re: New Custom Build What Caliber Rifle?

Northland Shooters Supply is a good company. I bought a Shilen barrel in 20 Practical (223 Rem necked down to 20 caliber) from them a few years ago. I was converting a 221 Fireball to 20 Practical. They were very informative, reasonably priced and got the barrel to me fast. I'll use them again.

quote:

---

.375

---

If a .375 caliber round is what you're after couldn't you rebarrel your 30-06 in .376 Steyr?
The thing is, Hornady is the only one that makes rounds for it so you would have to order them online.
It only comes in 225 and 270 grain so if you don't reload that's it, but it's .375 and fits in a standard length action.

.376 Steyr

quote:

---

Introduced in 1999, it is based on the 9.3×64mm Brenneke case, necked up to accept a 0.375-inch (9.5 mm) diameter bullet. The case is also shortened by about 4 mm to fit a standard length rifle action.

An additional motivation for development of the new cartridge was that authorities in certain areas of the world dictate a minimum caliber of round which may be used in hunting dangerous game such as cape buffalo and lion. In general the minimum is either .366 or .375 caliber, so to make the cartridge accepted in almost all African countries, the newly designed cartridge uses a 375 caliber bore.

---

Here's what I've got so far for my inexpensive all weather 30-06 build:

1996 Remington 700 ADL Synthetic 30-06

Removed original plastic stock and placed it in a Stocky's LRC Sporter Accublock (blem). I still need to do some more work on free-floating the barrel.

Removed factory trigger and put in a Timney Elite thin shoe. (This was my first time replacing a trigger-note to others-don't go too far on knocking out the bolt stop pin or you'll spend half an hour looking for the spring when it bounces onto the floor and another half an hour trying to figure out how to get everything back together).

Installed Magpul DBM bottom metal (polymer). It took some filing on the stock and the Magpul component, but it's in. I may do a little more adjusting on it.

I have some Warne bases and rings to install and a Burris Fullfield E1 to put on top. I also ordered some correct plug screws for the front and rear sight screw holes.

After that, off to the range to see how it shoots. If it's within 1.5 MOA, I'll bed the lug, then shoot it again. If it's within 1 MOA, I'm not going to mess with it, and will probably send it out to be Cerakoted. I'm thinking Midnight Bronze, FDE or Austrian Brown (or something similar) for the barrel, action and bottom metal, and Kryptek Highlander for the stock. This may all change when I wake up tomorrow, though.

It’s heavy and the recoil pad is stiff as a board. It was marketed for $99 as a first run and just needing some channel work, but it also had a scratch on the butt and some places in the mag well inlet where the polymer separated from the bedding block.

That said, it seems to be solid as a rock and the fit is OK, but the tang doesn't seem to cover the aluminum underneath it. Not a big deal to me because it seems to fit flush enough.

If I wasn't attempting an inexpensive build, I would have sprung for at least a B&C.

quote:

---

A lot

---

I venture to say on the far end of the spectrum from my budget build. Way far.

300 norma

A Vanguard in like you bought a complete rifle or a barreled action? I didn't think they did just barreled actions.

I have a MarkV featherweight that is in 270Win which is a great rifle. Some of their Vanguard setups, BackCountry, Meateater, Firstlite are tempting.

I have heard a lot of mixed reviews on the Vanguards though, especially guys who try and hand load for them.

Which Vanguard did you go with? It grouping good? Is it real picky on ammo?

Sorry for all the question.

I may just get a Vanguard and get the AI-06 built instead.