Tigerlaff

OK that's definitely not what I was expecting. I was looking for regular anthracnose damage. This almost looks like fungal shot hole disease that you find on peaches, but mangos don't get shot hole as far as I know. I think what you have here is an insect problem followed by a fungal problem. When some insects feed on the leaf, it creates an entryway for fungus. So you get a bug that bites a part of the leaf and within hours opportunistic fungal spores attack at the spot of the bite. As the fungal spot develops a hole appears in the leaf. This would explain why your copper is isn't doing anything. Rain is washing it off and new fungal spores are hitching a ride on the bugs to get to the leaves.

That's my theory anyway. Now let's kill those sons of bitches. We gotta fix bugs first, then fungus. I'm not one of those all natural "the only pesticide I feel safe using is peppermint oil and dish soap" kind of people. I use chemicals because they work. But I'll start you with the gentlest protocol possible and we can escalate if it doesn't fix your tree.

Bugs: spinosad. Bonide Captain Jack's is the most widely available one. Why spinosad? Because it's a natural organic pesticide that is only toxic to insects and aquatic invertebrates and more importantly because it has a reasonably persistent translaminar effect. The spinosad penetrates the leaves and will briefly act like a systemic pesticide. I would hit the whole tree with spinosad 2-3 times per week when new growth is present. If that doesn't work we can talk about actual systemic pesticides.

Now the fungus. If it was just insect feeding, it wouldn't be so bad. The secondary fungus is what's really jacking up your leaves. I would start with Monterey Garden Phos spray once every week or two. The phosphites it contains suppress fungal cellular respiration but also have the amazing secondary effect of stimulating plant cells to prepare an immediate immune response. The plant doesn't get caught off guard and is immediately ready to attack arriving fungal spores (which are already metabolically weakened from the phosphites). In addition to garden phos, I would spray once a month with Bonide Infuse (propiconazole). This is a true systemic fungicide that will last for about a month in the tissues of the plant. It will control almost any fungal disease you can think of along with many bacterial diseases.

If you want, you can try one thing at a time to use the least amount of chemicals possible to control the issues. But I would hit em with the triple whammy immediately because I hate malignant bugs and fungi.

Next mango up is Dupuis Saigon. Best mango so far. Extremely sweet with a strong citrus and floral component. Almost reminded me of lychee.

LINK

Not so fast. Our official website says LSU beat that Bulldog arse.

I like it. In fact I think we can sweep Florida this way. NCAA tourney committee isn't watching these games.

It was different. I think I made it way too strong. It had this flavor note that tasted the way one of my pesticides smells. Couldn't shake the thought and didn't finish it. I'll stick to Camellia sinensis.

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This part worries me. It only has two shitty looking leaves on it. The pups around it look great, though.

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In this case the fertilizer and water is even more important. The pups will feed the corm which will in turn feed the fruiting tree. But it's not as strong as the main psuedostem feeding itself. Do not remove or damage any pups. You need them soaking up as much sun as possible.

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So cut them as soon as they look like they're even thinking about ripening, got it. I would have let them ripe on the tree if you hadn't said anything.

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Yes. The absolute perfect scenario would be to cut a full rack of plump filled out light green fruit with the bottommost fruit just breaking to yellow. All the rest happens off the tree.

So lucky man. That's awesome. My advice is to push that thing with a weekly liquid fertilizer high in potassium and keep it always well watered. That will speed up the ripening. You probabaly have enough time for it to mature before it stops growing in the winter. My rajapuri hasn't flowered yet and I'm running out of time.

Have you ever tasted namwah bananas?

PSA: Bob Wells Nursery has grafted pawpaws back in stock. Allegheny, Potomac, KSU Atwood, and KSU Benson. These are perfect sized trees for planting. Big enough to be strong but not big enough that the taproot has curled in the pot. They are even grown in the proper tall pots for pawpaws. I grabbed a Benson and Atwood.

LINK

I don't even like girl vocalist bands. I don't like Paramore. But this is just pure melodic grit. I know it's not everyone's cup of tea. But I'm 38 and glad to hear gritty guitar-driven rock music that comes from instruments played by people in the band with lyrics written by the singer. For fans of Youth Fountain, The Hotelier, etc.

Like Roses - Wrist

Like Roses - Splenetic

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what should i amend it with other than compost? do you think fall will be ok to plant? i would get one of those popup greenhouses to cover this winter

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Why not plant now? I would not plant bananas in the fall. They completely stop growing at 60-65F and may not sufficiently establish before winter freezes. If you have to wait until fall, start them in pots and overwinter.

Just put compost at the base of each tree and chuck a handful of fertilizer at it every few weeks. They're not picky. Insanely aggressive growers.