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1
Posted on 4/27/18 at 2:43 pm to DeoreDX
ford quoted me 399 to change my front pads and rotors. i replaced both front pads with motorcraft pads and had orileys turn the rotors for less than 70, do it your self baw.
Posted on 4/27/18 at 5:19 pm to bayou choupique
quote:
ford quoted me 399 to change my front pads and rotors. i replaced both front pads with motorcraft pads and had orileys turn the rotors for less than 70, do it your self baw.
+1
I only change my rotors if there is some shudder from warping. Generally if the vehicle hasn't been driven too hard offroad the rotors will likely be okay. Some people insist on changing them but it isn't always necessary.
If you change your pads it's super simple but either get a C-clamp or one of these brake piston compression tools. You'll be stuck without it.
Posted on 4/27/18 at 5:22 pm to mpar98
No one has stated...but don't breathe brake dust in, it really isn't good for you.
Posted on 4/27/18 at 5:44 pm to bapple
quote:
If you change your pads it's super simple but either get a C-clamp or one of these brake piston compression tools. You'll be stuck without it.
Do it myself always. On my car, a Ford, I use a large C clamp to compress the pistons in the front. The rear pistons, however, have to be compressed with that special tool from the picture above which rotates the pistons while compressing. The tool is a free borrow at Auto Zone if you put down a deposit of like $60. They give you the money back when you return it. You also don’t need to replace the rotors unless they are badly scored. You can get them turned for just a few bucks at any parts store.
Also, and this is important, use a cheater bar to loosen the bolts. A short handled socket wrench increases the risk of stripping the bolts.
This post was edited on 4/27/18 at 5:47 pm
Posted on 4/27/18 at 5:58 pm to TBoy
I have done it before. It's very basic but our local Jeep dealer only charges 139.00 a set including resurfacing so that's a no brainer for me.
Posted on 4/27/18 at 6:38 pm to mpar98
I taught my son to do it, and he did front rotors and pads on my wifes car mostly by himself in about 2 hours. It's really simple.
Posted on 4/28/18 at 1:04 am to mpar98
I have a set of rotors sitting in my garage right now. They're just waiting for a little free time.
Posted on 4/28/18 at 1:59 am to TBoy
quote:
Also, and this is important, use a cheater bar to loosen the bolts. A short handled socket wrench increases the risk of stripping the bolts.
I'm not saying using a cheater is wrong, but a shorter lever vs. A longer lever equals more force. If the bolts are going to shear it ain't going to be from the shortest wrench you got over a longer one.
Posted on 4/28/18 at 2:04 am to mpar98
Definitely worth it on my truck. Pads are cheap, and getting rotors turned at O'Reilly is like $7/rotor. I have a spare set of rotors I swap each time I do pads. Fronts take 30 minutes. Rears require air, and take 45. Still way cheaper than any shop.
I bleed the brakes on vehicles every 100k, or when I open up the braking system. Otherwise, it is a waste of time.
Also a good opportunity to check everything else out while you're down there
I bleed the brakes on vehicles every 100k, or when I open up the braking system. Otherwise, it is a waste of time.
Also a good opportunity to check everything else out while you're down there
This post was edited on 4/28/18 at 10:20 am
Posted on 4/28/18 at 5:29 am to mpar98
Worth it. Very easy to do yourself. I enjoy turning wrenches so I dont kinda look forward to doing jobs like that on my vehicles.
Posted on 4/28/18 at 4:37 pm to onelochevy
i have changed my brakes for years, never have had to bleed lines. i use a large c-clamp to compress piston.
Posted on 4/28/18 at 4:45 pm to Chris4x4gill2
quote:
Brake fluid is suppose to be changed every two years by most recommendations
I actually did not know this....
Posted on 4/28/18 at 7:30 pm to mpar98
Easy job and satisfying to do yourself. No need to bleed brakes. May need a special tool if your calipers screw in. They’ll loan you one at autozone. Had to use one on sisters explorer.
Posted on 4/28/18 at 8:12 pm to Spankum
quote:
I actually did not know this....
It's also regardless of mileage. I flushed and refilled my truck with synthetic DOT 4 brake fluid right before I put it in storage. Took it back out about 4 years later, checked all the fluids and drove it for about a week before I started having problems with the rear brakes, the pads kept dragging on the rotor. Thought something was wrong mechanically so I rebuilt the calipers with new seals, new pads, new rotors, new brake lines and had the exact same issue 3 days later. Did some research, did another complete flush of the brake system with the same fluid as before, zero problems since. Moisture in the lines near the calipers must have built up enough to boil into steam when the brakes got hot. Brake fluid was perfectly clear, but some water must have been absorbed while sitting in the garage. Now I change out fluid every other year with a Mity-vac and a modified mason jar.
Posted on 4/29/18 at 10:28 am to mpar98
What I've Changed on my Truck Since Friday:
Driver Side Passenger Side
________________________________
Break Pads Break Pads
Rotor. Rotor
Calipers Calipers
Wheel Hub Wheel Hub
Also:
_____________
Front Universal Joint
Master Cylinder
Power Break Booster Switch
Power Break Booster
Didn't take long at all. I'm not a mechanic, but so far I haven't found anything that I couldn't knock out after watching a quick YouTube how to video. I'm about to attempt to clean my oil pressure sensor. Gauge is acting quirky and it has a debris screen that can cause problems. Gonna clean the screen to see if that fixes the gauge.
Posted on 4/29/18 at 11:00 am to FelicianaTigerfan
You should never have to bleed your lines when changing brakes and rotors.
Source: My dad has worked on cars for 40+ years
Source: My dad has worked on cars for 40+ years
Posted on 4/29/18 at 12:50 pm to Clames
quote:
Now I change out fluid every other year with a Mity-vac and a modified mason jar.
I do the same thing but use the Motive Power Bleeder. It attaches to your master cylinder and pressurizes the air above the fluid. Makes changing brake fluid a piece of cake.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TK9FE8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Posted on 4/30/18 at 5:23 am to bbvdd
Honda calls for brake fluid change every 3 years. Also you run the risk of pushing crap in the lines back up into your ABS if you press the pistons back without opening the bleeder My 2 cents
Posted on 5/2/18 at 12:02 pm to bbvdd
quote:
no reason to bleed them if aren't doing anything to introduce air into the lines.
I disagree. The brakes are constantly used and the fluid gets dirty. Do you not ever change radiator fluid, engine oil? Why would you not flush the lines while changing the brakes?
My reservoir for my clutch also gets dirty looking fluid.
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