- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Coaching Changes
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
Pool troubles
Posted on 4/16/25 at 2:50 pm
Posted on 4/16/25 at 2:50 pm
I’m at my wits end with my pool. In ground saltwater. At the end of last summer my salt level started reading low on the motherboard but when tested at the pool store it was normal. Tried resetting the cell didn’t work. Took the cell into the store and had it tested and it worked fine. Pool was staying clear so just let it ride until shutting it down.
Fast forward to this spring. Started getting it vacuumed and adding chemicals and salt and the reading was still low. Had the pool tech come out and look at the system. Ran some test different from the in store test that said the cell was the problem and that it needed to be replaced. I Replaced the cell with an off brand which is supposed to work fine and it worked great for a couple weeks and the pool started clearing up.
In the last few days the reading has started to be low again and not change when adding salt and my water has plateaud and not clearing up no matter what I do. I have flocked it twice, added phosphate remover, clarifier, shocked the crap out of it. Nothing clears up the water.
Test the water again at the pool store today and salt level is fine even though my board reads low. Now they are saying they don’t know what the problem is but it could be the off brand cell.
Does anyone work on pools or have any thoughts? I’m about ready to burn my house down because it has to be built on a Native American burial ground. Lived here 4 years with no issues, in the last month our 4 year old washer went out completely and had to be replaced, our master bath shower is now leaking as of yesterday, and the pool is a nightmare.
Fast forward to this spring. Started getting it vacuumed and adding chemicals and salt and the reading was still low. Had the pool tech come out and look at the system. Ran some test different from the in store test that said the cell was the problem and that it needed to be replaced. I Replaced the cell with an off brand which is supposed to work fine and it worked great for a couple weeks and the pool started clearing up.
In the last few days the reading has started to be low again and not change when adding salt and my water has plateaud and not clearing up no matter what I do. I have flocked it twice, added phosphate remover, clarifier, shocked the crap out of it. Nothing clears up the water.
Test the water again at the pool store today and salt level is fine even though my board reads low. Now they are saying they don’t know what the problem is but it could be the off brand cell.
Does anyone work on pools or have any thoughts? I’m about ready to burn my house down because it has to be built on a Native American burial ground. Lived here 4 years with no issues, in the last month our 4 year old washer went out completely and had to be replaced, our master bath shower is now leaking as of yesterday, and the pool is a nightmare.
11
Posted on 4/16/25 at 2:57 pm to AUVet21
i wonder if its got nothing to do with your cell but something to do with your board. Ive had some solder joints get burned up in the past that caused weird errors. Have you tried googling "salt reads low" with your model controller? There are some really good forums out there. I was able to resolder mine a couple times
Posted on 4/16/25 at 3:05 pm to AUVet21
This post reminds me how much I don't miss my pool 
It could be a piece in your motherboard. There's a black disc looking thing, can't remember exactly what it's called, that is soldered in there. They tend to get brittle and crack before they completely go out, which could be causing the bad readings. If it is that you can literally get them for probably less than $15 then just have to unsolder and remove and replace.
It could be a piece in your motherboard. There's a black disc looking thing, can't remember exactly what it's called, that is soldered in there. They tend to get brittle and crack before they completely go out, which could be causing the bad readings. If it is that you can literally get them for probably less than $15 then just have to unsolder and remove and replace.
Posted on 4/16/25 at 3:23 pm to AUVet21
1. Inspect and Clean the Salt Cell
What to do: Remove the cell and check for scaling (white buildup on the plates), which can reduce chlorine production. Clean it with a mild acid solution (following the manufacturer’s instructions—usually a mix of water and muriatic acid) or a vinegar soak if scaling is present.
Why: Even a new cell can scale quickly if water chemistry is off, and this could explain both the low chlorine and cloudy water.
2. Double-Check Water Chemistry
What to do: Get a full water test at the pool store (not just salt). Check:
Salt: Confirm it’s in the range your system needs (usually 2700–3400 ppm, but check your manual).
pH: Should be 7.2–7.6.
Total Alkalinity: 80–120 ppm.
Calcium Hardness: 200–400 ppm.
Stabilizer (Cyanuric Acid): 30–50 ppm for saltwater pools.
Why: If these are out of balance, the cell might not work efficiently, and shocking or clarifiers won’t clear the water without enough chlorine.
3. Test the Motherboard
What to do: Call a pool tech to specifically test or recalibrate the motherboard. Ask them to verify if it’s reading the salt levels correctly and controlling the cell properly.
Why: If the motherboard’s sensors or software are off, it could be under-running the cell, causing low chlorine output. If it’s faulty, replacing it might be the fix.
What to do: Remove the cell and check for scaling (white buildup on the plates), which can reduce chlorine production. Clean it with a mild acid solution (following the manufacturer’s instructions—usually a mix of water and muriatic acid) or a vinegar soak if scaling is present.
Why: Even a new cell can scale quickly if water chemistry is off, and this could explain both the low chlorine and cloudy water.
2. Double-Check Water Chemistry
What to do: Get a full water test at the pool store (not just salt). Check:
Salt: Confirm it’s in the range your system needs (usually 2700–3400 ppm, but check your manual).
pH: Should be 7.2–7.6.
Total Alkalinity: 80–120 ppm.
Calcium Hardness: 200–400 ppm.
Stabilizer (Cyanuric Acid): 30–50 ppm for saltwater pools.
Why: If these are out of balance, the cell might not work efficiently, and shocking or clarifiers won’t clear the water without enough chlorine.
3. Test the Motherboard
What to do: Call a pool tech to specifically test or recalibrate the motherboard. Ask them to verify if it’s reading the salt levels correctly and controlling the cell properly.
Why: If the motherboard’s sensors or software are off, it could be under-running the cell, causing low chlorine output. If it’s faulty, replacing it might be the fix.
Posted on 4/16/25 at 4:11 pm to AUVet21
Aside from the board or cell, the other stuff you’ve done should have cleared it up for the most part.
Are you brushing it as well?
Sounds like the cell is bad but even if it’s okay that’s more of a low and slow sanitizer to maintain, as compared to shocking, adding chlorine etc.
Also check out LINK
Are you brushing it as well?
Sounds like the cell is bad but even if it’s okay that’s more of a low and slow sanitizer to maintain, as compared to shocking, adding chlorine etc.
Also check out LINK
Posted on 4/16/25 at 4:13 pm to AUVet21
Two different cells including a brand new one? … I’d definitely put my money on it’s some sort of mother board issue.
Have a qualified pool tech come out and trouble shoot it. Hopefully it’s an easy and cheap fix.
The salt cells should last at least 5 years if properly maintained.
Have a qualified pool tech come out and trouble shoot it. Hopefully it’s an easy and cheap fix.
The salt cells should last at least 5 years if properly maintained.
Posted on 4/16/25 at 4:42 pm to habz007
When you say levels , what are you referring to?
Your FC?
Or your salt cell is not Turning on?
What’s your most recent results ?
FC
Ph
TA
salt
Cya
calcium
Do you have any combined chloramines ?
Still have algae ?
I’m not understanding your issue ?
What brand equipment
Highly suggest going to trouble free pool and creating an account and posting there
Those guys know pools
Your FC?
Or your salt cell is not Turning on?
What’s your most recent results ?
FC
Ph
TA
salt
Cya
calcium
Do you have any combined chloramines ?
Still have algae ?
I’m not understanding your issue ?
What brand equipment
Highly suggest going to trouble free pool and creating an account and posting there
Those guys know pools
Posted on 4/16/25 at 6:38 pm to DickTater
Check your flow sensor. A faulty flow sensor may read salt as zero.
Posted on 4/16/25 at 8:11 pm to AUVet21
SWG fail all the time and off brands follow the same rule. It could be defective.
Visit the Trouble Free Pool site, get rid of all your chemicals and use the SLAM method to get your pool sparkling. Your chemicals use will be relegated to bleach, chlorine stabilizer and Salt.
trouble free pool
Visit the Trouble Free Pool site, get rid of all your chemicals and use the SLAM method to get your pool sparkling. Your chemicals use will be relegated to bleach, chlorine stabilizer and Salt.
trouble free pool
Posted on 4/16/25 at 8:20 pm to Bout_dat
quote:
Check your flow sensor. A faulty flow sensor may read salt as zero.
In the past when my salt readings didn't match the store test this was the problem.
Posted on 4/16/25 at 10:03 pm to AUVet21
Quit going to the pool store.
Never use flock at home. This is for people that can’t be there every day. Clean your filters. Get test strips. Get CYA under 50 and keep chlorine over 5-6 ppm for a week straight while running your pump 24/7.
Once you get a decent looking pool, then worry about your salt calibration. One thing at a time.
Never use flock at home. This is for people that can’t be there every day. Clean your filters. Get test strips. Get CYA under 50 and keep chlorine over 5-6 ppm for a week straight while running your pump 24/7.
Once you get a decent looking pool, then worry about your salt calibration. One thing at a time.
Posted on 4/17/25 at 6:56 am to AUVet21
Some great suggestions in here. There is obviosity something in your salt system malfunctioning, address that with a recommended technician.
Now to the pool. Treat it as if it were a chlorine pool not a salt, assume your salt system is down
Get a full test run as if it were a chlorine pool and adjust as needed, keep the pump/filter running 24/7. I test mine daily with a home kit when issues arise, and weekly if there is minimal rain.
Keep your chlorine between 3 and 6 and pH between 7.2 and 7.8. Use cheap bottle bleach from the store to raise chlorine, don't depend on your salt system. Can raise pH using a box of Borax.
My issues are typically low pH and/or high phosphates, and often happens after hard rains. that's me, sounds like you have other issues.
Not saying what we have is the best system out there, but we decided against salt due to families fighting theirs. We went with a UV light, and a manual dial chlorinator, it's been a great system, spend less $300 annually on chemicals. But we also have a fiberglass pool and they are known for being way easier to control versus gunite.
Now to the pool. Treat it as if it were a chlorine pool not a salt, assume your salt system is down
Get a full test run as if it were a chlorine pool and adjust as needed, keep the pump/filter running 24/7. I test mine daily with a home kit when issues arise, and weekly if there is minimal rain.
Keep your chlorine between 3 and 6 and pH between 7.2 and 7.8. Use cheap bottle bleach from the store to raise chlorine, don't depend on your salt system. Can raise pH using a box of Borax.
My issues are typically low pH and/or high phosphates, and often happens after hard rains. that's me, sounds like you have other issues.
Not saying what we have is the best system out there, but we decided against salt due to families fighting theirs. We went with a UV light, and a manual dial chlorinator, it's been a great system, spend less $300 annually on chemicals. But we also have a fiberglass pool and they are known for being way easier to control versus gunite.
Posted on 4/17/25 at 7:26 am to AUVet21
You need a proper test kit, strips and pool store are useless. I use the TF-100 for my pool.
First thing first, test kit
Get your ph between 7.2-7.6
Get your CYA where it needs to be, it can be higher than a traditional chlorine pool in support of the SWG.
Once those numbers are good you need to start the SLAM process.
Home depot/Walmart will have 1 gallon jugs of 10% liquid chlorine. Keep your chlorine at SLAM level until you can pass the overnight chlorine test.
Work the SWG issues in parallel.
First thing first, test kit
Get your ph between 7.2-7.6
Get your CYA where it needs to be, it can be higher than a traditional chlorine pool in support of the SWG.
Once those numbers are good you need to start the SLAM process.
Home depot/Walmart will have 1 gallon jugs of 10% liquid chlorine. Keep your chlorine at SLAM level until you can pass the overnight chlorine test.
Work the SWG issues in parallel.
Posted on 4/17/25 at 8:05 am to BoogaBear
quote:
You need a proper test kit, strips and pool store are useless. I use the TF-100 for my pool.
First thing first, test kit
Get your ph between 7.2-7.6
Get your CYA where it needs to be, it can be higher than a traditional chlorine pool in support of the SWG.
Once those numbers are good you need to start the SLAM process.
Home depot/Walmart will have 1 gallon jugs of 10% liquid chlorine. Keep your chlorine at SLAM level until you can pass the overnight chlorine test.
Work the SWG issues in parallel.
This is the best advice I have seen. In addition to this, as others have mentioned, clean your main filter if you haven't done that recently. I am assuming it's a cartridge filter?
Posted on 4/17/25 at 10:29 am to AUVet21
Go to Costco and get a bucket of chlorine tablets and be done with the salt. My generator failed earlier last year and that’s what I did. I put a tablet in one of the skimmers every couple of days during the colder months. In the summer I put two tablets in both skimmers and add CYA accordingly. Shock it after heavy use and heavy rains.
Salt bags are much heavier than a chlorine tablet. It’s much easier.
Salt bags are much heavier than a chlorine tablet. It’s much easier.
Posted on 4/17/25 at 10:44 am to Bro Dad
quote:
Go to Costco and get a bucket of chlorine tablets and be done with the salt.
Bad advice.
His pool is salvageable, and rather than enrich Costco/ Sam's, Wal Mart/pool stores, follow the Trouble Free Pool's website for guidance. SLAM method is your way to go to start on the simplest journey of pool maintenance.
AND, get a proven test kit and DIY!
Posted on 4/17/25 at 12:59 pm to jmon
quote:
His pool is salvageable, and rather than enrich Costco/ Sam's, Wal Mart/pool stores, follow the Trouble Free Pool's website for guidance. SLAM method is your way to go to start on the simplest journey of pool maintenance.
AND, get a proven test kit and DIY!
This is the way ....
Posted on 4/17/25 at 1:09 pm to Bro Dad
quote:
Go to Costco and get a bucket of chlorine tablets...add CYA accordingly...
Pucks will eventually create a high CYA problem. It may take a while but it's inevitable.
Posted on 4/17/25 at 1:56 pm to PerplenGold
quote:
Pucks will eventually create a high CYA problem. It may take a while but it's inevitable.
Think it depends on the chemistry of the “puck”.
Many of them now recognize that problem and specifically exclude the CYA contributor. It may still be useful to use the ones with it though, to help maintain a CYA balance as well.
Posted on 4/17/25 at 2:52 pm to armytiger96
quote:
quote:
Check your flow sensor. A faulty flow sensor may read salt as zero.
In the past when my salt readings didn't match the store test this was the problem.
Wouldn't the system throw up a "Faulty Flow Sensor" error?
Page 1 of 2
Popular
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News