CrawDude

Like a hori hori which I have and use, but like this even better. Gets more use than any garden tool I have.

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is there a quick way for me to know if my current thermostat has this?

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Remove the old thermostat cover (you might have pull the entire thermostat from the wall) and look for a blue wire (common). If you have an old analog style thermostat the blue wire would not be connected, but hopefully the blue C wire wire will be present in the thermostat wire bundle - often depends on the age of the house.

With a new smart thermostat, the common wire has to be connected to not only to the thermostat terminal, but also the other end of the common (blue) wire needs to be connected to the “C” terminal on the control board of the furnace, or air handler, in order for the thermostat to receive power.

I’d also recommend you choose an Ecobee or Honeywell thermostat that meets your needs, and avoid NEST.

Virginian Buttonweed is listed on the “Image for Nutsedge” label for VBW control with multiple applications, but that is also true for MSM Turf (=Mansion), Celsius, Trimec, Weed Free Zone, etc. so off hand don’t see a negative in trying to use it for that purpose, particularly if you are spraying for sedges at the same time.


But I don’t see imazaquin as a recommended herbicide for VBW control on any land grant university extension VBW control fact sheet - which may mean the other herbicides recommended have proved to be more effective in VBW control in field research trials. Your call if you want to experiment with image for nutsedge for a follow up spray(s) or use MSM Turf or Celsius. Give the board your follow up assessment should you go with the imazaquin. Do make sure you wait 2 to 4 weeks between subsequent applications.

Patience & Persistence with VBW control.

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quote: 2-4-D is fine for Bermuda but kills St. Aug (and centipede).

I’ve used it as directed many times on St Aug and not killed the grass.

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This is true - herbicides containing 2-4 D (Trimec, Weed Free Zone, etc) can safely be used on St Augustine or Centipede at temperatures of less than 85 F; it’s at higher temperatures where turf grass damage occurs.

OP, LSU AgCenter recommends not to exceed a depth of 2 inches when leveling with sand if you want the existing turf grass in the low spots to grow through it without smothering-killing the existing grass. Once the grass grows through, you can add additional fill up to 2 inches, …..repeat

Dallisgrass - LSU AgCenter

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Mine is indeed in low spots. Ithas even shown up in the pasture and is on the exit side of a pipe that goes under the driveway to the barn. I have Celsius but have not sprayed it in these spots because I don not think it will kill it(because I do think it's some kind of grass).

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The bad thing about southern water grass, if that is what it might be, is there is no selective herbicide that can kill it without harming the lawn grass. One needs to use a non-selective herbicide like glyphosate.

But on the positive side, because it spreads primarily by seed (as I understand), pre-emergent herbicide can be used to control its spread. But it should be positively identified by an expert before taking any dramatic control efforts.

Can’t provide an ID though I’m quite sure it’s not Torpedograss. The LSU AgCenter has a new horticultural & turf weed extension specialist Colton Blankenship LINK - you might want to send him these photos and details you provided on TD and see what he thinks. If he can’t ID usually they’ll send the photo to others colleagues to see what they think it might be. Easier to ID a grassy “weed” when it has a seedhead.

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there are a few big ones but for the most part probably 1/2" or less. just a frick ton of them.

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Pretty much been there, and done that. Largely done what cgrand suggested to you. Very likely most “trees” won’t grow back (depends on what they were), vines most likely will. Purchase concentrated trichlopyr (Brushtox, 61.6% trichlopyr, $35 for a quart) from Tractor Supply, a 1 inch or smaller, cheap, throwaway paint brush from HD or Lowe’s, and any vine or “trees stump” that re-spouts cut it and immediately paint the freshly cut stump with concentrated trichlopyr - it will kill them and you’ll get rid of everything undesirable overtime.

In my case, after clearing the area I’ll immediately brought in “garden soil” (composted forestry products, readily available at larger retail garden centers in bulk) to build the landscape bed(s) about 12 inches above grade (it will settle by 1/2 over time) and immediately planted. Of course, I have heavy clay soils where I live so slightly raised landscape beds are almost essential to success (draining and to insure newly planted material roots don’t sit in waterlogged soil), plus it’s aesthetic.

If you want to plant woody shrubs it might be best to wait until late fall-early winter although you can plant container shrubs now, but you’ll need to religiously water and care for them during the heat of summer. Fall-winter planting of woody shrubs significant reduces stress of planting and gives you much larger safety margin. If you go with fall-early winter planting of shrubs just plant the newly renovated area with annual flowers, perhaps some perennials, that you and the significant other like, to enjoy over the summer and early fall.

Anyway, I’ve done this in past, and actually doing it now in a bed I’m renovating, and it’s worked for me. I didn’t wait until fall-early winter to replant something enjoyable in the newly cleaned and renovated beds even though it was the beginning of summer.

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Car is well past the recommended mileage and I’d like to preserve the components that are in contact with it. I read online that the by products created over time can be mildly corrosive or can block small passages within the loop.

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Yes, the buffering capacity (alkalinity) of engine coolant is depleted over time lowering the coolant pH and making it more corrosive.

Two good articles on engine coolant written by the owner of a local automotive repair shop, AgCo Automotive, in BR.

Anti-Freeze & Cooling Tips

Replacing Engine Coolant

Another thing owners don’t consider, being radiators are made of aluminum & plastic, it’s wise to replace them as a maintenance item every 10-12 years…..yes, I keep vehicles a long-time (2005 & 2010 Toyotas) as well…....lol.