CrawDude

What brand of thermostat - Honeywell, Ecobee, Nest, …..?

Lawn Burweed. Winter annual weed. You’ll want to apply pre-emergent herbicide in fall, and likely a second application of pre-emergent 8 weeks later as you have a bad infestation.

Recommended pre-emergents for lawn burweed are herbicides with the active ingredients isoxaben (“Gallery”) or Simazine. In south LA apply in late Sept-early Oct and water in within a week or 2 in the absence of rain.

You won’t kill it all the first year, but you can kill the young immature seedling plants missed with the pre-emergent herbicides applications (look like little parsley plants) when they appear by spraying them with post -emergent herbicide in Jan, Feb. Once burweed matures and form stickers (seeds) forget it. Recommended post-emergent herbicides are provided in the fact sheets below.

Here are 2 fact sheets, Clemson & LSU.

Lawn Burweed - Clemson University

Lawn Burweed - LSU AgCenter

You are pretty limited. Sethoxydim post-emergent herbicide is recommended for post-emergent control of crabgrass and goosegrass in centipede lawns but it will kill the bermudagrass.

But honestly, if the crabgrass and goosegrass are mature, which I suspect they are at this time of the year, you are likely to have minimal efficacy using it, but you can try. Additionally in this heat, it’s going to be a major stress on the centipede. Being they are annual weeds, you just might want live with it now and focus on the fall & late winter pre-emergent applications that will be exceedingly effective on both crabgrass and goosegrass.

Remember, crabgrass seeds germinate at a soil temperature of 55 F (early-mid Feb application), goosegrass later, at a soil temperature of 70 F, so you might consider a late April-early May pre-emergent herbicide application as well. Dithopyr pre-emergent herbicide also has some post-emergent efficacy on very young crabgrass - consider using it.

I had major interior house reno 4 years ago. Entire house flooring (previously wood floors, ceramic tile, carpet) was replaced, all floating LVP, with exception of bathrooms (new ceramic tile). House is slab on grade (built in 1993). I worked with interior decorator - she recommended it - and had used it in other projects, including in high end homes. Apparently LVP became much more popular in my area after a major flooding event in 2016 and 1000s had to replace flooring in their houses. I had my doubts, but in the end I decide to go with the LVP.

Though I don’t disagree with comments made by others discouraging its use, 4 years in I’m happy with it and I have had no issues - and that includes the heavily trafficked kitchen. I have received a number of complements on it. How well it will hold up for the next 4, 6, 8, ….years i haven’t a clue. I would suspect the quality of the LVP chosen and the quality & attention to detail of the install plays a major role in how well it will hold up.

One thing I do know, if installed as a floating product and not glued, and I know you don’t want to hear this, it would be a piece of cake to remove and replace if you had issues with it or you ultimately didn’t like it.

One additional anecdote, I live in a reasonably high-end subdivision and I wondered if using LVP might be an issue if and when I sell the house. All I can say is every nearby neighbor I’ve had who sold their house, the new buyer ripped out and replaced 100% of the existing flooring and installed new flooring regardless of what flooring was in the house or its age. This is happening next door to me right now as I type this. So now I’m of the opinion, install you like or can afford; a potential buyer is likely to replace existing flooring anyway….. :lol:

ETA: If it helps, this is the LVP I installed in my house.

The only things I would add in addition to the other suggestions, the major being drain the tank of the old gasoline, is to also drain the carburetor bowl of old gasoline before potentially replacing the carburetor or cleaning it. They’ll be a small bolt on the side of the carb to do this (see video below). Hopefully the gasoline shutoff valve was closed and the carburetor allowed to run out of gasoline when it was last used several years ago. Even if it was I find with my portable generators some amount of gasoline remains in the bowl so you’ll want to remove that after draining the tank, adding new gasoline and trying to start it.

If and when you get it running, also add “STA-BIL” fuel stabilizer to the fresh gasoline in the tank - I use the “marine 360” version. LINK.

Here is video of a carburetor clean of a Generac 6500 - don’t know if you have this model but I suspect everything is likely as in the video. I would not go through the process of removing the carb and cleaning it unless you can’t get it started after draining the old gasoline from the tank and carb bowl or it runs poorly. I agree with using some Seafoam in the fresh gasoline and letting it run for a few hours if you a get it started with the old carb.

Might want to change the oil after you get I running. Oil will accumulate moisture after several years of sitting up and not being run.

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Does your attic have to be sealed off good from your house. I have alot of can lights everywhere throughout the house and ive heard an attic fan can pull conditioned air from the house to the attic

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That can indeed happen, particularly with stronger electrically powered attic vents, even under conditions where sufficient soffit vent area is available for “make up” ventilation air. Air, like water, will take the path of least resistance. Attic should be sealed really well from the conditioned area below.

From what I’ve read in the state of GA, since 2012 (?), it’s against code to install electrically powered attic vents in new construction, although solar powered attic vents are allowed.

No personal experience, but my next door neighbor, SE BR, installed a whole house stand-by generator 2 years ago. He is a retired engineer and stickler for detail. He got 4 bids/vetted 4 companies. He went with HMC in Prairieville and he was very happy with their work. We talked a lot about the project, during and after - he’d send me photos & updates.

Centipede - 15-0-15 (N-P-K) lawn fertilizer or something very close, with 0 phosphorus (middle number) or near 0. Apply at a rate of 1/2 pound of Nitrogen per 1000 sq ft, which equates to 3 1/3 pound of 15-0-15 per 1000 sq ft. Apply a single application by April 1-15, and if you think it necessary (based on looks) another application at the same rate July 1-15. Often you can skip the mid-summer application. If you want to apply fertilizer now, so do ASAP and water it in. I’m only suggesting that b/c I assume you are in NOLA with a slightly longer growing season, otherwise I’d suggest waiting until next spring to fertilize.

As stated centipede requires very little fertilizer compared to other warm season grasses. It has a naturally yellowish tint, i.e., not as dark green as St Augustine, so don’t over fertilize with nitrogen to make it so.

Most importantly cut it at the proper height, 2 to 2 1/2 inches, which is higher Bermudagrass and shorter than St. Augustine.

If you paid for centipede sod, give a chance to see how you like it and it performs for you. As with all warm season turf grasses, it has pros & cons.

University of FL has the best general guidelines on centipede lawn management Centipede for FL Lawn - this information is applicable to Louisiana lawns as well.

I have the same problem from a neighbor’s Chinese elm. If they are too large to pull up by hand (they have deep taproot so even small ones are hard to pull out) I cut them at ground level and “paint” (cheap artist’s brush or smallest, cheap “throw away” paint brush from the big box stores) the exposed stem Immediately with concentrated trichlopyr herbicide. The herbicide must be applied to the fresh exposed surface. The herbicide is translocated to the root and kills the sapling, obviously preventing re-sprouting.

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10-4 this house is new to me as of April so I’m trying to get a hold on
some weeds, and I’m not sure about what was done previously.

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Good looking lawn. As it’s new to you get on a 2 or 3 times a year pre-emergent herbicide application program. The late spring application would be important for control of annual weeds whose seeds germinate at soil temperatures at 70F +.

You have plenty post-emergent herbicide weed control options with Bermudagrass.

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I believe it was "BocksCar" that dropped on Nagasaki.

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That is correct. The Great Artiste was an instrumentation and observational B-29 that flew both the Hiroshima & Nagasaki missions.