outboard troubleshooting

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The starter and flywheel will spin/crank, but the engine will not start.

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Are you getting spark?

Google E-Tec forums and go from there, I feel your pain. Has to suck having an expensive anchor nobody wants to work on.

Here is what Grok told me:

Here are some solid troubleshooting ideas you can suggest to the forum poster for his 2014 Evinrude E-TEC 150 HP that cranks (starter/flywheel spins) but won't fire up. He already replaced the VST (which includes the high-pressure fuel pump and regulator), starter solenoid, and starter itself, so the no-crank issue is fixed — but the engine still isn't getting fuel, spark, or a proper "go" signal from the computer. These engines are electronically controlled (EMM = Engine Management Module), so a lot of no-start problems hide in sensors, wiring, fuses, or fuel delivery after parts swaps.Quick & Easy Checks First (Do These Before Anything Else)Neutral safety / safety lanyard / stop circuit

Make sure the motor is in neutral (tiller or remote). The lanyard must be fully inserted and the kill switch not pulled or shorted. A grounded stop circuit is one of the most common "cranks but no start" issues on E-TECs. Wiggle the shift lever or lanyard while trying to start.

Battery voltage and connections

Check battery voltage with a multimeter: ~12.6V+ at rest. While cranking it should stay above ~10.5–11V. Clean and tighten every connection (battery posts, ground cables, solenoid, EMM plugs). Even a small voltage drop can keep the EMM from firing the injectors or ignition.

10A EMM fuse

There's a 10-amp fuse that powers the EMM (usually near the starter solenoid or battery area). Pull and check it — these blow easily and will cause a total no-start even though it cranks.

EMM LED lights (free built-in diagnostics)

Remove the cowling and look at the EMM (black box on the starboard side). Turn the key ON (don't crank yet) and note which of the 4 red LEDs light up. LED 4 should be solidly lit (means stop circuit is OK).

During cranking, watch for LED 2 — if it doesn't light or behaves oddly, it usually points to the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) or its wiring.
This is the fastest way to narrow it down without a computer.

Most Likely Culprits (Given the Recent VST + Starter Work)Fuel delivery problems (very common after VST replacement) Air in the lines or a kinked hose inside/near the new VST.

The VST needs priming — squeeze the primer bulb firmly and listen for the high-pressure pump to buzz when the key is turned ON.
Clogged VST internal filter, bad fuel, water in fuel, or leaking injector(s) flooding the engine.

Check for fuel at the rail/manifold if possible.

Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) or wiring
The EMM needs a clean CPS signal to sync and fire injectors/ignition. Since the starter and flywheel area were just worked on, the CPS (mounted near the flywheel) or its connector could have been bumped, corroded, or unplugged. This is a top "cranks but no start" cause on E-TECs.

No spark or weak ignition Fouled/worn spark plugs (E-TECs are picky about them).

Bad ignition coils or the 55V capacitor circuit that powers the ignition during start.
Pull the plugs, ground them against the block, and watch for strong blue spark while cranking.

Low/no compression or flooded engine
Do a compression test (should be 90–120+ psi per cylinder and even). Also check for excessive fuel/oil in the cylinders (flooded condition).

Next-Level Steps If Basics Don't Fix It Scan for codes — The EMM stores fault codes. The cheapest way is to buy or borrow Evinrude diagnostic software (EvDiag) and a laptop interface cable (~$100 on eBay/Amazon). Many owners do this themselves because dealers are scarce now.
Check the CPS resistance and wiring harness (service manual has the specs).

Listen for the injectors clicking when cranking.

Where to Get Help Since Mechanics Are Hard to FindJoin etecownersgroup.com (Barnacle Bill's Marine Supply forum) — it's the best E-TEC community out there. Post your exact symptoms + what you've already replaced; the regulars are extremely knowledgeable and have seen this exact scenario dozens of times.

Search for "mobile marine mechanic Evinrude E-TEC" in his area — some independents still work on them and have the diagnostic tools.
BRP still has some parts support, and aftermarket VST pumps/filters are available.

Start with the neutral/lanyard, battery/fuses, and EMM LEDs — those solve a huge percentage of these cases and cost nothing.

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Be careful checking for spark.

My ex's grandfather was troubleshooting an old 3 cylinder 70 hp Johnson and took all 3 plugs out the back of the engine. He hit the key to start it and gas came out the cylinders and the plugs ignited it. I thought we had a jet boat there for a bit.

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Wow. I wish I could have seen that. I bet there was some choice words for a minute.