.
When it comes to a quality / most LVP they already have a underlayment pad attached to the plank & dont think you will gain any benefit to adding any sort of underlayer & will most likely void warranty, read the package / directions of the product....
1/4 round looks very cheesy in my opinion & dont recommend. Will definetly make the job look like it was an afterthought..
Going to be alot of work, do it right so it looks great. Baseboards are cheap......
LINK /
As its been stated, the top mil layer is what makes it durable & 20mil+ is what you want.
When it comes to a quality / most LVP they already have a underlayment pad attached to the plank & dont think you will gain any benefit to adding any sort of underlayer & will most likely void warranty, read the package / directions of the product....
1/4 round looks very cheesy in my opinion & dont recommend. Will definetly make the job look like it was an afterthought..
Going to be alot of work, do it right so it looks great. Baseboards are cheap......
This post was edited on 6/5/21 at 12:12 am
Posted on 6/5/21 at 8:14 am to slater
Did you have the MSI prescott series installed? I'm looking at the same stuff.
Posted on 6/5/21 at 11:41 am to LEASTBAY
quote:
Cali bamboo
I got the classic acacia. I love this stuff
Posted on 6/5/21 at 2:49 pm to D844
Thanks for all the replies. I do have an oscillating multitool and circular saw. My pops has a miter saw but from what I've seen and the flooring I want to use, I should be able to score with a square and get that nice clean cut. Which leads to my second question...
I've been looking at their CoreLuxe flooring because it seems to be a good balance of reasonably-priced and durable with good reviews. Has anyone used this stuff? It appears to have a 20mil wear layer and is total of 5mm thick, plus the pad at the bottom.
A local contractor buddy of mine suggested painting down a concrete sealer as a vapor barrier when I pull up the old floors. I have carpet in the bedroom I plan to work in plus some really shitty old laminate flooring in the hallway the previous owners left. I highly doubt they did any sort of vapor barrier since they cut corners for everything else in this place.
Here's the type that I like and it seems to be well-liked by reviewers. Any input from y'all is appreciated. Thanks!
______________________________
UPDATE: Here is the flooring I purchased today, along with some poly vapor seal, tape, and install kit. This flooring is 7mm thick, plus an underpad and has a 28mil wear layer. I think it'll survive my kids and dog for years to come. I'll update the thread after install.
https://www.llflooring.com/p/coreluxe-ultra-7mm-and-pad-brazilian-koa-engineered-vinyl-plank-flooring-10043228.html
quote:
Go to lumber liquidators.
I've been looking at their CoreLuxe flooring because it seems to be a good balance of reasonably-priced and durable with good reviews. Has anyone used this stuff? It appears to have a 20mil wear layer and is total of 5mm thick, plus the pad at the bottom.
A local contractor buddy of mine suggested painting down a concrete sealer as a vapor barrier when I pull up the old floors. I have carpet in the bedroom I plan to work in plus some really shitty old laminate flooring in the hallway the previous owners left. I highly doubt they did any sort of vapor barrier since they cut corners for everything else in this place.
Here's the type that I like and it seems to be well-liked by reviewers. Any input from y'all is appreciated. Thanks!
______________________________
UPDATE: Here is the flooring I purchased today, along with some poly vapor seal, tape, and install kit. This flooring is 7mm thick, plus an underpad and has a 28mil wear layer. I think it'll survive my kids and dog for years to come. I'll update the thread after install.
https://www.llflooring.com/p/coreluxe-ultra-7mm-and-pad-brazilian-koa-engineered-vinyl-plank-flooring-10043228.html
This post was edited on 6/6/21 at 6:54 pm
Posted on 6/16/21 at 9:32 pm to bapple
Final update: The floor has been installed. I purchased the 7mm Brazilian Koa from LL Flooring and it looks great. Installation was very smooth and I was able to roll pretty quickly once I got the hang of dealing with the planks and how they lock together.
Old Flooring was crappy vinyl with gaps everywhere. Plus the vapor barrier wasn't complete and there as a bit of mold at the end of this hallway. I guess for the previous home owner it was easier to let the mold grow than buy another cheap roll of vapor barrier.
Here's the new flooring during install. It actually worked out that my hallway would fit exactly 7 boards without having to rip. I just eyeballed the spacing under the baseboards and didn't sweat it since vinyl really doesn't expand like wood or laminate. This made install super smooth without super precise cuts.
And the finished product with PVC quarter round installed (still unpainted though):
If you have any questions let me know!
Old Flooring was crappy vinyl with gaps everywhere. Plus the vapor barrier wasn't complete and there as a bit of mold at the end of this hallway. I guess for the previous home owner it was easier to let the mold grow than buy another cheap roll of vapor barrier.
Here's the new flooring during install. It actually worked out that my hallway would fit exactly 7 boards without having to rip. I just eyeballed the spacing under the baseboards and didn't sweat it since vinyl really doesn't expand like wood or laminate. This made install super smooth without super precise cuts.
And the finished product with PVC quarter round installed (still unpainted though):
If you have any questions let me know!
This post was edited on 6/16/21 at 9:34 pm
Posted on 6/16/21 at 11:51 pm to bapple
Meh, you didn't nub back the shoe mold where it meets the casing on that door. Do it again.
Don't know why people get so intimidated about doing LVL. Very good result with basic tools and planning. I've installed a few thousand sqft of the stuff and the only items I have that you wouldn't find outside of a specialty tool store are 10" and 12" PCD tipped laminate flooring saw blades for my miter and jobsite table saw. If you are doing small and occasional projects buying $100+ saw blades isn't worth it, they are a must when doing several large rooms or a whole house though.
Don't know why people get so intimidated about doing LVL. Very good result with basic tools and planning. I've installed a few thousand sqft of the stuff and the only items I have that you wouldn't find outside of a specialty tool store are 10" and 12" PCD tipped laminate flooring saw blades for my miter and jobsite table saw. If you are doing small and occasional projects buying $100+ saw blades isn't worth it, they are a must when doing several large rooms or a whole house though.
This post was edited on 6/17/21 at 12:06 am
Posted on 6/17/21 at 6:45 am to bapple
Wow. You picked the exact flooring we did and have been waiting for. Thanks for posting pictures. Looks great
I don’t there is any way I could lay it myself. Gonna have to be professional install. Think it’s 1700 sqft that would need to be laid.
I don’t there is any way I could lay it myself. Gonna have to be professional install. Think it’s 1700 sqft that would need to be laid.
This post was edited on 6/17/21 at 6:49 am
Posted on 6/17/21 at 7:08 am to Clames
quote:
Meh, you didn't nub back the shoe mold where it meets the casing on that door.
First thing I noticed as well.
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