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Tigerlaff
| Favorite team: | LSU |
| Location: | FIGHTING out of the Carencro Sonic |
| Biography: | Things got weird... |
| Interests: | |
| Occupation: | |
| Number of Posts: | 22767 |
| Registered on: | 1/22/2010 |
| Online Status: | Not Online |
Recent Posts
Message
Thanks! That's a hydrangea and a variegated hydrangea.
Bonus orange hibiscus going crazy:

Bonus orange hibiscus going crazy:

Got the Chamaedorea radicalis palms planted into the landscape. Excited to see how these perform.
If they end up looking like the one I potted I will be very happy.
Also saved one in case the potted one doesn't survive the root prune. Cross your fingers for me.
If they end up looking like the one I potted I will be very happy.
Also saved one in case the potted one doesn't survive the root prune. Cross your fingers for me.
re: it was a bad day for the panican's
Posted by Tigerlaff on 5/19/26 at 8:41 pm to dickkellog
quote:
it was a bad day for the panican's
A bad day for the panican's what? Forget a word?
quote:
you think that would be a good banana spot? I didn’t think about that. The soil is black and it can hold water sometimes (just a day or usually)
Absolutely. Sun and water. Just add fertilizer.
You need to plant Thai Giant colocasia in those wet areas. Bananas too and maybe some swamp hibiscus.
I don't think you are likely to harvest any bananas from that plant this year. If it was sold to you as blue java and you bought it from anywhere besides a specialty nursery, it's actually tall namwah. Tall namwah is not fruiting until 12-16 feet tall. That will be way too late. If you protect that 7ft stalk this winter you may very well get it to flower in the spring.
Experienced banana growers will tell you that your corm should only have 3 stalks: this year's fruit stalk, next year's fruit stalk about half the size of this year's, and a small pup less than half the size of the middle stalk.
I try to limit each mat to 4 stalks, but I don't worry too much about it. They get stronger and stronger every year and will eventually fruit faster.
Experienced banana growers will tell you that your corm should only have 3 stalks: this year's fruit stalk, next year's fruit stalk about half the size of this year's, and a small pup less than half the size of the middle stalk.
I try to limit each mat to 4 stalks, but I don't worry too much about it. They get stronger and stronger every year and will eventually fruit faster.
Alright time for some cool updates.
First of the Bounty passionfruit are turning color and falling off the vine. I wish that these had hung on a little longer, but they will continue to ripen as long as the color has broken from green to purple. Will let them get wrinkled before eating.
Speaking of passionfruit, the Qinmi #9 is really starting to take off with the heat. Yellow passionfruit (Passiflora edulis flavicarpa) is more tropical than purple passionfruit (Passiflora edulis) and needs more hot weather. Really hope this lives up to the hype.
And in the coolest news of all, I have identified and located a new landscape palm hardy to zone 8 that is pinnate, trunking, and tolerates both full sun and full shade. This is Chamaedorea radicalis, a palm endemic to elevated oak forests in Tamaulipas, Mexico. These grow at altitude and tolerate much colder temperatures than similar looking palms of the region.
If you are familiar with palms in 9a you know that the only reliably hardy pinnate trunking palms are pretty much the pindo palm, mule palm, and maybe the Canary Island and Sylvester date palms depending on location. And even those (except the mule) have the arid "desert" palm look instead of a tropical look. Everything else is on borrowed time or has palmate fronds that don't look as tropical. Here's a photo of a more mature healthy one:
Radicalis is hardy to the teens and will not start taking damage until 20F. These particular ones came from a Pensacola grower. They experienced 18F a couple of years ago and suffered no damage even in pots. He had 13 inches of snow this past winter, also without effect.
You can put this palm anywhere. It takes more sun than any other palm in the Chamaedorea genus and also thrives in full shade. It even does great in containers. These things are bulletproof in zones 8-9 and I cannot for the life of me understand why they are not everywhere along the gulf coast. It's a huge miss by the southern nursery industry. The UK has known about them for years and makes great use of them.
I'll be putting 4 in the ground in shady spots and keeping one in a pot that I won't have to protect. The rest are going to family and friends.
ETA: potted one up. This looks damn good for something that will survive the teens.

First of the Bounty passionfruit are turning color and falling off the vine. I wish that these had hung on a little longer, but they will continue to ripen as long as the color has broken from green to purple. Will let them get wrinkled before eating.
Speaking of passionfruit, the Qinmi #9 is really starting to take off with the heat. Yellow passionfruit (Passiflora edulis flavicarpa) is more tropical than purple passionfruit (Passiflora edulis) and needs more hot weather. Really hope this lives up to the hype.
And in the coolest news of all, I have identified and located a new landscape palm hardy to zone 8 that is pinnate, trunking, and tolerates both full sun and full shade. This is Chamaedorea radicalis, a palm endemic to elevated oak forests in Tamaulipas, Mexico. These grow at altitude and tolerate much colder temperatures than similar looking palms of the region.
If you are familiar with palms in 9a you know that the only reliably hardy pinnate trunking palms are pretty much the pindo palm, mule palm, and maybe the Canary Island and Sylvester date palms depending on location. And even those (except the mule) have the arid "desert" palm look instead of a tropical look. Everything else is on borrowed time or has palmate fronds that don't look as tropical. Here's a photo of a more mature healthy one:
Radicalis is hardy to the teens and will not start taking damage until 20F. These particular ones came from a Pensacola grower. They experienced 18F a couple of years ago and suffered no damage even in pots. He had 13 inches of snow this past winter, also without effect.
You can put this palm anywhere. It takes more sun than any other palm in the Chamaedorea genus and also thrives in full shade. It even does great in containers. These things are bulletproof in zones 8-9 and I cannot for the life of me understand why they are not everywhere along the gulf coast. It's a huge miss by the southern nursery industry. The UK has known about them for years and makes great use of them.
I'll be putting 4 in the ground in shady spots and keeping one in a pot that I won't have to protect. The rest are going to family and friends.
ETA: potted one up. This looks damn good for something that will survive the teens.

quote:
I planted a small grapefruit tree a couple of months ago. I’m in South Louisiana. I was wondering if there is any recommended spraying or other recommendations for preventative care? Thanks.
Spinosad spray every 7-10 days to keep the leaf miners and white flies off. Much easier to prevent than cure.
Your biggest threat will be cold. Make sure you have a well thought out plan to cover and add supplementary heat before winter gets here. Grapefruit does not like 9a/9b winters.
re: Louisiana Tropical Fruit Gardening - Experiences and Updates
Posted by Tigerlaff on 5/17/26 at 6:48 am to LanierSpots
You should get a kentia palm for inside your house. Mine are doing great. They love indoor climate.
My post tomorrow won't really apply to you. This is for our zone 8b-9b guys. Very cool and rare species that should be all over the gulf coast and isn't.
My post tomorrow won't really apply to you. This is for our zone 8b-9b guys. Very cool and rare species that should be all over the gulf coast and isn't.
re: Louisiana Tropical Fruit Gardening - Experiences and Updates
Posted by Tigerlaff on 5/17/26 at 5:40 am to LanierSpots
quote:
Man you guys are busy. Jeez
I'm gonna have a big time palm tree post tomorrow just for you. Picking up some very exciting new additions from a Florida grower. :cheers:
quote:
I’m looking at scion wood for the winter and I see suggestions of shenandoah, Davis and sunflower for LA growing.
Would you agree with that?
Yes. Let me repost the FB post from an experienced grower in Houston.
That's 9b so any of that should work great for us. Afternoon shade is a great idea too.
Sunflower, mango, Collins, Susquehanna, Shenandoah, prima 1216, and tropical treat are known to do well with hot weather.
My current list is as follows:
Sunflower
Mango
Susquehanna
Shenandoah
KSU Atwood
KSU Benson
Collins seedling
Avery Island wild seedling
quote:
How would i know if i needed to just cull the 2 mangos I let my Pickering hold. They still seem small, compared to the fact that they’re harvesting in Florida? But idk when those fruit start.
If I do pull them should I fertilize with some nitrogen to help push foliage since no fruit ?
If they aren't increasing in size it means the tree is struggling to feed them. Also, I try to never allow more than one mango per panicle since they have to split resources.
If I were you, I would cut the one that branches off to the side and leave the fruit that is on the "main line." If the tree is mature enough, it will ripen way late in July or August. Don't worry about Florida mango season. Different climates means different harvests.
re: Milam: “You don’t come to this place to lose.”
Posted by Tigerlaff on 5/16/26 at 4:52 am to OpenlyGayDave
quote:
OpenlyGayDave

quote:
there was the thickest patch of young pawpaws I’ve ever seen…they don’t seem to mind growing in close quarters to their neighbors
They root sucker. All those pawpaw patches are genetically identical and can't pollinate themselves.
This team fricking sucks. They can all go cry into their money.
KSU Benson and KSU Atwood pawpaws arrived looking fantastic from Bob Wells Nursery in Texas. 14 inch tree pots so the taproots are in great shape. When they arrive this healthy they go straight in the ground.
Got the largest Musa Truly Tiny pup separated from the mother plant. Mother plant is very close to fruiting. This pup will be the next generation. I highly recommend Truly Tiny if you want to grow in a pot. They never get taller than 3-4 feet and can produce racks weighing 10lbs or more. You can keep the pups and produce indefinitely without all the freeze protection efforts needed for in ground trees.
My Silas Wood sapodilla is finally setting fruit. Got it as a small 3g tree 18 months ago. If you want early and prolific production from a dwarf sapodilla, Silas Wood is the one. Unfortunately I won't harvest any until next spring. Sapodillas take forever to ripen but eventually they become somewhat everbearing due to the constant flowering.

My Silas Wood sapodilla is finally setting fruit. Got it as a small 3g tree 18 months ago. If you want early and prolific production from a dwarf sapodilla, Silas Wood is the one. Unfortunately I won't harvest any until next spring. Sapodillas take forever to ripen but eventually they become somewhat everbearing due to the constant flowering.

re: Eric Church gave the best commencement speech at a college graduation.
Posted by Tigerlaff on 5/14/26 at 7:40 am to WildcatMike
A thorough rebuke of modernity's bullshite excuse for a vision. Bravo.
quote:
My Arctic Frost Satsuma has really taken off. I planted it last June and it barely grew last year.
First year it sleeps. Second year it creeps. Third year it leaps. Every single citrus I've ever planted in the ground did absolutely nothing the first season. That whole first year is just root establishment.
All the rest of that stuff looks great and healthy. I'm really excited to see how the Bell carambola performs.
quote:
Remember; it’s a true dwarf mango tree and it’s in a pot. You can’t let what you’ve seen from your guava or carambola be an indication of what to expect from it. 25% is a significant amount of growth for a Pickering IMHO. I probably would let it rip too. This year is messed up. I’m writing it off to a painful learning experience.
100%. Wise words. This is a zone pushing thread and I'm all about pushing until it doesn't work. When the fruit stops growing, that's the point where I'm making sacrifices. We need to figure out what is and is not possible.
It held and ripened 3 excellent fruit last year. But the tree is only about 25% larger than last year (after mandatory safety pruning) and trying to hold 20+. I'll just keep thinning each week until I see progress.
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