re: Chlorine pool cloudy

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you can either brush daily or run your polaris

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Yeah, I need to fix the Polaris soon, I'm tired of brushing.

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If you're noticing pool sand on the floor of your pool, you could have a broken lateral in your filter

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It's not sand, more like dust when you brush it, I'm assuming it's dead algae or something.

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A lot of sand issues can be resolved by opening the filter and doing a deep clean, letting the dirty water overflow the open top. Just have to remove the multiport valve and piping connections on top, so you must have threaded couplings on the piping.

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Tell me more...just take the multiport off and run the pump or wash out with a waterhose?

Thanks. I never even heard of this until yesterday, I'll definitely be doing it this weekend.

Have had my pool for three years now and this is the first year I had to battle algae. I was low on calcium and phosphates. I got it balanced again and it is back to crystal clear blue after battling it for about two weeks. I ran my pool vacuum and sprayed it out everyday and backwashed the sand filter every other day.

Don't drain ALL of the water. 0 CYA is almost as good as 100 CYA. You need it around 30-50. At most, drain half of your pool and refill it if you wish. It should be a relatively linear reduction of CYA. If you drain half your pool, your CYA should drop by half. Personally, I don't think 70 is high enough to cause the chlorine to not release. It's high, but not high enough to create a perpetual cloudiness problem. Needs to be addressed sooner than later either way. My $.02 is something filtration related.

You don't need to add anything to your pool other than chlorine, soda ash or muratic acid. I'm not a hard core TFP fanatic. But some of their concepts have merit, and some I think are just overcomplicating the process. Sticking with these three chemicals is one of the things I stick with.

Taking your water to Leslie's or a swimming pool store for testing is a quick way to blow a few hundred bucks on stuff you don't need.

Get the 2006 test kit and take the readings on PH, Chlorine and CYA. The test kit he posted is the correct Taylor kit. That test kit gives you the CYA test. I don't believe the Test kit 100 will. I'd be curious what the CYA reading from that kit is. I had very wild swings in CYA readings from the pool store.

OP, if you want to get the test kit, I don't mind talking to you over the phone to explain how to use the test kit. It took a little time reading and understanding the instructions that came with it when I first got it.

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This is your problem. You have stabilizer lock.

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He doesn’t have stabilizer lock at 70.

Year nine with a TFP. New liner this year but last year I spent a whopping 150 bucks on chemicals. Salt water. Listen to the TFP advice. Every year it looks like this, 5 minutes ago, never had to slam.

Chlorine: Walmart
CYA: Walmart
HCl(muriatic acid): Hardware store
Besides salt and borax that's all I use. If you have a concrete pool I'm pretty sure you need Ca high. Look at TFP.

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Are yall using household chemical branded bleach and baking soda and stuff or the pool store chemicals?

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costco
- 3" clorox brand tabs
- 24 pk clorox shock
- arm & hammer baking soda


thats all that ever goes into my pool and the CYA never gets too high so i don't bother with liquid chlorine.