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Started By
Message
Posted on 3/27/16 at 1:01 pm to jdavid1
quote:
Next up I want to start on a sbr 9mm build.
Can't wait till I'm out of school and have money
Posted on 3/27/16 at 1:42 pm to jdavid1
Scorpion. I've put 1000+ rounds through mine in 2 months. Was hitting steel at 100yds with no problem
Posted on 3/27/16 at 4:50 pm to ChatRabbit77
Look back at my pic of my new AR. I think it's a few pages back. Which sight do I need to turn around? I'm assuming the back one..
Posted on 3/27/16 at 4:56 pm to MSG
Refer to Northern below. His drawing is correct
This post was edited on 3/27/16 at 6:14 pm
Posted on 3/27/16 at 5:38 pm to MSG
Both. The flat sides should face the shooter when popped up.
ETA: Rudimentary sketch below:
___L__________L___= ~
ETA: Rudimentary sketch below:
___L__________L___= ~
This post was edited on 3/28/16 at 7:49 am
Posted on 3/27/16 at 6:34 pm to northern
Got it. And while we are at it, what do all the numbers on top of my hand guard mean? And are the spots my sights mounted on correct?
Posted on 3/27/16 at 8:10 pm to MSG
The numbers are simply indexes to keep track of where you put something if you were to move it or take it off.
The spots look fine. You ideally want the longest sight radius for accuracy. So as far forward and back as you can. Personal preferences or assesories (optics in particular) may make you change the mounting points.
The spots look fine. You ideally want the longest sight radius for accuracy. So as far forward and back as you can. Personal preferences or assesories (optics in particular) may make you change the mounting points.
Posted on 3/27/16 at 8:18 pm to MSG
Here's a picture of my old rifle with the Magpul MBUS.
New rifle with fixed Troy sights
New rifle with fixed Troy sights
This post was edited on 3/27/16 at 8:19 pm
Posted on 3/30/16 at 11:36 am to northern
Anybody know of any place that has the QC10 lowers in stock around the northshore area?
Posted on 3/30/16 at 12:42 pm to jdavid1
quote:
Anybody have opinions on the two?
I have CMMG Mk9 SBR. I have a 4.5" CMMG barrel and it isn't very reliable at the moment. If I shoot three mags through it by the third mag the bolt won't go far enough back to reset the hammer. I have a Spikes 9mm buffer and Wolf Spring on the way.
I also have a scorpion that I have SBR's. If I had to choose between the two it would be scorpion all the way. Their are a good bit of aftermarket stuff for it. The best mod you can do is get the reduced trigger spring. It takes less than 10 minutes to install and reduces the trigger pull from 8-9 lb s down to about 4-5lbs.
Posted on 3/30/16 at 1:55 pm to 03GeeTee
Nice Arsenal. It makes me want to buy a triangle to go with the solid stock.
Posted on 3/31/16 at 10:57 pm to Ice Cream Sammich
Me and Civiltiger put together my SBR this evening, it's a 300blk with a 8.5" noveske barrel.
I like how it turned out but I have one question... there seems to be some play between the upper and the lower. My other build is rock solid, there is no play whatsoever. What could be causing this, the pivot/takedown pins? My other ARs pens are in so tight you need something to push them out with.
Build List
Wilson billet upper/lower in OD
Noveske 8.5" 300 blk barrel
Geissle SSA-E
Wilson NP3 BIG
JP Silent Capture Spring
DD enhanced buttstock
JP rapid configuration guard
Omega can
Steiner 1-4
I like how it turned out but I have one question... there seems to be some play between the upper and the lower. My other build is rock solid, there is no play whatsoever. What could be causing this, the pivot/takedown pins? My other ARs pens are in so tight you need something to push them out with.
Build List
Wilson billet upper/lower in OD
Noveske 8.5" 300 blk barrel
Geissle SSA-E
Wilson NP3 BIG
JP Silent Capture Spring
DD enhanced buttstock
JP rapid configuration guard
Omega can
Steiner 1-4
This post was edited on 3/31/16 at 11:01 pm
Posted on 3/31/16 at 11:54 pm to DownSouthDave
Rear shelf in the lower isn't a tight fit to the boss in the upper or could be the holes are on the high side of the tolerance. You can live with it or look at any of those products that are supposed to help with that play. Acuwedge. Oring under the front boss. Cleaning lower with acetone and putting silicone in the rear shelf to put pressure on the rear boss. Lots of ways to tighten them up. I say just live with it. Nice thing about building 80% lowers is you can get the lower matched perfectly to your upper when you machine it so you never have to worry about wobble.
Posted on 3/31/16 at 11:59 pm to DeoreDX
That upper and lower were expensive as shite, I don't want any play!
Thanks for the suggestions, I'll have to look into it more.
Thanks for the suggestions, I'll have to look into it more.
Posted on 4/1/16 at 12:03 am to DownSouthDave
Prop and Carson will probably chime in and have a fix. Anyways, yeah, Wilson billet is expensive as hell and I would be mad too. What I would suggest as a temporary fix is accu-wedge. Also, call Wilson if you don't find any solutions here.
This post was edited on 4/1/16 at 12:24 am
Posted on 4/1/16 at 1:09 am to DownSouthDave
The only receivers I've ever used that had no wobble is my Mega billet set, but they have a tensioning screw built in that eliminates it. The little bit of play between receivers is fairly normal from what I know, but if you want to eliminate it DeoreDX covered the methods I know of. Outside of buying a tensioning screw and tapping your lower, which I wouldn't advise on that crazy expensive receiver.
Posted on 4/1/16 at 7:39 am to DownSouthDave
Play between the two is normal, nothing to be concerned about. If you are concerned send them back. Just be prepared when they tell they are within spec.
Can get an accuwedge or silicon like stated above. I think they sell a knockoff accuwedge at academy.
Can get an accuwedge or silicon like stated above. I think they sell a knockoff accuwedge at academy.
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