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Fruit trees - which ones to choose?
Posted on 3/18/25 at 12:42 pm
Posted on 3/18/25 at 12:42 pm
Hey all, looking for opinions. I’ve done apples with little success and plums with zero success. Between floods, freezes, and droughts every time I’ve planted I’ve found a way to kill them.
I’m comfortable choosing varieties based on LSU agcenter recommendations, but do any of you have success with pears, plums, or apples?
Any experiences would be helpful. I’ve learned nothing in multiple tries apparently.
I’m comfortable choosing varieties based on LSU agcenter recommendations, but do any of you have success with pears, plums, or apples?
Any experiences would be helpful. I’ve learned nothing in multiple tries apparently.
Posted on 3/18/25 at 12:54 pm to UpstairsComputer
Pears are relatively easy
Apples can be done but just does not get cold enough down here (need so many chilled hours)
Plums, are tough , takes a lot of spraying
citrus, figs, blueberry, muscadine, pecan, mayhaw, could be considered based on soil conditions
Apples can be done but just does not get cold enough down here (need so many chilled hours)
Plums, are tough , takes a lot of spraying
citrus, figs, blueberry, muscadine, pecan, mayhaw, could be considered based on soil conditions
Posted on 3/18/25 at 1:16 pm to UpstairsComputer
Plums and peaches have a lot of disease pressure in South LA. I spray every 10-14 days during the growing season. Pears are a little easier. Blueberries, blackberries, figs, muscadine, and citrus are all easier. Fig trees are like a gateway drug. If I could only have one tree it would be a fig.
Posted on 3/18/25 at 1:28 pm to AyyyBaw
I have a great fig tree... produces more than I can eat or preserve. I may give Pears a go if both commenters have had trouble with plums. Thanks for the input!
Posted on 3/18/25 at 1:49 pm to UpstairsComputer
Most pears need cross pollination, just an FYI. I have an orient and pineapple.
Posted on 3/18/25 at 2:06 pm to UpstairsComputer
As stated, those that you don’t have to constantly spray for insects. Those include figs, loquats, Japanese permissions, hard “cooking” pears, perhaps the more cold tolerant citrus (satsumas, kumquats). I’ve had success with all these in BR - I haven’t even attempted to try some of those you mentioned because of the spraying requirements for insects + the lack of required chilling hours in some cases.
Blueberries might be possible, but you need fairly acidic soil for those to thrive, pH 4.5-5.5. I personally do blueberries in large containers where I can more easily acidify the planting media as my lawn soil alkaline, and it requires constant & long-term effort to effort to amend an alkaline soil to the proper acidity and to keep it there, but it can be done.
Blueberries might be possible, but you need fairly acidic soil for those to thrive, pH 4.5-5.5. I personally do blueberries in large containers where I can more easily acidify the planting media as my lawn soil alkaline, and it requires constant & long-term effort to effort to amend an alkaline soil to the proper acidity and to keep it there, but it can be done.
Posted on 3/18/25 at 2:09 pm to UpstairsComputer
In southwest Mississippi, Blueberries and figs require the least attention, produce well and takes really cold weather good.
Satsumas produce good but you will have to cover them in temps below 18 degrees. Other citrus varieties did not fare well, with the really cold temps of the last two years. I've had poor results with peaches or plums.
Satsumas produce good but you will have to cover them in temps below 18 degrees. Other citrus varieties did not fare well, with the really cold temps of the last two years. I've had poor results with peaches or plums.
Posted on 3/18/25 at 2:10 pm to UpstairsComputer
They take a little more care but as far as eating goes my favorites are the peach trees that I have. The varieties are Rio Grande and Flordaking. I'm still eating what I froze last summer. I spray them probably 3 times per year and prune once or twice. I like that I don't have to cover them up when it freezes.
Posted on 3/18/25 at 2:26 pm to UpstairsComputer
Just added a plum tree yesterday. Still waiting to see what beholds of my citrus since the snowstorm. I had to cut quite a bit back.
Posted on 3/18/25 at 2:37 pm to AyyyBaw
quote:
I spray every 10-14 days during the growing season.
What are you spraying on the plums? this is the second season my tree has thousands of tiny plums. Last year, it dropped them all. Im fertilizing like crazy right now.
Posted on 3/18/25 at 4:11 pm to UpstairsComputer
I'm planting two pineapple guava's this weekend.
Posted on 3/18/25 at 4:32 pm to UpstairsComputer
Trees that I know do well in La. are fig, cooking pear, Loquat aka Japanese Plum, persimmon, peach, and any citrus types.
I'm sure there are others, but the above are the ones I've either had or know people who've had them, and had them do well.
I'm sure there are others, but the above are the ones I've either had or know people who've had them, and had them do well.
Posted on 3/18/25 at 6:13 pm to UpstairsComputer
Anyone tried American persimmons or do the Japanese ones do better around here?? Thinking about planting one this spring.
I've pretty much never seen a fig tree struggle ever and they taste phenomenal when they're fresh off the tree. Climbing the trees and picking my grandpa's Brown Turkey figs are a great childhood memory.
If you're considering citrus, Owari Satsuma, Hamlin orange, Duncan or Ruby Red grapefruit, and Meyer lemons are pretty reliable in zone 8b, especially in a sheltered spot. I'm trying a red lime this year. Citrus trees grow fast AF and don't need a lot of water in our climate
I've pretty much never seen a fig tree struggle ever and they taste phenomenal when they're fresh off the tree. Climbing the trees and picking my grandpa's Brown Turkey figs are a great childhood memory.
If you're considering citrus, Owari Satsuma, Hamlin orange, Duncan or Ruby Red grapefruit, and Meyer lemons are pretty reliable in zone 8b, especially in a sheltered spot. I'm trying a red lime this year. Citrus trees grow fast AF and don't need a lot of water in our climate
Posted on 3/18/25 at 6:26 pm to CoachChappy
Mainly Captan for a fungicide but there are lots of different options.
Posted on 3/18/25 at 6:27 pm to Bigdawgb
Did someone say figs? LSU varieties, surprise, surprise, require zero attention. I got loads of Methley plums until it got diseased. The lifespan is typically 5-7 years. I only spray once, for Plum Curcullio, when plums are dime sized. I use deltamethrin just because I have it on hand. You may have a plum tree that is not self pollinated and drops its plums. Peaches are way too prone to insect attack for me. As mentioned, pears, especially Asian pears are easy and I don’t spray them at all.
Posted on 3/18/25 at 7:00 pm to Bigdawgb
quote:
Anyone tried American persimmons or do the Japanese ones do better around here?
I have both. I like the non astringent oriental persimmons personally. Persimmons are one of my favorite trees for wildlife because they usually attract deer during archery season. Dehydrated persimmons are probably my favorite dried fruit after mangos.
Posted on 3/27/25 at 10:15 am to Loup
quote:
I spray them probably 3 times per year
I bought two Florida King's and are about to plant. I know it's the wrong time of the year, but I have to try.
What do you spray and what triggers you to spray?
Posted on 3/27/25 at 10:32 am to Dock Holiday
quote:
What do you spray and what triggers you to spray?
I want to say the one I have has malathion and a copper fungicide in it. It's a Bonide product for sure, I think it's just called fruit tree spray. I'll check when I get home.
I usually spray right after the blooms drop, a few weeks out from when the peaches are ripe, and then again when it starts dropping leaves.
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