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1
Posted on 5/25/23 at 1:26 pm to KentuckyArcher
Just finished first cut with it. Wow, what a difference between this and push mowing! It had been two weeks since I cut (I had been deliberately delaying cutting hoping I'd be able to get a new mower before I had to push it again). Grass was long as hell and this thing didn't even blink mowing through it. 
I've got to learn how to deal with slopes better. I got into a little bit of a bind down by the bulkhead near the lake in my backyard and along a slope between my pool and the neighbor's fence. Those were some pucker moments for sure. I ended up getting off of it and manually pivoting the machine to a safe direction when I got into the bind by the lake.
I've got to learn how to deal with slopes better. I got into a little bit of a bind down by the bulkhead near the lake in my backyard and along a slope between my pool and the neighbor's fence. Those were some pucker moments for sure. I ended up getting off of it and manually pivoting the machine to a safe direction when I got into the bind by the lake.
This post was edited on 5/25/23 at 2:18 pm
Posted on 5/25/23 at 4:04 pm to lnomm34
never take a slope sideways...always uphill or downhill
This post was edited on 5/25/23 at 4:05 pm
Posted on 5/25/23 at 5:26 pm to lnomm34
I’d say sharpest blades Atleast once a season.
Every 50 hours change oil and filter, air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs.
Usually can get these things all in a package together if you know your mower serial.
I do most of that stuff once a year. Blades need leveling every so often depending how rough I get in the back yard.
Every 50 hours change oil and filter, air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs.
Usually can get these things all in a package together if you know your mower serial.
I do most of that stuff once a year. Blades need leveling every so often depending how rough I get in the back yard.
Posted on 5/25/23 at 7:04 pm to lnomm34
I’ve got a 7 yr old Patriot Scag. You’ll want an impact gun to change the blades. I don’t use a jack. I just pull it back with the rops and put cinder blocks under the tires. Not osha approved but I’m not dumb about it.
I’ve replaced the starter and the pto switch. Those pto switches are the same in all the brands and it’s easy and cheap to fix. Love my mower. I cut 6 acres with mine.
I’ve replaced the starter and the pto switch. Those pto switches are the same in all the brands and it’s easy and cheap to fix. Love my mower. I cut 6 acres with mine.
Posted on 5/26/23 at 2:34 pm to Ncook
quote:
Don’t wash it !!!
Wait. Why??
The owner's manual says:
This post was edited on 5/26/23 at 2:44 pm
Posted on 5/26/23 at 2:50 pm to Bobby OG Johnson
quote:
3/8 cordless impact is great for removing and installing blades
The newer 1/4" impact drivers have enough power to remove lawn mower blades. I used my 1/4" to remove lug nuts on my truck a while back.
As for changing the blade, I would use a torque wrench to install it to the proper torque value outlined in the owner's manual. Typically it's somewhere around 40-50 foot/lbs. An impact wrench can easily put 200 ft/lbs of torque on that nut and that's WAY too tight. A nut that tight is not good for the engine.
Posted on 5/26/23 at 2:53 pm to AUstar
quote:
As for changing the blade, I would use a torque wrench to install it to the proper torque value outlined in the owner's manual. Typically it's somewhere around 40-50 foot/lbs. An impact wrench can easily put 200 ft/lbs of torque on that nut and that's WAY too tight. A nut that tight is not good for the engine.
Nice advice. I definitely don't want tight nuts.
Posted on 5/26/23 at 3:51 pm to lnomm34
quote:
Don’t wash it !!!
You can wash it. When you’re done mowing it’s always best to let it cool before introducing water but you can wash it.
Posted on 5/26/23 at 6:16 pm to AUstar
quote:
Typically it's somewhere around 40-50 foot/lbs
Torque specs for the blades on this mower is 75 ft lbs
quote:
An impact wrench can easily put 200 ft/lbs
My 3/8 Kobalt impact says max is 150 ft/lbs & will not remove the lug nuts from my truck or trailers. Tried on both on the side of the road with flats. It has 3 settings & does just fine on #2 for blade changing.
I gave up skinning my knuckles & hands real quick
Posted on 5/27/23 at 9:32 am to lnomm34
I know this is overkill, but a few years back, I bought a blade balancer. When I pull the blades off to sharpen, I always balance the blades. It's also surprising to find how some blade manufacturers do a pretty poor job of ensuring brand new blades are balanced before leaving the factory.
Blade balancer...
Blade balancer...
Posted on 5/27/23 at 12:28 pm to lnomm34
I came here to look for tomato plant tips and saw this post and figured I would offer a "tip", others may not agree with. I just got off my Liberty Z after cutting my yard. I LOVE it, BTW.
First thing I did was take that big plastic "whatchamacallit" off the deck where the clippings, (and stuff), fly out, which I guess is a safety feature. I found it just got in the way, especially in tight places.
I know you probably would hesitate to do so, being all shiny and new BUT, keep the thought, as you may see what I mean in the future.
Only other tip I can offer, I haven't seen mentioned is wash the grass off under the deck with a hose. The clippings build up and can cause issues.
Enjoy that fabulous new toy.
First thing I did was take that big plastic "whatchamacallit" off the deck where the clippings, (and stuff), fly out, which I guess is a safety feature. I found it just got in the way, especially in tight places.
I know you probably would hesitate to do so, being all shiny and new BUT, keep the thought, as you may see what I mean in the future.
Only other tip I can offer, I haven't seen mentioned is wash the grass off under the deck with a hose. The clippings build up and can cause issues.
Enjoy that fabulous new toy.
Posted on 5/27/23 at 2:26 pm to lnomm34
quote:
Decided on a 36" SCAG Liberty Z,
I own this one as well. I've had it for almost 5 years. Rock solid.
I change my own oil. For everything else, I service it once a year and have the blades sharpened annually.
Congratulations on your purchase. It's a great machine.
This post was edited on 5/27/23 at 2:27 pm
Posted on 5/27/23 at 4:58 pm to LookSquirrel
quote:
take that big plastic "whatchamacallit" off the deck where the clippings, (and stuff), fly out, which I guess is a safety feature. I found it just got in the way, especially in tight places.
Chute is the word you’re lookin for.
But yes I agree. I don’t want to leave it completely off. I’d like to get an operator controlled discharge chute (OCDC) but I damn sure don’t want to pay the prices they’re asking for those. Might end up with a bungee cord like most folks to lift and lower the chute.
Posted on 5/29/23 at 10:42 am to Tigers4Lyfe
If you're not a mechanic like me just factor in about $200 dollars a year for maintenance on your mower. I would ask you dealer if they have a program that will come pick up your mower and drop it back off if you don't own a trailer like me. Sone dealers will offer that seasonally as part of a warranty program
Posted on 5/29/23 at 10:45 am to lnomm34
Keep the chute on but you can add the mulching feature to your mower so if you have a lot of leaves it pulverizes them much faster so your not having to go back over the same spot multiple times. It's a minimal up front investment and one I wish I had done
Posted on 5/29/23 at 10:51 am to Herman
I need the ability to flip up the big plastic chute to squeeze into some tight areas in my yard.
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