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re: Teach me how to buy a car
Posted on 9/1/16 at 4:27 pm to tigersownall
Posted on 9/1/16 at 4:27 pm to tigersownall
Your best bet with your personal scenario is to get a pre approved loan with a credit union and they have pre-approved price agreements with some dealerships.
1
Posted on 9/1/16 at 4:28 pm to tigersownall
Posted on 9/1/16 at 4:35 pm to TIGRLEE
quote:
Simple.
Find what you want.
Decide how much you want to pay.
Offer it.
You win or lose.
Go next place, wash rinse repeat.
Basically this. It doesn't have to be a game. Just keep it simple.
Posted on 9/1/16 at 4:54 pm to tgrbaitn08
Know the owner of the dealership.
Posted on 9/1/16 at 4:58 pm to TigerBait2008
quote:
TigerBait2008
You are truly a terrible negative poster.
Posted on 9/1/16 at 5:00 pm to Powerman
quote:
I wouldn't ever disclose what you're willing to pay monthly
Never do this. If buying a domestic, take 25% off MSRP and negotiate down from there.
Posted on 9/1/16 at 5:14 pm to tigersownall
quote:
I'm also not opposed to buying used I just don't want to get something with 80k miles on it
As someone who routinely sells trucks with this kind of mileage and above, this shouldn't be a dealbreaker. If you find a good used truck that you like that's not been smoked in or beaten on, has been taken care of and the dealer can prove that to you, give it a second or third look. You'll be amazed at how much life and how many miles trucks like that have left in them. Hell, I've sold a few trucks with twice that mileage that are still treating their owners very well.
In general, for used trucks, I would start by looking at Tundras and go from there. Easily the most long-lived trucks on the road. My dealership got a 2007 Tundra on trade last week with 287k miles that looks and drives like it's got at least another 287k left in it. Truck was meticulously maintained by its owner and was driven all over this great state (Montana) many times over because of his job.
That's the exception to the rule, yes, but it's just an example. A used Tundra is your absolute best bet for a truck with 80-100k miles and above. Good luck.
This post was edited on 9/1/16 at 5:15 pm
Posted on 9/1/16 at 5:22 pm to tigersownall
Go to your local bank or credit union and get a loan. Don't buy something that costs more than $20k since you can't afford it
Posted on 9/1/16 at 5:31 pm to tigersownall
quote:They will think you are a broke dick and only sell you crap vehicles. Tell them you can afford double that.
How do I tell them I only want to pay 400-450 a month on a note
Posted on 9/1/16 at 5:36 pm to kywildcatfanone
quote:
Never do this. If buying a domestic, take 25% off MSRP and negotiate down from there.
Huh?
Posted on 9/1/16 at 5:37 pm to tigersownall
Step 1: decide what car model you want and what features
Step 2: decide the lowest amount you think you could ever get away with paying for it.
Step 3: enter this information on TrueCar. They will find a dealership willing to give you that exact car at, or as close as possible to, the price you demanded. If that car isn't in stock locally, they will order it for you a no extra charge and notify you when it arrives. To get that garanteed price, simply print out the TrueCar coupon and bring it to the dealership.
It really can't get any easier.
Step 2: decide the lowest amount you think you could ever get away with paying for it.
Step 3: enter this information on TrueCar. They will find a dealership willing to give you that exact car at, or as close as possible to, the price you demanded. If that car isn't in stock locally, they will order it for you a no extra charge and notify you when it arrives. To get that garanteed price, simply print out the TrueCar coupon and bring it to the dealership.
It really can't get any easier.
Posted on 9/1/16 at 5:38 pm to Janky
quote:
Know the owner's wife of the dealership.
Posted on 9/1/16 at 5:39 pm to tigersownall
quote:
550-640
Correction, that is not a decent credit score.
Posted on 9/1/16 at 5:44 pm to RoyalBaby
Will doesn't like extended warranties...
You couldn't pay me the price of the warranty to not buy the warranty.
I have made out like a bandit on every single warranty purchase.
You couldn't pay me the price of the warranty to not buy the warranty.
I have made out like a bandit on every single warranty purchase.
Posted on 9/1/16 at 5:45 pm to TIGRLEE
quote:
Simple. Find what you want. Decide how much you want to pay. Offer it. You win or lose. Go next place, wash rinse repeat.
fricking this.
I just bought a Cherokee for my wife 2 days ago. I've had lots of vehicles because of my job and I hate dealers.
DO NOT TELL THEM what you want to pay a month. Haggle over the price, and remember the price you see doesn't include tax, title, and license.
Find something you like and tell them I want the price to be X including ttl. Like I want this truck at 25000 including ttl.
When the vultures start to circle when you walk on the lot tell them you are paying cash. When you get the price you want tell them you've decided to finance.
Tell them you don't want to see that fricking 4 square piece of paper they try to show you how much your payment will be.
AND FOR frickS SAKE BE READY TO STAND UP AND WALK OUT if you don't get exactly what you want.
Buying a used vehicle with lower miles isn't bad either if you have get a nice warranty. Watch out for the Gap insurance, and hell no you don't need an extended warranty from them. You can find that cheaper somewhere else if you need it.
Posted on 9/1/16 at 6:05 pm to 756
quote:
Your best bet with your personal scenario is to get a pre approved loan with a credit union and they have pre-approved price agreements with some dealerships.
In almost every single case, you will pay more for a vehicle going this route. It is usually the X plan, which is around $250 over "invoice".
There is some good advice here, and in Will's post. There is also some that may not benefit you that much. For instance, starting at 25% below MSRP and working down will usually get you ignored pretty good. GM, for example, has about an 8.5% markup on trucks over invoice cost. Most makes of cars are roughly the same. Yes, there is holdback, advertising, etc, etc, that dealers have in the cost of the vehicle that is "dealer" money...but only to an extent, and it really depends on age of vehicle and other things. Dealer holdback is a floor plan for the dealer. In other words, a dealer finances a car from the manufacturer. The interest the dealer pays comes out of that holdback. The less time he has a particular vehicle, the more of that holdback he gets.
Basically, there are whole host of things that can benefit you....and cost you....when buying a car, much of which you won't know about. Best advice I can give having sold a few in my time, is to find a smaller dealer, typically out of the major cities, and work from there. And never tell them how much you can pay per month. There is no better feeling as a car salesman than to have someone tell you a price they can pay per month. That shows you are vulnerable, able to be persuaded, and almost always willing to pay a bit more.
Posted on 9/1/16 at 6:13 pm to tigersownall
Sold cars for 2 years, please listen.
With 660, first go to your bank. Tell them $450 a month. A reasonable interest rate will be about 9% with a down payment. I'd be surprised if any lower, any higher than 13%, you're getting fudged. You might try a credit union first.
At that price a month, your looking at around a 20k vehicle with a 5 year note. Do not get a 6 year on a used car.
With your rating, I'd save up about 1,000 at least for a down payment. For a pickup, your looking at a 60k and up 4 seater basic model.
Once you go to a bank, go to the Internet and find a dealership. It's tough with used cars because the one you want is likely gone when you get to the lot. Also, find a friend who has a good reference for a car salesman. Despite what people think, salesmen make their living from repeats and references and aren't out to frick people. You might even be able to get a better rate at the dealer finance office.
With 660, first go to your bank. Tell them $450 a month. A reasonable interest rate will be about 9% with a down payment. I'd be surprised if any lower, any higher than 13%, you're getting fudged. You might try a credit union first.
At that price a month, your looking at around a 20k vehicle with a 5 year note. Do not get a 6 year on a used car.
With your rating, I'd save up about 1,000 at least for a down payment. For a pickup, your looking at a 60k and up 4 seater basic model.
Once you go to a bank, go to the Internet and find a dealership. It's tough with used cars because the one you want is likely gone when you get to the lot. Also, find a friend who has a good reference for a car salesman. Despite what people think, salesmen make their living from repeats and references and aren't out to frick people. You might even be able to get a better rate at the dealer finance office.
This post was edited on 9/1/16 at 6:17 pm
Posted on 9/1/16 at 6:25 pm to X123F45
Warranty companies are a major PITA to deal with. Unless you know about cars and are good at arguing, I wouldn't advise getting one
Posted on 9/1/16 at 6:31 pm to alajones
To the OP...on the attitude side...be confident and be willing to get up and walk out.
You can come back, but be willing to show them your back at least once.
You can come back, but be willing to show them your back at least once.
Posted on 9/1/16 at 6:32 pm to tigersownall
Simple: handle the note at your bank and focus on the cash price at the dealer. Once you get the cash price to fit the note you have at the bank you can entertain allowing the dealer to finance it and if they beat the deal go for it. And don't buy your car the first trip in
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