LSUtigerME

Echo or Stihl

The Echo SRM-225 is typically homeowners top choice for gas powered trimmers.

I have a Stihl FS94R and it’s been solid.

One thing to consider is if you need an edger too, might be worthwhile to get a combination unit with changeable heads.

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Don’t even bother with this absolute garbage of a product. Yes, it will green your yard, but it clumps SO BAD.

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Same experience here. I use(d) a lot of it, but it’s so damn frustrating to use. Large black clumps of non-fertilizer all mixed in that won’t break up or just smear at the bottom of the spreader.

I bought a bunch of the Sunniland brand for a similar price. It’s 24-0-11, so a little less N.

I’ve also been using just straight Urea for many applications.

Put down over 200 lbs per application, so always looking for a decent price.

Looks great. You’ll have to keep leveling it off with the sand to cut it really low (if you want) and to smooth out the seams.

It’s a great time to put it down and let it really root and take off before summer.

Did you happen to inquire from Woerner on the price for Palisade Zoysia? I need to get a few pallets to put down around some trees where the Bermuda isn’t surviving.

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What does that mean in terms of time? Did they give you a ballpark estimate? I saw another poster say they only get 6 per month, but I refuse to believe they are taking 3.5 years to fulfill orders.

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I was told 6-9 months is typical wait time.

Keep in mind not everybody on the list will actually buy when it comes available, or will not wait. Flexibility on trim and colors also come into play.

The GX is also built in Japan, so it’s not clear how the pricing will be affected by tariffs.

How big is the lawn renovation?

As mentioned, only decent seed options are Bermuda or Centipede. Rye is getting a little late to use as it’ll die over the summer, and Bahia is not really a great lawn grass.

A pallet of St Aug sod to cover ~450 sqft is around $250 if you put it down yourself.

At a minimum, I’d recommend to get one pallet of St Aug (if that’s what you want) and use it as your “sprigs”. If you want any kind of decent lawn, full sod is gonna be the way to go.

You just spent all this money on leveling and top soil, and you’re gonna cheap out at the end and potentially ruin that work?

5/8” minimum, 3/4” is best.

Especially if you’ll be ripping or installing in smaller 24” wide sections.

I think it really depends on the situation and what your goals are to “justify” it.

If using a lower payment as the incentive to impact monthly cash flow, it’s a fairly easy calc. All you’re looking at is the difference in payments.

There will be equity differences over the life of the loan, but how much this matters will depend on your timeline.

If trying to decrease interest paid over the life, maybe payment is not as critical.

Another common consideration is going from a 30 to a 15, even if it increases the payment. What I always felt lacking in various calculators was comparing the refi vs existing at the same payment.

I put together my own spreadsheet and projections to compare based on what I was interested in.

Here’s an example I ran for someone a while back. Haven’t looked at this in a while.

Mount them high, but my understanding is not on the ceiling.

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You usually pay a nice chunk up front which accounts for the depreciation that they claim you don't lose on a lease.

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No, you usually do not and definitely should not. There is zero difference in purchase price or negotiation outside of incentives. The only thing you pay upfront is an acquisition fee.

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And then the payments are a little less each month but you're essentially making payments for the next owner.

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The payments are less because you’re paying ONLY the depreciation (plus a finance fee, similar to interest). This is no different than financing a vehicle over the same term, the first few years are the largest depreciation.

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The biggest problem for my particular scenario is they limit the amount of miles you can drive it and if you go over, they charge you above market value for the mileage.

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Absolutely true and this is the biggest decision in leasing. Mileage limitations and effectively forcing a trade in decision at the end of the term.

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At the end of the lease, you usually have the option of purchasing outright at the market value of the car, so maybe that is where leasing might start making sense.

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It is rarely a good financial decision to purchase at the end of a lease. Residual values are often inflated to enhance leasing and lower the payment. The mentality is not wrong in the sense of you’re effectively saying “it’s better to purchase a 3Y old vehicle”. The previous owner absorbed a majority of the depreciation.

What’s the price difference compared to a larger tractor?

I don’t think a tractor gets you out of a Zero Turn. The speed, cut quality, etc is much better.

I have 4 acres and have a 35 hp tractor. It’s been great and used it a lot over the last 6 years. Yard is just about finished now, but I’ll still use it for various things and hauling/cleaning up, cutting trees, etc.

My neighbor had a smaller tractor and it just wasn’t nearly as capable. It’s doable, and if the price was a lot cheaper, probably makes sense.

But is you’ll be chopping/tilling, hauling lots or dirt, grading, etc. I’d recommend a slightly larger tractor, at least for the 4 acre maintenance.