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You might have aluminum wiring which is notorious for corroded connections.

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This is true. Unless a sealant is used to coat the exposed aluminum, it’s just a matter of time before it oxidizes and starts to turn into powder.

My cousin called me last week because some of the loads in his house weren’t working and turns out he lost one of the hot wires to his panel. Ended up being a faulted underground aluminum wire and is only a 5 year old house in a newer neighborhood. Even one small puncture in the wire can allow moisture to intrude and oxidize the conductor very quickly. I was even surprised the wire was still able to conduct electricity at all before it finally faulted.

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but at least the new one displays a solid red led

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What does the manual say the red light means? That would possibly point you in the right direction. Your line wires or load wires could have an issue or maybe a short downstream. Without knowing what the red light means it’s hard to diagnose.

As others have mentioned, we need to know a bit more information.

Firstly, how many 240V appliances do you have? Air conditioner(s) is a given but what about cooktop, oven, water heater, dryer? Those will all quickly increase the capacity needed from your generator. As someone else mentioned, the easiest way to find your max current draw is to fire up all those appliances and put a meter on your main feeders coming into your house. And as mentioned by someone else, you can probably utilize a smaller generator if you put a soft starter on your AC unit. I have two 3 ton units both with soft starters and my 22kW Honeywell handles them very well.

Having said all that, the best option is likely a Generac, Kohler, or Cummins air cooled. If you go with a liquid cooled you are going to be way above what you actually need to back up the loads in your house and it will require more maintenance and more $$$.

But since you gave very little detail, you could also rig up a tri-fuel portable if you'd give us an idea of what your electrical loads look like.

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If just a regular power outage I can run the furnaces off my smaller generator, they each require around 400W - 500W running with their single speed blowers.

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Just gotta make sure to bond the ground and neutral with a jumper to avoid the floating neutral. I've read the control boards in gas furnaces check the bonding between the two and will shut down if the check fails.

Straight in the trash. Nothing will happen to you other than getting more notices from collection agencies that are out of the state. It is a civil violation, not a criminal one, and they have no proof you received the notice.

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This one has good ratings and matches our oven. When our old LG shits the bed this one will take its place.

From the reviews I've read, when you get over the $600-700 mark you go into a higher level of quality and more years of serviceable life. That doesn't necessarily hold true for every single one of them but the majority of higher-end units will likely have more robust build quality.

I have also heard the same about Bosch and higher end Kitchenaid units standing out over others.

If you look at the research that's been done by the USCCA (US concealed carry association) they concluded that any security mechanism that prevents quick entry gives you the most important weapon in the arsenal - time. If it takes considerably longer for a would-be burglar to get into your house, they are lot more likely to move on and choose a different target. A random opportunistic criminal does not want to solve a rubix cube - they want a quick entry and a quick exit. So do everything in your power to make that process more timely and difficult:

1. Get a security system yard sign even if you don't have one
2. Add longer screws to the strike plates (as suggested)
3. Get motion lights and outdoor security cameras
4. Get a dog that will make noise if something is amiss
5. Get a security system
6. Take care of the threat if a criminal is dumb enough to come through that threshold with all the obstacles you placed in front of him/her

Good luck. :cheers:

I bought one of the portable thermal cameras (Klein) from Home Depot a while back. It’s been quite useful in diagnosing random things from a cylinder misfire to making sure my furnace was pumping out enough heat during the snow.

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Thanks. So I assume driving a Z71 in trailering mode isn’t a workaround either?

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That would essentially be the same as getting the range device. It is only electronically disabled but not mechanically deleted. Still better than having the system operate in 4 cylinder mode constantly but mechanical delete is the best.

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Back to your 2018 Yukon post (all very impressive and informative by the way). How is it doing? Any issues, leaks, etc?

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The engine is in great shape. It was already working and not actually broken when I did the delete. But the mechanic told me it looked great internally and obviously all gaskets were replaced so no leaks or anything.

The thing that will probably eventually give me fits is the 10 speed :lol:. They aren’t exactly made for longevity and mine is very finicky about temperature and hard shifting sometimes. The torque converter is fine so as long as it’s shifting and driving normally I’ll just keep rolling until everything fails.

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Please explain to me why you are still at risk for failure after installing the Range part. Thank you in advance.

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You reduce the chances a good bit since the lifter isn't collapsing regularly. But you can still get clogs in the port that makes the lifter collapse and it won't return to its normal state. So yea, the Range Disabler helps a bunch but there is still a small risk there.