re: Post a pic of something that shows we solved a problem 75-100 years ago and then regressed

Car batteries avg 3 years now. First battery I had lasted 7 years. My dad's battery lasted 10 if not more.

Nowadays the snowflakes melt over anything.

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Her Macbook started warning her that her battery has reached the limit of their recommended number of cycles. They wanted $300 to replace the battery.

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Bought my MacBook Pro back in 2010 and I changed my battery out twice, once at 5 year and the other at 10 year ($50 from Amazon). Easily done and battery even comes with tools. I’ve never had a product that performed as good as MacBook Pro.

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How much of that is quality, versus more demand (added electronics, computer, etc.)

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The power should have increased with the demand See Elon Musk.

Glass headlights on vehicles until the 90s can still be cleaned with a cloth & soap and polished and look as good as new.

compare that to the fancy plastic crap they've installed on cars the last 20+ years that need all kinds of stupid sanding & polishing just to make them look good for a few more months...

from this



to this

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incorrect. see the pic above.

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Who amongst has not put a kid in a refrigerator drawer before.

You are preaching to the choir. My modern refrigerator and washer dryer have both failed in spectacular fashion in recent years. The old appliances I replaced were working fine, I just wanted modern appliances.

I was today years old when I learned that the Speed Queen W/D of Home & Garden Board fame was a simple/old school machine and not some bougie new-age set

I haven't been in the market for a W/D in the past few years so I never bothered looking them up

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I was today years old when I learned that the Speed Queen W/D of Home & Garden Board fame was a simple/old school machine and not some bougie new-age set

I haven't been in the market for a W/D in the past few years so I never bothered looking them up

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c'mon slag. napoleon has 100+ posts over the years on here touting 1975-2000s era whirlpool and speed queen. one of his last posts was someone was dumping a 2003 commercial stainless steel speed queen and he was like 'holy grail!' and moved those to his house. That era speed queen combined with the fact it was a commercial unit means that napoleon will probably never have to do anything to it in his lifetime.

Here are various replies from Napoleon over the last 10 years

Napoleon wrote:

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I think 1976-2011 Direct Drive machines by Whirlpool are the pinnacle of the domestic washing machine.
The next step up is the speed queen from any vintage.
Then the 1974-1992 Maytag
then the 91-04 maytag

long space

Then the 96-14 Frigidaire with the separate drain pump.

Then any GE built by Frigidaire

Then I guess the 96-05 GE before they put the control on the motor.

It's getting hard to talk people into keeping their old machines, when you can get a new for $300.

But a new $300 machine may last 3-5 years.
Hard to find washers with mechanical controls.
Energy Star screwed it all up.



(but for me, I should tell everyone to buy GE products and Samsungs, I make the most fixing those.. )

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Those (1980s maytags) are great units, but the 80 series Kenmore and the Whirlpool it is based off of are the GOAT. Maytag has a lot more parts, and the bearings jam up often. A belt is like $5 and should be changed anytime the cabinet is open (unless it's been serviced in the last year or two)

Honestly though a dryer is a dryer, a 2015 Samsung isn't much more complicated than a 1978 Maytag once you open the cabinet.

All units have heat, motor, drum support and a friction reducing surface to use.

Newer ones only really add in extra thermal cut-offs and now sensors called "thermistors". It's the way dryers are controlled that has changed. In fact the gas coils introduced by Maytga in the 80's are the foctory standard on all gas dryers. You could take the coils out of a 1980 Maytag and put them right in a 2015 GE.

(of course they are only a $10 part so that owuld be silly)

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I sell old units as a side gig. I may sell 1-2 a week. I have a really hard time selling anything made before 2002.
Sadly laundry tech peaked at that time. Post energy star timers and controls suck arse.
I can make a 1990's Kenmore or Maytag set last forever with a really good shot of preventive maintenance.
The ones from the 80's are even better. It's just people want to buy based off of looks.

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No, they are from a 1973 design. When Whirlpool and Sears began development and started the Whirlpool takeover of the lady Kenmore line.

I prefer Whirlpool made Kenmores to pre-Whirlpool Maytags (new Maytags are rebranded Whirlpools like Kenmore is) because the washers are direct drive and not belt drive. The units are easier to work on and the cabinet design is better. Also Whirlpool used a serviceble transmission and an easy to change clutch.

Dryers are a push.
The only brand I tend to tell people to avoid is GE. Their controls from 1996-2012 where held in place by a plastic tab. You overturn that "turn to start switch" and instead of a $35 switch you need to buy a $160 panel because of how cheaply made the panel was.

GE also uses mylar glides to support the drum instead of roller bearings. Maytags and Whirlpools are very similar even on that vintage. I think even many of the motors are interchangeable.

I think one reason I prefer Whirlpool is the high quality of FSP parts and the longevity of their designs.

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Hold over from the 70 series Kenmore line it is based on. Ropers are great, they use old simple technology and are billed as the brand for rentals.
They are cheap to keep going.
Yes that lint trap is a pain, BUT it is also more efficient that most front lint traps and the rear fan has a solid seal at the exhaust, while front vents are squeezed in by the panel holding the front door.

One tip, if you ever burn the white fusable link in a dryer, it is not because the dryer has issues, it's because the air coming out is restricted and you need to clean your exhaust.

Dryer exhaust is a leading cause of house fires, and so few people have their lint exhaust or dryers cleaned.
I rarely bring it up anymore as people think I'm just trying to make an extra buck, when it really is because of how important it is to keep that area clear.

I also mention this, because that 'link' is a $10 part and many less than reputable techs would rather charge for the element and fuse kit (like $90) as they make a much greater return on investment.

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IGNORE THE GREAT NAPOLEON'S ADVICE AT YOUR OWN RISK