Favorite team:LSU 
Location:Capital City
Biography:
Interests:
Occupation:
Number of Posts:12217
Registered on:10/22/2010
Online Status:Not Online

Recent Posts

Message
quote:

How deep is deep enough? I remember going over to Asheville NC and finding an area with no water. Their lines were buried to the required depth, but the required depth was too shallow for that very cold spell.


The coldest it’s ever been in BR where I live was last year during the snow when it was 7 degrees. Our water actually comes in underground and feeds into each part of the house underground as well. I wondered if the ambient heat in my attic would keep it warm enough to not freeze and all was good. Otherwise I would have bought some pipe heating cable.
quote:

So ha. Poor people 1 rich people 0


:lol: I have two gas water heater tanks in parallel feeding my whole house. Unless my gas supply fails I’ll always have redundancy!
quote:

Even the gas tankless water heaters require electricity to run.


True. Its control circuit requires some power. Granted it isn’t much but still needs it.

Also note the components on the heater are more susceptible to water freezing since it isn’t a constant source of heat. Keep an eye on it.

re: Fireworks off Highland Road

Posted by bapple on 1/17/26 at 8:56 pm to
You sure it’s fireworks? Sounded deep, not like a supersonic crack of a bullet but seemed far away and can’t confirm.

All the dogs in the neighborhood are going nuts.
quote:

Yea but I want one to run as much as possible otherwise it seems like a waste.


If you don’t have heat pumps or electric water heaters, a regular 20kW would work just fine. Have them install a load management system (prevents overloading) or put soft starters on all your units. My parents have about 10 tons worth of HVAC and their 24kW Honeywell can handle it all with start kits on them.

If you have heat pumps (with resistive heating) or electric water heaters (again, high electrical power consumption) you’d likely need something bigger. If your only concern is the AC, you can reduce the startup current for each unit.

If you need me to do a load calculation for you I can shoot you an email.

re: IST 11/26/2025

Posted by bapple on 11/26/25 at 5:30 pm to
Watched a 80-100ish pound lone button but but then momma popped out. Going home with some meat!

re: IST 11/26/2025

Posted by bapple on 11/26/25 at 4:52 pm to
quote:

ETA. Acorns raining.


The amount that I’ve seen produced this year is insane. An acquaintance of mine is an arborist and said that certain oak trees have a 2-year memory when it comes to producing acorns. Most of them remember the drought in 2023 and have produced accordingly. He said expect about a 50% reduction next year.

re: IST 11/26/2025

Posted by bapple on 11/26/25 at 3:37 pm to
Near Selma, AR
Calm winds, 57 degrees
Aero Precision AR10 .308, 150gr Barnes TTSX handload

Looking to bring home some hog or doe meat. LFG.
However fun it may have been to drive, it was never a real Supra.
quote:

The AI data centers are using almost every form of power production, wind, solar, gas, and nuclear.


Which of these forms of energy are controllable by human input? Which are weather-driven and not dependent on human input?

Most data centers run on a 5-nines level of reliability (99.999%). Which form of power can provide 24/7/365 with brief periods of downtime for maintenance?

You may be hearing they are using all forms of energy but if you actually look at their actions, they are going for gas turbines first. With a vast pipeline network and near unlimited gas, it makes the most sense.

Until a hospital erects a wind farm or solar farm to backup systems that directly support human life, I will continue to see and believe that baseload, dispatchable power sources (gas, coal, nuclear) are more reliable and preferred. If not for the massive subsidies, “green” energy would not exist in the free market.
Even more entertaining has been the about-face from Big Tech that pushed for wind and solar for decades. All of a sudden they need REAL power for their big facilities and are falling over themselves for gas turbines.

Reality has a way of dealing with stupid. Sometimes it just takes time.
Oak Hills. Great location and lots of young families with kids playing in the neighborhood.
quote:

Is this just a new sales pitch or is there a legit reason to install surge protectors?


The more efficient and new items get, the more intricate the electronics get. If you notice, almost every appliance has its own circuit board and electronics inside. With the addition of tvs, routers, variable-speed AC compressors, etc. into homes the greater chance of these items becoming unusable in the event of a lightning surge.

So do I think you need surge protectors at each AC compressor? Not necessarily but it’s a good idea to have one on your main panel as others have suggested. I have an Eaton one from HD in my panel and my house was built in 1987. Installed it myself pretty easily - required a 2-pole 50A breaker and then landed a wire on the neutral bus and ground bus. Done.
quote:

I don't understand the concern? Is it messing with your grass?


Yes. It completely smothers the ground and makes the grass grow in all patchy. I still am amazed at the amount of acorns they drop each year. It’s mind blowing.

Removing Oak Tree Acorns - Best Way?

Posted by bapple on 9/8/25 at 6:24 pm
I have two live oaks out front and one on the neighbor’s property extends a bit on my property line.

It is a battle every single year dealing with the acorns. I usually blow them into a pile then bag them or use the shop vac. Takes an insanely long time though.

I’ve seen some rolling acorn pickers, yard brushes, dethacters, etc. but none specifically note being able to pick up small live oak acorns.

Any advice is appreciated before I waste an entire day on these before the trees drop even more and I do it all over again.

Thanks in advance. :cheers:
quote:

I am seriously thinking about restoring my 72 short bed with a small block crate engine and transmission from around 2006 or so and keeping it running until I reach room temperature.


I could see restomods becoming more common in the coming years. Sounds like yours would be an LS engine build and you could easily get 300-500k miles out of that motor.
quote:

6.2L anything is risky.


The L87 (6.2L) started having issues right around 2020. The going rumor is GM went to a cheap manufacturer during Covid for their crankshafts. These cranks have a very rough surface finish and some have been out of spec enough to impact the inside of the block. They also become oil starved and start spinning bearings. This video is illuminating:

LINK


The most interesting part is the 6.2L versions in the GM sports cars (the LT1 motor) have not had any of the same issues. So they either get worked more in the factory or have a completely different supplier for cranks.

Switch your oil to 0W-40 and pucker up and hope your crank doesn’t fail.
quote:

So to make this trick reliable, you need a top end engine and transmission rebuild? No thanks.



Most modern vehicles aren't lasting as long as previous generations. So yes, if you get a used one in good shape and bulletproof it with a little front-end investment you should get another 10 or so years out of it.
I can't speak specifically to potential electrical or electronics issues but I bought a used 2018 Yukon Denali in early 2024. Did a full DOD/AFM delete and got a new cam and tune.. absolutely worth it - runs like a scalded dog.

LINK

As for the 10 speed, there are some kits you can buy to get upgraded parts and improve reliability. I'd advise one of the full billet steel valve bodies and an upgraded torque converter. Luckily my original 10 speed is running fine but if it were to shite the bed I'd make these upgrades.

Those are the main 2 reliability issues you may be faced with. Otherwise, comfortable and hauls the family nicely. Got 112k now on it and running strong.

EDIT: I would also run 0W-40 oil instead of the factory-advised 0W-20. We are in a very hot southern climate and the recent issues with newer 6.2s spinning bearings led me to research and change viscosity.
quote:

How long would you say this typically lasts? 6 months? 1 year? More?


As long as you don’t wash the windshield with a strong degreaser like dawn or the purple stuff and keep it free from bug guts and dirt it should last indefinitely. The main thing is not letting stuff settle and adhere to the glass. Hard water spots also will prevent water from beading up.

So if you take a long drive and have a ton of bugs on the windshield just use the washers and clean up the rest of the windshield not too long after the guts are there. Same for if you wash the car with a hose - don’t let the water cook on the windshield and sit there for weeks.