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TulaneLSU
TBD Fan
Member since Aug 2003
Member since Dec 2007
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TulaneLSU's Meridian Dog's tour of Malbis, Magnolia Springs, and Bon Secour, AL
Dear Friends,

For many of us, if we died today very few people on Tigerdroppings would realize it. I was thinking about this grave reality, especially over the last few weeks when I had a real fear that one of the pillars of the Food Board, Meridian Dog, might have succumbed to the virus. Most of us, over the years, have delighted in reading his many recipes and consuming the beautiful pictures he has taken along the way. His threads always build and build before finally coming to the climatic Meridian Dog fork view. The format and technique are truly wonderful, and that fork view should be trademarked.

Thankfully, Meridian Dog is still with us. But the last few weeks were quite scary for me as well as for Mother. We prayed daily for his health, but we feared the worst. A couple of months ago, he suggested that we take a tour of Baldwin County. Keep in mind Mother is quite smitten with this area of the country, so much so that she purchased a large estate not far from Elberta. Although we have not moved there yet, it is a distinct possibility that we will spend more time there than in New Orleans. If cgrand and Upperdeck’s stock tips continue as they are, though, we may just have enough to buy back our Prytania homestead, if the sellers are willing.

I was preparing a tribute to Meridian Dog in the shape of a tour along Highway 181, starting in Malbis and ending in Bon Secour. Although not far from Elberta or Fairhope, detailed earlier, this area is quite distinct and haunting. I am grateful to MD for suggesting this route for us, and I hope in this hour of convalescence some of the photos will bring good cheer and memories to him, a reminder that the world awaits him when the stormy waters of his life are stilled and he finds a safe harbor in the calm.

Our journey starts just off the interstate, where we were met by Thomas Hospital, surely one of the only hospitals in the U.S. with Coptic domes. It is a nod to the nearby Malbis Memorial Church, a Greek Orthodox community that MD suggested we tour. Unfortunately, even though the sign said open to the public Tuesday through Saturday 10-4, the locks were engaged and there was no one to allow us entry. We still marveled at the beauty of the exterior.

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I have always appreciated the circular architecture of the Eastern Church, which I believe reflects the way the Eastern Church has seen the nature of the Trinity, an infinite circular relationship of love, or perichoresis as the Cappadocian Fathers formulated. It provides a much more beautiful image of the relationship between the three Godheads than the Western Church, which seems to be far more triangular and, thus, hierarchical. While it may provide a simpler church polity, theologically, that hierarchical model is found wanting.

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The O W N on the bars of the cross above Christ’s head come from the Greek verb meaning “to be,” a reminder that Jesus is the same God who is YHWH, or I AM. Although it was more than a thousand years after Christ died before this title appeared in religious art, its use is profound and reminds us to pause to explore the depth of religious art. Each jot and tittle and letter in such art has great power. Rather than dwell on these eternal things, many would rather listen to the radio and play video games.

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Mother, being a strict Calvinist, took umbrage when she saw Theotokos. “It should read, ‘Christotokos. Mary is not the Mother of God.”

“Mother,” I replied, “that reeks of Arianism. If Jesus is God and Mary gave birth to Jesus, then we are theologically sound saying that Mary is the Mother of God. Neither the Eastern nor the Western Church Fathers would argue that Mary was there in the beginning and gave birth to the Trinity, but Mary certainly gave birth to the Christ child, who is the Word now and was the Word in the very beginning.”

Mother hushed me while patting me on the head. “You’ve always given off shades of Papism, just like your Grandmother.”

I let the argument pass. We have had hours of debate on Theotokos, and I worry that, in her fear of Marian veneration, she wades into dangerous heresies, and that is far more dangerous and scary to me than any virus, for when one thinks incorrectly on matters of faith, nothing else matters.

We continued south, following MD’s directions. We came across several places MD did not share, probably because he wanted us to revel in the surprise. First was Punk’s Place, a house in the middle of no where turned into a never ending garage sale. Mother wanted to leave as soon as we saw that it was second hand junk.

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Then we came to Bill-E’s, which billed itself a restaurant and grocery. After walking around for five minutes, we concluded that there was no grocery and left very disappointed, as we love shopping local groceries.

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Just beyond Bill-E’s we made an MD approved detour to Walmart. It was a most handsome Walmart, far nicer than the ones we have in New Orleans.

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Another unexpected stop was Battleship Marine, which was in an older man’s house. He is an ardent Alabama fan, and will tell you as much. Though we did not make a purchase, we were quite entertained by shopping in someone’s house while hearing his dryer running.

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This post was edited on 1/21 at 8:24 pm


TulaneLSU
TBD Fan
Member since Aug 2003
Member since Dec 2007
12497 posts

re: TulaneLSU's Meridian Dog's tour of Malbis, Magnolia Springs, and Bon Secour, AL
Meridian Dog’s insistence that we take a hike to see Weeks Bay was appreciated. When we used the internet to look for hours, we were dismayed that the State Park was closed. Once we arrived, though, the park ranger allowed us to explore two of the paths. The elevated path, though, was closed, due to damage from Hurricane Sally, which one resident told us was every bit as bad as Hurricane Ivan was for the area.

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We had not made a hike in several weeks, so being out in nature was lovely. It was only about a five minute walk to Weeks Bay, where only a small platform remained. The rest of the boardwalk washed away in Sally’s surge.

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MD also gave us the recommendation to find the remains of what was thought to be the largest live oak in Alabama. This effort took us a little time. We got lost on Fish River Road. We came across a nice group of men who worked for the Alabama Parks Department, and they led us to the park where Inspiration Oak was.

These generous and kind men told us the story of the Inspiration Oak: that about twenty five years ago or so, a property dispute arose between the state and a local landowner. The state took the land somehow. Not long after, Inspiration Oak’s bark was scarred all the way around by a chainsaw’s teeth. The oak did not die then and there, as the state rallied the public to help save it. Donations and letters came in from all over the world. But ultimately, the tree died and the state had to cut it down in 2003. It was then that researchers were able to age the tree, and it turned out it was only 90 years old! Truly, that gives hope to anyone planting a live oak, that with good conditions and a good seed, you may in your own lifetime see a seedling grow to majesty.

After they showed us the tree’s stump, we offered to take them to Jesse’s for lunch, but they all politely declined. I wish they had joined us.

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Even though I warned Mother that I was quite hungry, Mother refused to stop at Boggy’s Buffet, across from the park. She was ready for something a little more refined.

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We took note of all the downed pecan trees in the area. Some pecan orchards had enormous piles of trees, twice the size of a large house just waiting to be burned or removed.

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We then arrived in a town I had never heard of: Magnolia Springs. This is home to Jesse’s a restaurant that MD favors and recommended to us, so we knew it would be good.

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God’s favor surely shined on us, for the St. Paul’s Episcopal Church’s chapel was open that day, welcoming sojourners for a time of prayer and quiet. It was a perfect rest for us, and we opened the BoCP and held a prayer for thanksgiving, for safe travel, health, the good Earth, and for our impending meal. The Carpenter Gothic church is picturesque, a postcard of Southern hamlet living.

We crossed the seat and were seated at Jesse’s in the front room, a rather unlikeable place that reminded me of an old woman’s cheap parlor room. As we left, I saw the backroom and wished we had eaten in it, for it was airy and refreshing.

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Mother chose the steak for lunch. I do not know why; the pricing for steaks is the same at lunch as it is at dinner, and it was quite high. I noticed that the lunch shrimp and grits was $4 cheaper than the dinner serving, so I got it, but not before I got the fried green tomato appetizer. We were in Baldwin County, home of some of America’s best tomatoes.

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The tomato appetizer was far too rich. I think a simple cream would have sustained the dish better than the many ingredients that ultimately did not compliment the tomatoes. In this case, less would have been more. The shrimp and grits dish was excellent. I was expecting a Gulf Coast shrimp and grits dish -- creamy grits and grills shrimp -- but this dish was much closer to New Orleans BBQ shrimp atop grits.

Now some people gasped when I wrote that I did not have shrimp and grits in New Orleans until several years ago. There was some sort of assumption that shrimp and grits is a classic New Orleans dish. But that is hogwash. I cannot find mention anywhere in New Orleans of that dish before 1995, the year after the movie Forrest Gump popularized the dish in much of America. Shrimp and grits is not a New Orleans dish, let me be very clear about that fact. Grits in general are not New Orleans either. Our starch was either rice or potatoes. It was never grits.

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We crossed the scenic Magnolia River and no sooner did we find some fascinating ruined home art, still in keeping with Christmas, although Epiphany has already come, so decorations should be in your storage units.

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We then arrived in Bon Secour, French for good harbor. What was most noteworthy about this small shrimping and oystering town was that it has a lot of two of my favorites types of buildings: churches and seafood markets. I had never visited Bon Secour until this trip. Anyone making the trip to Gulf Shores or Orange Beach should certainly make the detour -- it is only 10-15 minutes out of the way and is a beautiful village.

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This post was edited on 1/21 at 8:42 pm


TulaneLSU
TBD Fan
Member since Aug 2003
Member since Dec 2007
12497 posts

re: TulaneLSU's Meridian Dog's tour of Malbis, Magnolia Springs, and Bon Secour, AL
There were some other buildings and scenes of interest beside the churches. One was the Swift Coles Home, which is only open for tours Tuesday and Friday between 10 and 3.

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Most people know Bon Secour for its seafood, and it is a seafood laden place, with three excellent seafood markets: Bon Secour Fisheries, Billy’s (MD’s favorite), and Aquila’s.

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We struck out on Navy Cove oysters at Bon Secour Fisheries, as the last batch had just sold before we arrived ($80 for 100 count), so we traveled down the road to Billy’s. We loved the greeting on the painted fuel tank.

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Billy’s did not have Navy Cove either, informing us that those are some very scarce oysters. So we went to Aquila’s. I assumed it was named for Priscilla’s husband. What a combo they were, the first married missionary couple in all of Christianity! But Aquila only had Texas oysters. It seems Texas oysters have flooded the market. First they stole our ducks and now our oysters?

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Dismayed, we did one final internet search and found the most unlikely of places carried Navy Cove oysters: OWA! As many of you recall, I had quite the time in OWA, although I did get sick several times riding the rides. There is apparently a restaurant there with the rather pejorative name, Sassybass. It is a local chain of restaurants. As with other restaurants at OWA, I do not see how any of them survive. They are always empty.

Anyway, we made our way to OWA and we each got a dozen Navy Cove oysters. They were quite good and salty. They were also quite expensive -- $26/dozen raw, and with the ridiculous 13% tax there, $30 a dozen. I do not mind paying a premium for good oysters, but Sassybass does not have an oyster shucker in house. Instead they use a mechanical shucker which makes an awful, screeching noise. The machine also leaves quite a bit of shell pieces in the oyster and fails to detach the oyster’s adductor muscle from its shell, leaving the eater to do the work. I would not mind these deficiencies in a $6 dozen, but at $30, the oysters should be professionally cleaned. I hope our oyster farmer is aware that amateurs are not treating his oysters with the respect they deserve.

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On the way back, we stopped at Old Time Pottery because I had some vague memory that MD liked shopping there, but I could be wrong. We also saw quite an interesting bumper sticker near my least favorite gas station. And then we returned. I hope that Meridian Dog might get some pleasure and a smile from these pictures, and that his convalescence is nearing a completion. A hearty thank you, Meridian Dog, for suggesting this most interesting of drives. Mother sends her thanks, too.

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Faith, Hope, and Love,
TulaneLSU
This post was edited on 1/21 at 7:02 pm


t00f
Tulane Fan
Eating with a mask in the zone
Member since Jul 2016
46294 posts

re: TulaneLSU's Meridian Dog's tour of Malbis, Magnolia Springs, and Bon Secour, AL
L


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73
Mo Jeaux
LSU Fan
NYC
Member since Aug 2008
44336 posts

re: TulaneLSU's Meridian Dog's tour of Malbis, Magnolia Springs, and Bon Secour, AL
I actually really enjoyed this thread.

Hope MD is doing well.


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175
tilco
Auburn Fan
Spanish Fort, AL
Member since Nov 2013
11704 posts

re: TulaneLSU's Meridian Dog's tour of Malbis, Magnolia Springs, and Bon Secour, AL
Glad you enjoyed your day in Baldwin County. I too have never been impressed by Bill-ees or “Old 27 Grill” as it used to be called.

Jesses is a fantastic little spot that is much more enjoyable to me for dinner.


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52
TigerBait2008
New Orleans Saints Fan
Boulder,CO
Member since Jun 2008
30792 posts

re: TulaneLSU's Meridian Dog's tour of Malbis, Magnolia Springs, and Bon Secour, AL
quote:

died today




Please do


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1231
ynlvr
LSU Fan
Gulf Coast
Member since Feb 2009
3745 posts
 Online 

re: TulaneLSU's Meridian Dog's tour of Malbis, Magnolia Springs, and Bon Secour, AL
Magnolia Springs holds a place in my heart. Beautiful live oak lined streets and mailboxes on the water. Jesse’s has served us well there on our visits.


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32
SloaneRanger
LSU Fan
Upper Hurstville
Member since Jan 2014
3052 posts

re: TulaneLSU's Meridian Dog's tour of Malbis, Magnolia Springs, and Bon Secour, AL
Jesse's in Magnolia Springs is the real deal.


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31
CHEDBALLZ
LSU Fan
South Central LA
Member since Dec 2009
19026 posts

re: TulaneLSU's Meridian Dog's tour of Malbis, Magnolia Springs, and Bon Secour, AL
I read and all that bull shite to realize you dont like Buccees.....


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TulaneLSU
TBD Fan
Member since Aug 2003
Member since Dec 2007
12497 posts

re: TulaneLSU's Meridian Dog's tour of Malbis, Magnolia Springs, and Bon Secour, AL
Friend,

That is not the half of it. TulaneLSU’s Top 10 things I cannot stand about Buc-ee’s.

Yours,
TulaneLSU


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711
drake20
New Orleans Saints Fan
Baton Rouge
Member since Oct 2005
12455 posts

re: TulaneLSU's Meridian Dog's tour of Malbis, Magnolia Springs, and Bon Secour, AL
Loved the post.


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33
MeridianDog
Mississippi St. Fan
Home on the range
Member since Nov 2010
11784 posts

re: TulaneLSU's Meridian Dog's tour of Malbis, Magnolia Springs, and Bon Secour, AL
Thanks so much Tulane. Your post was full of disappointing things though.

I hate that you were not able to go into the Malbis Memorial Church. We have stopped there several times, and have always been touched.

The storm damage down the drive was sobering, wasn't it! There is always some, but I guess I wasn't prepared for the level you showed. Those are resilient folks though and the damage will be cleaned up.

I know they have suffered, but the Pitcher Bog really got hit. The plants are rare and seeing them is a rare treat.

Hate that you had so much trouble finding your oysters. I have never purchased any of them and likely won't at $30 a dozen.

Old Time Pottery is a decent place to buy a cheap shrimp boil pot. You probably didn't need one though.

Was the pecan orchard you showed the one that is for sale (just after turning onto H-98?

Thanks for the post. It was enjoyable.


OTIS2
LSU Fan
NoLA
Member since Jul 2008
45794 posts

re: TulaneLSU's Meridian Dog's tour of Malbis, Magnolia Springs, and Bon Secour, AL
Navy Cove oysters shipped out of Bon Secour Seafood are excellent and a great buy.


MeridianDog
Mississippi St. Fan
Home on the range
Member since Nov 2010
11784 posts

re: TulaneLSU's Meridian Dog's tour of Malbis, Magnolia Springs, and Bon Secour, AL
There is a chance I have had them and did not know it. Wouldn't be unusual for me to just buy and eat oysters without asking, and we have had so many over the years.


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31
lsumailman61
LSU Fan
Gulf Shores
Member since Oct 2006
6623 posts

re: TulaneLSU's Meridian Dog's tour of Malbis, Magnolia Springs, and Bon Secour, AL
TulaneLSU you should have thrown a bat signal. I delivered a fresh batch of Navy Coves to Bon Secour fisheries this afternoon. As for pricing, I have no control of what the restaurants do after they get them from the wholesaler. I will pass along your sentiments to the OWA crew. Also, OWA is 13% sales tax. Ft Morgan is 7% and Gulf Shores 10%. Better planning and I would have shucked you a dozen for free on the tailgate of my truck.


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172
SixthAndBarone
Tampa Bay Rays Fan
Member since Jan 2019
1080 posts

re: TulaneLSU's Meridian Dog's tour of Malbis, Magnolia Springs, and Bon Secour, AL
Probably your best post. Interesting to see other cities. You gotta love a city whose greatest accomplishment is potlucks.


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Midget Death Squad
Notre Dame Fan
Meme Magic
Member since Oct 2008
17935 posts

re: TulaneLSU's Meridian Dog's tour of Malbis, Magnolia Springs, and Bon Secour, AL


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20
Twenty 49
LSU Fan
Shreveport
Member since Jun 2014
14106 posts

re: TulaneLSU's Meridian Dog's tour of Malbis, Magnolia Springs, and Bon Secour, AL
quote:

they use a mechanical shucker which makes an awful, screeching noise.


I had no idea such existed. I've seen the contraptions that give a human shucker leverage, but apparently the Nemco Proshucker electric-powered product claims to shuck about a dozen a minute.

The sales site's lack of a video of it in action makes me skeptical.


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GreenRockTiger
LSU Fan
Member since Jun 2020
3763 posts

re: TulaneLSU's Meridian Dog's tour of Malbis, Magnolia Springs, and Bon Secour, AL
Great post - I, too, love Baldwin County, AL.

We’ve gone twice in the last few months, and are thinking of going again soon.

Your love for WalMart is not very New Orleanian, though.

And when you have toddlers and kids in diapers - Buc-ee’s is a god send. Mine are all out of diapers now but we’ve always traveled, and clean places can be scarce.


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