good_2_geaux

FORTIFIDE allows three underlayment options either A) tape the seams of the plywood sheathing and then apply an approved underlayment on top B) ice and water the whole roof or C) apply two (2) layers of approved underlayment

Contractors worth their weight are going to ice / water valleys, penetrations and eaves either way.

If you are using the $10K grant money from the state (Louisiana) you may be limited on which option you can choose. Ask the contractor. It seems like I remember the state was trying to simplify the process / reduce options on their end but I could be wrong.

I have a FORTIFIDE roof and chose to go full ice/water BUT I had the contractor add a layer of synthetic felt on top to act as a vapor barrier. Reason for this was A) the shingle manufacturer recommended it and B) it will make things smoother when this roof needs to be changed out.

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Dear Momma Frey,
Duck hunting Louisiana is a waste of time and money. We do it because we ain’t got no other option.
Sincerely,
Poor Coonass

Where are you located? I’ll help you do it.

I have the ryobi 40v blower, weedeater, edging attachment and hedge attachment along with two batteries. They have been great for the past six years.

Tip; register each item online. I had to use their warranty on a battery and because I had registered it, the process was smooth. They mailed me a new one.

Also, my string trimmer head fell apart just from so much use/abrasion. I bought an Echo speed feed 400 head and swapped out the ryobi oem. That upgrade alone brought the trimmer up a tier.

if you have two p traps along the same run of pipe, it may be forming a vacuum. One needs to be removed. I’ve seen this happen before.

Whenever researching the topic, refer to the weed as “burweed” and you will find more answers.

Here is an LSUAg article [link=(LSU Ag Burweed )]https://www.lsuagcenter.com/topics/lawn_garden/commercial_horticulture/turfgrass/turfgrass-weeds/broadleaf-weeds/lawn-burweed[/link]

In summary, three step process:
A) keep your turf grass healthy ie. water, cut at correct height, fungicide, and fertilize. (If you have St. Aug. you are probably cutting it too short)

B) apply pre-emergent in fall and early spring. Prevents the weed seeds from germinating. Once you see the weeds, it’s too late for that year to fully control. Linked article has chemical options

C) post emergent. Kills existing weeds. Only killing “this years weeds”, still need a plan in place to prevent. A good chemical I’ve found is 2-4D, can be found at a local hardware store marketed as “fertilome weed free zone”. See linked article for other options

I believe the lack of grass is more of a water level control situation than a herbicide issue.
A lot of camp owners complain about the grass affecting the ability to drive their $90K tritoons to their boat docks. Like everything else in life, it’s a trade off. The grass is good for the fish but chokes up launches and makes accessing shallow water areas difficult.

any variety recommendations for a good popper jalapeños? Looking to add two plants.

Highly suggest adding a rhizome barrier. It was a game changer for me, eliminated them spreading into my yard from the neighbors.