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Started By
Message
Posted on 10/1/21 at 7:28 am to Mottleduk
quote:
I need a watch that will take a beating.
quote:
I’d like to keep the price under $500, so OT....whatcha got?
Timex Ironman - around $40
You're welcome.
Posted on 10/3/21 at 10:28 am to Mottleduk
Thanks for all of the recommendations guys. I always pay close attention to some of you watch guys on here. I think I’m down to the luminox navy seal or the luminox recon point. I keep looking at the citizen eco drives, though. Analog suits me just fine, so I’ve all but stopped looking at the analog/digital watches. I know many on here have thrown out G-shock as a rec, but I’ve been through 3. The last one stopped solar charging and the digital date wouldn’t set. The one before that just crapped out after years of hunting in the marsh (salt water i guess??) and i cracked my first one calling defensive signals in a football game (smashed it against a players helmet). Once again....thanks for the recs OT.
Posted on 10/3/21 at 10:48 am to Mottleduk
Get a quartz Marathon.
https://longislandwatch.com/marathon-tsar-dive-watch-ww194007/
https://longislandwatch.com/marathon-tsar-dive-watch-ww194007/
This post was edited on 10/3/21 at 10:52 am
Posted on 10/3/21 at 10:52 am to Mottleduk
quote:Face it kid, let me make this crystal clear: in case you watch me closely all the time then you’ll wind up better than most, hands down.
I always pay close attention to some of you watch guys on here.
This post was edited on 10/3/21 at 10:54 am
Posted on 10/3/21 at 11:13 am to Mottleduk
quote:
I think I’m down to the luminox navy seal or the luminox recon point
Can't argue with those choices. I would prefer a Marathon TSAR but it is over your stated budget. One other place to look is the lower end of Seiko's Prospex line. They have some very durable quartz watches but most are not tacticool like the Luminox.
A note about saltwater exposure. It is brutal on metal even the 316L stainless that many watches use. It has a habit of pitting in the cracks and crevices around the seals. Best practice for a watch post saltwater immersion is rinse it well in freshwater turning the bezel if it has a rotating bezel then letting it sit in a cup of water for 1-2 hours then repeat the rinsing. I am OCD about my dive watches and will leave them in a ziplock bag of freshwater until the next day if I am continuing to dive. An ounce of prevention and all that.
Posted on 10/3/21 at 11:18 am to Hangover Haven
Lumi-Nox
Indestructible.
Indestructible.
Posted on 10/3/21 at 12:47 pm to Obtuse1
Obtuse, i have been eyeballing a Seiko Prospex Monster SRPH13. Thoughts?
Posted on 10/3/21 at 1:42 pm to texasmason
Luminox lasts forever, until the face breaks and it gets wet. Then it’s $500 to repair. Yep. The $300 watch is $500 to repair.
Luminox doesn’t last forever
Luminox doesn’t last forever
This post was edited on 10/3/21 at 1:43 pm
Posted on 10/3/21 at 1:56 pm to texasmason
Yeah no contest. From 50$ to 5 hundred. Plenty of options
Posted on 10/3/21 at 2:12 pm to Mottleduk
quote:
Seiko Prospex Monster SRPH13
That watch has a mechanical movement which could be compared to an AK47 in terms of mechanical movements but based on your track record of breaking G-Shocks mechanical movements wouldn't be my choice for your usage. That isn't to say you couldn't buy it and wear it for 10 years with zero issues but it isn't my choice for your use case. For you I would suggest staying with a quartz movement. Something like the SNJ025 AKA Arnie might work for you but be aware it is a large watch. That being said if you like the look of Luminox they are string value for money in the price range. If you search around you can usually find good prices on them, Sierra.com usually has good prices but a limited and variable number available at any given time.
Posted on 10/3/21 at 5:02 pm to Obtuse1
Fancy g shocks there. Never seen that line before. Rugged or no g shock
Posted on 10/3/21 at 5:20 pm to adp
quote:
Fancy g shocks there. Never seen that line before.
A lot of watch brands over the last decade have either gone upscale or added more upscale lines/watches and Casio is among them. While you can still buy a "square" AKA 5X00 series G-Shock for under $50 street price they quite a few G-Shocks over $1k and some as high as $5k. A couple of years ago they made 35 solid 18k 5600 series squares for the 35th anniversary that were roughly $70,000.
There are a lot of serious G-Shock collectors and apparently, more than 35 that are well-heeled since they sold them without any sort of public offering.
Posted on 10/3/21 at 8:10 pm to Mottleduk
Nothing better than a good watch. Eventually they can become an old friend. I bought this Seiko DX self winding watch in the PX at FT. Lewis, WA in April of 1971, one week before I got out of Basic. That makes it over 50 years old. It has been faithful, working just fine when I thought I was dead. We have visited hell several times and it came through probably better than I did. It has circumnavigated the globe several times and after a cleaning last month, should last another long time. I had the Seiko service guys in New Jersey clean it maybe 10 years ago, and for some reason they changed the metal band. I still have the original band and often think I should put it back on, since it seems fine to me.
Posted on 10/3/21 at 8:11 pm to Obtuse1
I have these two Seiko divers that are both good to 200 meters.
I fell in love with the bezel of the automatic SKX171 on the right, but I've had problems keeping it running since I got it. I've sent it off twice to be repaired. Both times it worked when it came back, but if I don't wear it, it stops, and I can't get it to run again. I bought the other, cheap, solar one that I can put on an LED charger for a couple of hours, and it runs for months. It's similar, but has a thick bezel that makes it too bulky for my tastes.
I also bought the regular very lightweight, Citizen Eco-Drive Promaster Diver that's good to 200 meters. Got it for $120 on Amazon and wear it most of the time. I gave my nephew one of the blue ones when he was commissioned as a SWCC Chief Warrant Officer.
Obtuse1,
Is there a secret to how to keep an automatic watch running when you don't want to wear it every day? Do you pay people to wear all of those watches in your collection, when you're not wearing them?
I fell in love with the bezel of the automatic SKX171 on the right, but I've had problems keeping it running since I got it. I've sent it off twice to be repaired. Both times it worked when it came back, but if I don't wear it, it stops, and I can't get it to run again. I bought the other, cheap, solar one that I can put on an LED charger for a couple of hours, and it runs for months. It's similar, but has a thick bezel that makes it too bulky for my tastes.
I also bought the regular very lightweight, Citizen Eco-Drive Promaster Diver that's good to 200 meters. Got it for $120 on Amazon and wear it most of the time. I gave my nephew one of the blue ones when he was commissioned as a SWCC Chief Warrant Officer.
Obtuse1,
Is there a secret to how to keep an automatic watch running when you don't want to wear it every day? Do you pay people to wear all of those watches in your collection, when you're not wearing them?
This post was edited on 10/3/21 at 8:16 pm
Posted on 10/3/21 at 9:03 pm to chinese58
quote:
SKX171 on the right, but I've had problems keeping it running since I got it.
Forgive me if I am telling you something you already know but the SKX171 has a 7S26 movement that does NOT allow hand-winding so if the mainspring has run down it needs to be gently shaken to get it running. Seiko's have a very efficient automatic winding system so it will reach full wind in short order on the wrist. Just looking at the picture if the watch was stopped when the picture was taken it looks like it is at the end of its power reserve and stopped when the extra torque to switch the date was required
As a bit of trivia for anyone that cares and is unaware the SKX171 is the same case and movement as the venerable SKX007 and can accept most of the same mods.
As for my watches I have a variety of movements some are automatic and some are manual wind, some hack and some don't. I change watches everyday and my routine is if the watch hacks I pull the stem to hack it so then when roughly 2 months later when I put it on again I just have to set it and it is fully wound. Non-hacking movements I just let them run down and set and wind them when I out them on. All my watches manual wind so I never have to shake them but I have had those movements in the past. I enjoy the ritual of setting and putting in a new watchit allows me that moment to actual admire them and I usually fall back in love with them in those few moments. There are times I think about selling a watch but then it comes up in rotation and I am reminded why I bought it to begin with.
There is the option of using watch winders but I don't want to deal with the space they take up and the cost, it is much more approachable if you only have 1 or a few watches. I just like mine all sitting together in cases some people really like to display their watches and see the movement of all the winders, mine just sit in the back part of the closet.
ETA there are tons of inexpensive watch winders if you want to go that route, I don't really pay much attention to them but there are plenty of threads on the Watchuseek Books/Tools/Winder sub forum. I could recommend Orbita and Wolf only because I have seen then discussed frequently but they are extremely expensive. That said I have never seen a winder company that didn't make a lemon once in a while. Note with any winder you will need to set it for the proper turns per day and direction for your specific movement, especially for a Seiko the info is easy to find even if not included in the winder's manual which might be the case with a lot of Chinese product, I don't know.
This post was edited on 10/3/21 at 9:09 pm
Posted on 10/3/21 at 9:06 pm to Mottleduk
quote:You considering buying watches for rugged men?
Best rugged men’s wristwatch?
Sounds like an Aggie Board question.
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