re: How important do you consider the ball you play as a mid-handicap?

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I’m the only one talking common sense unlike all of you telling double digit handicappers

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Buying cheaper balls to save money is one thing.

But even with double digit players, chipping around the green and putting there can be a huge difference in feel and performance with certain balls.

It really depends on individual players and where they lose the shots.

All things considered, the Maxfli Tour is a great bet to meet all of the criteria.

I’m not naive to how golf balls work. The point I’ve made 1000 times on this board and the hill I will die on is that for most people the impact is negligible and good balls can actually hurt them on poor shots. Let’s take your moderately skilled player with a high swing speed as our example.

Just to make it simple let’s say a well struck drive for him goes 300yds with “the right golf ball”. Let’s say he’s playing a course that is 6300yds (avg 350/hole). If he plays “the wrong ball” maybe he loses 10yds on a pure shot, so it’s going 290 instead of 300, that’s not making much difference on the majority of the holes he’s going to play.

Now let’s look at short game and spin, a perfectly hit wedge with “the right ball” might hit and stick or come back some while “the wrong ball” might roll out 5-10ft, assuming he’s not an idiot he knows this and simply attempts to hit his shot 10ft shorter, very rarely are municipal courses forcing you to rip back a wedge to hold a green. Same basic idea applies chipping.

Now let’s look at the non perfect shots, depending on what “wrong golf ball” he’s playing, he could actually benefit on his bad shots (they might spin less, fly shorter and stay away from trouble, etc…). Based on my own experience and seeing others, he’s as likely to benefit from a worse ball than a good ball on bad shots. Poor wedge? Might get more lucky on the roll out. Hard sliced drive? That poor compression may keep it straighter and shorter out of trouble. Pulled iron long? Less hook and not quite as far

You guys all look at spin rate and average carry on good shots and forget most golfers don’t hit good shots every time. And my point is that while there may be a little advantage on a well struck shot, the majority of golfers aren’t hitting well struck shots that often and a worse ball can actually benefit them in those cases.

ESPECIALLY if they are taking your advice and buying a mid-level ball and not a proV1, chrome tour, TP5X level ball.

No I’m saying a good ball can hurt you as bad as help you and a bad ball can help you as much as hurt you.

The point I’m making is that if you aren’t that good, the ball you play does not have much of an impact on your score.

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The point I’m making is that if you aren’t that good, the ball you play does not have much of an impact on your score.

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I don't see how this is even controversial. The biggest variable for the vast majority of golfers is the golfer, specifically their swing. Sure a high quality ball makes a difference in distance or control if you have a consistent and repeatable swing. But most golfers don't have that. And just because you made a ball spin once in fifty chips doesn't mean that's a great ball for you. But that's how a lot of golfers make decisions.

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Just to make it simple let’s say a well struck drive for him goes 300yds with “the right golf ball”. Let’s say he’s playing a course that is 6300yds (avg 350/hole). If he plays “the wrong ball” maybe he loses 10yds on a pure shot, so it’s going 290 instead of 300, that’s not making much difference on the majority of the holes he’s going to play.

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Sure, but there are a few long par 4's at my club. I'm normally a 265ish drive and now in the 285ish range. It's the difference between a 6/7 iron into the green compared to a 8/9 iron and it's a decent improvement in chance for GIR for me.

3 of the par 5's are on the shorter end and now a hybrid get's me around the green compared to a 3-wood or laying up.

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Now let’s look at short game and spin, a perfectly hit wedge with “the right ball” might hit and stick or come back some while “the wrong ball” might roll out 5-10ft, assuming he’s not an idiot he knows this and simply attempts to hit his shot 10ft shorter, very rarely are municipal courses forcing you to rip back a wedge to hold a green. Same basic idea applies chipping.

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I don't have the wedge or scoring iron control to care about 5-10' in my approach shot. But I do see a benefit on short-sided chips or 20 yd pitch shots over a bunker or something. Greens complexes at my club can get a bit challenging, at least for where I find myself normally missing.

I fully recognize I'm not consistent enough just yet to say this will make me a better golfer every round. However, I do possibly see benefit on those good days where I can save par or get that occasional birdie here or there because everything lined up and my cheap ball probably would have left me with a 20 yard longer approach or rolled out for a 5-7' longer putt.

I was playing 3 times a week and made a lot of progress fast and thought I'd have broken into the 10 or under handicap range by now. Then work and life hit, I didn't play for a month and only get out once a week and have stalled. I bought these months ago when I was on a good trajectory, so it's not like I'm trying to justify going make a purchase. They've just been sitting on the shelf. Decided to just use them and I would say for that particular day, it made a big difference. I think for the most part, it'll be a decision made with how I'm feeling on the range before the round. If things are feeling right, I might pull them out. Not because I expect them to make everything better, but to possibly give me a better chance on those 5 or 6 shots per round where I could use that bit of difference.

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You honestly don’t think it matters around the green? Nitro vs ProV1x?

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I know what you are saying, BUT learned how to play golf 50 years ago with hand-me-down, off-the-shelf Spaulding irons and persimmon woods.
Played a Top Flight golf ball, because there were not a lot of affordable options, and I was a beginner.
Went from a first timer to a 10 handicap in 2 years.
MAYBE I would have even better scores with a a softer ball but It's still all about making the shot with a good swing.
IMO, the ball only matters at a certain level – players that can create spin (low handicap players).
Currently a 9.1 and play Maxfli Tour X balls.

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playing the same ball consistently is critically important.

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It’s quotes like this, this right here, that drive me insane. I’m going over the top of my opinion in this thread, I understand the ball DOES make a difference, I myself play the same ball consistently unless I’m just sucking that day or messing around.

HOWEVER saying that a 12 handicap playing the same ball all the time is CRITICALLY important is ridiculous.

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I can hit a pro-v1/maxfli tour type of ball a good 15+ yards farther than a callaway supersoft. The ball absolutely matters.

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Sounds like you have a decent swing speed then! Us old folks need a softer ball I believe. I've been playing a kirkland urethane 3 piece ball. I'm about to test a Taylor Made SpeedSoft ball this afternoon to see if I can hit it any longer.

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I’m the only one talking common sense unlike all of you telling double digit handicappers they should buy premium balls so they can donate 6 to the course every round. If you aren’t near breaking 80 there are dozens of things you should worry about before you worry about playing a premium ball.

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There is so much room and common sense between "play a premium ball" and "the ball you play doesn't matter that much" it's absurd but it's not an opinion, but a proven scientific fact that the ball does matter, it does impact flight, spin and distance for low and mid handicappers.

But that being said, the ball someone plays should be based more on swing speed, not handicap. I am not going to suggest a Chrome Tour X (new or used) for a 16 handicap with a driver swing speed of 85 but I might for a 16 handicap with a swing speed of 104.