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Question for tractor baws

Posted on 9/28/25 at 12:31 pm
Posted by CCT
LA
Member since Dec 2006
6780 posts
Posted on 9/28/25 at 12:31 pm
I am a tractor baw novitiate with maintenance. I’m having bad overheating problems w/ a Kubota L3800. After tinkering and researching I’ve determined the issues are a combination of a dirty air filter, dirty radiators, and dull blades on the Woods bush hog.

Do you hose off the radiator fins gently after an application of a cleaner like Simple Green (after removing the battery), or no cleaning chemical? I don’t have pressurized air to blow them out.

Do you use antifreeze/coolant? The water is dirty, and something is niggling at me that you’re not supposed to use it…maybe because my deceased FIL said not to, I think. The PVC valve is only a couple of years old.

Where in the Gonzales area could I get the blades sharpened?
Posted by LSUA 75
Colfax,La.
Member since Jan 2019
4615 posts
Posted on 9/28/25 at 3:30 pm to
I just blow the dust out of the radiators on my tractors with an air compressor. Also blow out the dust from the air filter a good many times before replacing it.
I can’t imagine not having an air compressor.Get a pancake compressor at least.
Antifreeze shouldn’t be brown,drain it,flush it with water hose and refill with clean antifreeze.

Bushhogging blades might need replacing.They’re not supposed to be very sharp.
This post was edited on 9/28/25 at 3:33 pm
Posted by bbvdd
Memphis, TN
Member since Jun 2009
27939 posts
Posted on 9/28/25 at 6:01 pm to
Amazon

I have this that I use with an air compressor. My dealer mechanic told me about it. If you don’t have a small pancake compressor, buy one. You will use it for a lot of other stuff.

I sharpen the blades on my bush hog once or twice a year. Just use an angle grinder with sandpaper flap disc.
This post was edited on 9/28/25 at 6:05 pm
Posted by 14caratgoldjones
Uniontown, Al
Member since Aug 2009
1571 posts
Posted on 9/28/25 at 6:36 pm to
We use this tool. I find it easier ti clean with how it’s shaped than other wands that are just open at the end. This one has a bend and makes it super easy to clean my radiator. Comes with an air and water wand.

Posted by DownshiftAndFloorIt
Here
Member since Jan 2011
70776 posts
Posted on 9/28/25 at 7:56 pm to
quote:

dirty air filter, dirty radiators


Both easy to remedy.

quote:

dull blades on the Woods bush hog.


Not likely. If the engine isn't losing speed, as in at wide open throttle still cant turn rated speed, the PTO load isn't the problem. The cooling system can handle all of the power the engine can make.

First question is are you running it at rated speed (likely 2100 rpm) or lower speed? Running at lower speed will cause all kinds of problems. Let it rev.

If you are running it at rated speed and its holding rated speed but still overheating, and is full of coolant, dirty radiator and screens are probably the problem. Rinsing it all off with a hose will pr9bably fix it.
Posted by dragginass
Member since Jan 2013
3120 posts
Posted on 9/28/25 at 9:49 pm to
If you're running plain water in your cooling system, you're asking for trouble. Without corrosion inhibitors you likely have some nasty crap built up in your system. I would do a chemical flush, refill with red coolant, and then see where you stand.
Posted by Spankum
Miss-sippi
Member since Jan 2007
60155 posts
Posted on 9/28/25 at 10:24 pm to
Sounds like you need to flush your cooling system…and yes, always add antifreeze, 50/50 mix). Check to see if your fan belt is slipping while you at it.

How do you know it is getting hot?
Posted by sleepytime
Member since Feb 2014
3836 posts
Posted on 9/28/25 at 11:31 pm to
You're not going to like what I'm going to tell you but if your fluid is brown, you've need to rebuild your cooling system. Corrosion eats the impeller on the water pump and if you don't take care of it now, plan on doing it later.

1. Flush your system out with a coolant flush chemical
2. Replace your water pump, thermostat and all hoses, especially the little ones. Overheating puts a lot of stress on the hoses and weakens them so bite the bullet know.
3. Use a radiator genie to clean the fins out on the radiator while it's out.
4. Use premix coolant or concentrate with *distilled* water only. Tap water has minerals in it that screw up your cooling system.
5. Replace the belt and make sure it's properly tensioned. The belt turns the water pump that circulates the coolant. I've seen many loose belts causing overheating issues.
6. Prepare anus for the possibility of needing a new radiator.

Don't cheap out on parts either. Messicks is pretty reasonable for OEM if you know exactly what you need. The parts guys at dealers are pretty good at telling you everything and they are typically 20-30% higher. Stay far away from Chinese and Indian parts.
If you want to be conservative, flush the system out with the thermostat out(the proper way), clean your radiator fins, slap a new thermostat in there, fill her up with coolant and check the belt tension. Be sure to buy a spare thermostat gasket just in case.


Posted by CCT
LA
Member since Dec 2006
6780 posts
Posted on 9/29/25 at 12:46 am to
We do run it at the proper speed, not lower because the pasture is thick and high. Gearbox had it out of commission for a few weeks.

The air filter is dirty, too, but it’s stuck in the housing. Getting help with that, tomorrow. A pancake compressor would help a lot. I don’t have anything to blow it or the radiator out correctly. The air and water one looks good. I’ll see about that tomorrow. Along with antifreeze. I’ve never flushed a cooling system before so that will be a new thing for me and it seems imperative I do it ASAP, too. You guys drove that home.

I couldn’t get the blades off. Frozen into place with dirt. Looks like I need to focus on the cooling system first.

Thanks, guys!
Posted by MarshMan
Ponchatoula
Member since May 2015
661 posts
Posted on 9/29/25 at 7:22 am to
We have a Mahindra that will constantly overheat and has been that way since new. The radiator, oil cooler, and AC condenser screens are just a poor design. The engine fan basically blows everything back onto them. The only fix is the remove all the screens and air filter and blow them out daily, then rinse with water. Let them dry before running the tractor to prevent dust from sticking.

They do make an aftermarket reversing fan that can be installed, which would help out tremendously, but they are pretty pricey.
Posted by DownSouthDave
Member since Jan 2013
7499 posts
Posted on 9/29/25 at 7:43 am to
I use the radiator genie on the water hose. It works great. I've also put on a sun shade type material over the hood, like a bra on a car, to help keep the amount of seed and dirt that gets in the engine compartment.

I have also used an electric blower that I would keep in the bucket while cutting. It does a decent job and is much faster than going back to the hose.

Hose does a much better job though.
Posted by Bowstring1
Member since Sep 2016
187 posts
Posted on 9/29/25 at 6:53 pm to
Most of the newer, Kabota have a screen that is removable in front of the radiator. Simply slide the screen out and blow it off and put it back on. Typically the screen catches any grass or trash before it gets to the radiator. It blocks up fairly easy and will definitely cause the tractor to run hot
Posted by windmill
Prairieville, La
Member since Dec 2005
7659 posts
Posted on 9/29/25 at 11:58 pm to
Removing the blades on bush hog to sharpen isn't necessary. I sharpen the blades withe an angle grinder mounted with a flap disc while they are still mounted on the bush hog.
Regarding the over heating I would drain the cooling system and install a new thermostat and gasket and refill cooling system with good anti freeze. I also recommend making sure the belt that turns the water pump is tight enough. Run it and see if that takes care of the problem. BTW-I do not subscibe to the "blanket" approach of repair. This is replacing every part in the system regardless of whether they are good or bad. I find this method a lot of needless labor as well as being very costly.
Good luck with it.
Posted by X123F45
Member since Apr 2015
29382 posts
Posted on 10/1/25 at 5:02 am to
Waterhose no nozzle to rinse radiator. From back side.

Drain coolant, refill with distilled water. Run for 5 minutes. Drain. Repeat until clean. Refill with BLUE coolant. I've had zero rad issues, impeller issues, or thermostat issues since converting everything to blue.

Oil? Rotella 5w40. I was a delo xle man until they cut the moly down... Bastards.


As for blades, buy a big harbor freight grinder.
Posted by Tigerpaw123
Louisiana
Member since Mar 2007
17716 posts
Posted on 10/1/25 at 7:09 am to
quote:

couldn’t get the blades off. Frozen into place with dirt


If you are still trying to get blades off, spray with Kroil let soak a few hours and remember the threads are left handed
Righty loosey
Posted by GoAwayImBaitn
On an island in the marsh
Member since Jul 2018
2807 posts
Posted on 10/2/25 at 12:17 pm to
My old Deere 950 was hitting 240°F and I had tried to flush it, remove thermostat, no fix

Finally I had realized how rust accumulated in the block so I removed all the hoses. I carefully flushed/blasted inside the block with a pressure washer. I pickled the block by closing off all openings and soaked with Rust 911 for a week, turns rusty metal into new metal. I then sunk the radiator in crawfish boil pot and discovered a small leak along with some obstructions in the capillaries from rust.

Got a new aluminum radiator off of ebay. Changed thermostat and water pump. Put Nitrite free coolant/distilled water in (better for corrosion protection on wet sleeve engines and aluminum radiators) and now can brush hog in summer heat while maintaining a temp of 170°F

I believe getting all the rust out of the cooling jackets and radiator made the biggest difference with getting the heat to transfer off the engine
This post was edited on 10/2/25 at 12:33 pm
Posted by CCT
LA
Member since Dec 2006
6780 posts
Posted on 10/2/25 at 1:58 pm to
Thanks for the suggestions!

I drained the radiator and found the bottle made it look dirtier than it was. It looked pretty clean and it WAS antifreeze. I put water in, ran it a few minutes and drained again, not taking out the thermostat, and refilled with Kuboda antifreeze.
The air filter was a two in one and the inside filter was basically melted to the inside and royal bitch to remove. Both were black and terrible. Replaced.
I removed the battery and hosed out the radiators from the engine side and a lot of gunk came out. Blew it fairly dry and put it up for a day.
When I took it for a test run I stopped after two hours. When cutting samplings and trash growth it was fine. When I went back to cutting the thick two-foot pasture grass the temperature started rising but more slowly. It was partially cloudy and I could tell it helped make a difference.
Radiator Genie wands should arrive today, and a pancake compressor is next. It will be regular Maintenance to blow out the radiators after every use.
I was rewarded for my hard work with good temps and a sighting of a tic tac UFO going lazily across the north to the east. No wings, fin, or bouncy balloon movement. My damn phone was in the house and it was soon out of sight.
Thanks, y’all!
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