re: 2022 Spring Garden Thread

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I'm looking for advice on preventative inelsecticides and fungicides. I tried to go organic the last 2 seasons, but ended up with too many problems. Right now I've got 3 raised beds. One with tomatoes and some yellow onions. One with peppers and cucumbers. And one with green beans. The beans and cucumbers got hit hard in the fall.

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Organic disease and pest management:

Neem Oil
I’ve been using neem oil for a long time. It has insecticidal and fungicidal properties. Maybe even some anti bacterial properties. For the full benefits it is recommended to use “cold pressed” neem oil mixed with an emulsifier (castile soap is what I use). Products that come “ready to use” usually are already emulsified and are produced in a way that reduces the amount of azadirachtin. Azadirachtin's primary mode of action is an anti-feedant, but it can also disrupt growth cycles, sterilize adults, and deter egg laying.

Liquid Copper
Liquid copper is a broad-spectrum fungicide and bactericide. It works by coating the plant surface and reacting with moisture. This releases copper ions that kill bacteria and fungal spores. As with pretty much all fungicides, it is a preventative and will not “cure” existing infections. But it helps prevent spread. It works very well, but read labels carefully. Too much can be toxic to plants, and excess can build up in the soil.

Pyrethrin
Pyrethrin is naturally derived from chrysanthemum flowers. It is a contact insecticide with a very short residual.

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Pyrethrin affects an insect’s nervous system through a deadly toxic effect. Almost immediately upon contact with this compound, the insect dies from a form of paralysis. This effect is what makes pyrethrin a highly effective insecticide.

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I’ve used a brand called Pyganic for a couple years and it works extremely well. Even kills stink bugs and leaf-footed bugs when used at the higher end of recommended concentration.

Spinosad
Another organic insecticide. I’ve never used it because there are claims that it can be harmful to beneficial insects as well as the bad ones. So I’ve never really taken the chance on it. And never really needed to. But it’s apparently extremely effective and targets many insects and caterpillars.

Thuricide
Very effective at killing caterpillars. The way it works is pretty brutal. The caterpillars eat it. Their high pH stomach breaks down the crystal bond releasing the bacterial spores. These bind to their intestines and cause tears. This causes them to become septic and die. I’ve used this stuff for years with great results. Many people get impatient with it because they expect immediate results. But the caterpillars usually take a few days to die. Good news is they do stop eating only hours after ingesting it. I find it a better long term solution to controlling caterpillars as opposed to contact poisons.

Hydrogen Peroxide
Since peroxide breaks down into just water and oxygen, it is considered organic in the garden. This is one of those things I wish I would’ve known about a long time ago. It is extremely cheap and effective. I use it as a fungal preventative during and after prolonged wet periods. As a foliar spray, and a root drench. Foliar application helps prevent fungal and bacterial diseases from taking hold, and a root drench prevents root rot and provides oxygen to the root zone.
Hydrogen Peroxide mixing chart for garden use
In the link above, I use the first chart when spraying as a preventative. If fungal disease does take hold, I mix using the second chart. I have successfully nursed really sickly plants back to health using peroxide. I am a firm believer in this stuff. Be careful when mixing. Make sure you know the percentage and mix accordingly. Most of the ones sold in stores are 3%.


Non-organic disease and pest management:

I won’t spend too much time on discussing how most non-organic methods work. Because it is pretty obvious that most of them are synthetic based chemicals that pretty much achieve the same result as the organic methods. Synthetics usually have longer residuals and are often times more effective because of it. I certainly don’t judge anyone for using non-organic methods. I use them occasionally as a last resort if organic methods are not enough. But I try to avoid them as much as possible.

Fungicides:
Daconil
Mancozeb

Insecticides:
Bonide Eight (permethrin)
Sevin dust

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