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Started By
Message
Building a wood fence this weekend, any pro tips?
Posted on 3/11/22 at 10:13 pm
Posted on 3/11/22 at 10:13 pm
I have repaired and replaced quite a few times, am fairly handy, and have the general concept down, but looking for any pro tips to make it easier?
11
Posted on 3/11/22 at 10:47 pm to Tigerpaw123
Use stainless fasteners if doing cedar.
Posted on 3/11/22 at 10:59 pm to Tigerpaw123
Be careful about drawing lines and popping dark chalk lines, they'll both show for a long time, a self-leveling laser would be helpful.
Posted on 3/12/22 at 12:35 am to Tigerpaw123
Use screws, not nails
Posted on 3/12/22 at 3:43 am to Tigerpaw123
I hate to say it but I will never sink another treated wood post into the ground with concrete.
I've had posts rot out at the base in 5 years lately (yes the concrete was sloped away from the post and not in a low area where water collected).
Modern treated lumber sucks.
I would only recommend galvanized metal posts (square or round) or postmaster posts. Buy once, cry once.
I've had posts rot out at the base in 5 years lately (yes the concrete was sloped away from the post and not in a low area where water collected).
Modern treated lumber sucks.
I would only recommend galvanized metal posts (square or round) or postmaster posts. Buy once, cry once.
Posted on 3/12/22 at 7:10 am to Tigerpaw123
use all screws
Use 16 ft runners and stagger them across the posts if you can
make a little jig so you can quickly space your fence boards
I also used a jig as a way to make the top of the fence boards the same height from the top runner. makes a nice clean line on top
Use 16 ft runners and stagger them across the posts if you can
make a little jig so you can quickly space your fence boards
I also used a jig as a way to make the top of the fence boards the same height from the top runner. makes a nice clean line on top
Posted on 3/12/22 at 7:44 am to AndyCBR
quote:
Modern treated lumber sucks.
Amen to that. Three years ago I replaced my back stairs from my 2nd floor porch down to ground level by my patio and used 2 x 12 x 12 treated lumber for the stringers. The stairs that were originally there were put up by me in the mid 90's
About a year ago I noticed one of the steps was wonky and saw where I had cut where the tread was placed was rotting out and now I have 4 treads out of the 11 in that staircase I've had to brace from underneath to make them safe to use. So, doing the math, my stringers only lasted 2 years before rot started setting in-----and that is unacceptable.
I'm changing them out again this spring and thinking about going with steel this time around. I'd rather paint them every 3-4 years than replace them in the same amount of time.
Posted on 3/12/22 at 7:53 am to AndyCBR
quote:
Modern treated lumber sucks.
The fence guy who put mine up strongly advised me to go high grade galvanized posts and not wood. It was the same price so he wasn’t trying to make more money, said he didn’t want to put up a fence and have to come back to redo it in 5-10yrs.
Posted on 3/12/22 at 7:56 am to AndyCBR
quote:
hate to say it but I will never sink another treated wood post into the ground with concrete.
Yep.
Either coat bottom in tar, buy metal, or check out post protectors.
Post Protector
Posted on 3/12/22 at 8:11 am to Tigerpaw123
Get a post level. Can use it for post and rails
Posted on 3/12/22 at 9:01 am to Nicky Parrish
If using wood posts ... 6x6 they will outlast 4x4s two to one
Also if posts are extended put a cap on them. Cleaner look and saves top of post rotting
Also if posts are extended put a cap on them. Cleaner look and saves top of post rotting
Posted on 3/12/22 at 9:25 am to AndyCBR
quote:
I hate to say it but I will never sink another treated wood post into the ground with concrete.
I live in N.O. and if I use my PHD (post hole digger) and dig a hole 2 ft. into the ground, it will start filling with water as I'm digging.
I have a back yard vegetable garden that I've built trellises for climbing plants and I use 4 x 4's for the meat of the structures and never cement them in.
I just set them in the ground and tamp the dirt around the posts since they will eventually rot anyway and not having cement on them makes it easier to remove and replace them.
Posted on 3/12/22 at 2:55 pm to LSUfan20005
quote:
Yep.
Either coat bottom in tar, buy metal, or check out post protectors.
Post Protector
A friend who builds pole barns sinks his treated 6x6 posts into drums of used motor\hydraulic oil for a week or so before installing. Coats them up about 3 feet.
He said they last much longer than the just treated ones.
Posted on 3/12/22 at 10:11 pm to Tigerpaw123
A squared plus b squared equals c squared
Posted on 3/13/22 at 10:00 pm to GreenRockTiger
quote:
Use screws, not nails
Absolutely 100%. I wish I had more than 1 upvote for you.
Holds securely, and if (meaning when) you need to replace some planks before painting/staining next time, they are easy to remove, and a lot of them can be reused, assuming you bought good quality coated screws (Deck-Mate for example).
Posted on 3/14/22 at 7:44 am to LEASTBAY
Would Coated deck screws be ok with cedar also?
Posted on 3/14/22 at 1:17 pm to AndyCBR
quote:
Modern treated lumber sucks.
This 100%. Total BS when some of these lumber suppliers have stamped on the lumber that it is for ground contact. Yeah ground contact for about 5 years.
Posted on 3/14/22 at 1:53 pm to TygerDurden
Tiger123 ... how did the fence construction go?
Posted on 3/14/22 at 6:32 pm to OntarioTiger
Did pretty good, got most of it done, still going to be a few hours work in the evening nailing the pickets, but it is a success so far, just more work than I anticipated
Posted on 3/15/22 at 6:53 am to Tigerpaw123
Sounds like it went well - if you are happy with the results that's good. Projects always take longer then expected especially when its not something we do everyday.
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