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| Favorite team: | LSU  |
| Location: | Baton Rouge |
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| Number of Posts: | 7558 |
| Registered on: | 9/28/2009 |
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re: 27ft Ocean Master - Project Boat
Posted by CP3 on 3/24/26 at 5:03 pm to SilverPoon985
As someone who has rebuilt several boats from hull up:
1) make sure hull/transom/stringers are solid. ESPECIALLY if wood in any of those areas. If rotten wood, I’d honestly walk away from the boat. That opens you up to ALOT of work
2) Fuel tanks. Very small chance tanks are in good shape if they are original (poly or aluminum). I would go in assuming you need to replace them and all fuel lines. Not super familiar with ocean master, but that will likely entail glasswork as well since you typically have to cut deck out to pull tanks.
3) Fiberglass work is NOT cheap. You would think just getting small chips and cracks fixed isnt expensive, but it adds up quick (unless you can do it yourself)
4) You will save a ton of money of you are able to do all the wiring yourself. This really applies to any of the work needed.
5) McMaster Carr website is great for
for 316Ss fasteners, fittings, etc.
Other than that good luck, and definitely post PICTs as you do it. I love following along on rebuild threads.
1) make sure hull/transom/stringers are solid. ESPECIALLY if wood in any of those areas. If rotten wood, I’d honestly walk away from the boat. That opens you up to ALOT of work
2) Fuel tanks. Very small chance tanks are in good shape if they are original (poly or aluminum). I would go in assuming you need to replace them and all fuel lines. Not super familiar with ocean master, but that will likely entail glasswork as well since you typically have to cut deck out to pull tanks.
3) Fiberglass work is NOT cheap. You would think just getting small chips and cracks fixed isnt expensive, but it adds up quick (unless you can do it yourself)
4) You will save a ton of money of you are able to do all the wiring yourself. This really applies to any of the work needed.
5) McMaster Carr website is great for
for 316Ss fasteners, fittings, etc.
Other than that good luck, and definitely post PICTs as you do it. I love following along on rebuild threads.
2
re: Boats - SiriusXM Weather or Starlink?
Posted by CP3 on 3/17/26 at 4:28 pm to TopWaterTiger
I’ve always had XM in the past, but if I was to do it today I would just get starlink instead.
The only thing XM gives you that starlink doesn’t is the weather overlay on your garmin mapping (plus the random other layers you can overlay with XM info). Unless you can do that over WiFi now.
But with starlink you could just use weather apps and Spotify (or really any other streaming service - including XM) from your phone.
My vote is starlink
The only thing XM gives you that starlink doesn’t is the weather overlay on your garmin mapping (plus the random other layers you can overlay with XM info). Unless you can do that over WiFi now.
But with starlink you could just use weather apps and Spotify (or really any other streaming service - including XM) from your phone.
My vote is starlink
I can’t tell you the last time I have used PLA. I have about 40 spools of PETG,
a handful of ASA and TPU, and maybe one old roll of PLA I forgot about somewhere.
Honestly I just seem to get way better print results using PETG. Plus it just seems all around better to me for what I tend to print.
a handful of ASA and TPU, and maybe one old roll of PLA I forgot about somewhere.
Honestly I just seem to get way better print results using PETG. Plus it just seems all around better to me for what I tend to print.
I also modelled/printed a fully functional remote control boat based off a real one we’ve had. Mainly due to having a few months with way too much free time, and also just wanting to see if I could actually do it :lol:
I have a X1C and a H2D and I use them both pretty regularly. Really just depends on what “hobbies” you are using the printer to support if that makes sense. For example, I take on a lot of larger boat rebuild/refit projects, and I am constantly using my 3D printers for templates, jigs, custom mounts, enclosures and really anything else I can think of to make my life easier. Or to make something no one else makes already.
There may be 1-2 month periods when I don’t use mine because I don’t have a project or I don’t need to make anything, but mine have definitely continued to get used and for the several years I’ve owned them.
You mention you have a shop… if you’re doing a decent amount of projects or building things, I think you’ll find it useful over time. Just remember that printing is only one half of it. You’re going to need to learn 3D modelling (if you don’t already) if you plan make your own custom designs.
There may be 1-2 month periods when I don’t use mine because I don’t have a project or I don’t need to make anything, but mine have definitely continued to get used and for the several years I’ve owned them.
You mention you have a shop… if you’re doing a decent amount of projects or building things, I think you’ll find it useful over time. Just remember that printing is only one half of it. You’re going to need to learn 3D modelling (if you don’t already) if you plan make your own custom designs.
quote:
yeah y'all gotta name every document a series of numbers and letters that make no sense then have a document register listing them with more reference numbers then a damn index so you're having to jump through hoops to figure out what 3 of the 3,757 specs included with the 2 ISOs are relevant
To be fair, 90% of the time that is client driven and we don’t have a choice on how we structure/number the drawings in a work package.
I’m an EE and agree a lot of engineers make shite way more complicated than it should be, and design stuff off theory instead of real world. But not all of us are like that.
I worked for an electrical contractor in refineries/chem plants over the summer while getting my degree. I honestly think that gave me more knowledge for what I do every day than college did. Should be mandatory to spend time in the field before getting a degree.
re: TEAMs meetings
Posted by CP3 on 2/16/26 at 9:53 am to forkedintheroad
quote:
You realize the alternative is the same torture but in a conference room, right?
This. Atleast with teams meetings I can actually get work done while people are talking about things that could have been an email.
re: Door Dash having a rough few months
Posted by CP3 on 12/16/25 at 1:15 pm to Turnblad85
quote:
but all people who use door dash are lazy worthless pieces of shite.
Sometimes it’s the complete opposite. My time is worth ALOT more money than the small delivery fee they charge.
I think I am legitimately on a 30 day streak of door dashing.
Pretty sure they’ve assigned me a personal agent/rep at this point. Best service ever, get way more work done not having to leave and deal with shitty BR traffic
Pretty sure they’ve assigned me a personal agent/rep at this point. Best service ever, get way more work done not having to leave and deal with shitty BR traffic
quote:
I love it, but multi colored prints have a lot of waste
I got X1C when they first came out, and rarely did multicolor prints for this reason + added time for multicolor prints.
I got the H2D a few months ago and it made multicolor (2 color) prints WAY faster/less waste having 2 nozzles. I run a decent amount of 2 color prints now.
My brother just got the H2C which is supposedly even better for multicolor printing, but I haven’t had a chance to check it out myself yet
Bambu lab for sure.
Maybe something like a nitetrak/Sionix low light camera, portable screen, and power with cigarette lighter plug for portability?
Can get one of those cheap 7” or 9” portable displays for screen and fix it to suction cup or something?
That’s best I can think of outside of adding radar or permanent FLIR install, both of which would be significantly more expensive.
I had nitetrack on last boat. It was cool to have, but I rarely actually used it and ran radar when running at night over using the camera
Can get one of those cheap 7” or 9” portable displays for screen and fix it to suction cup or something?
That’s best I can think of outside of adding radar or permanent FLIR install, both of which would be significantly more expensive.
I had nitetrack on last boat. It was cool to have, but I rarely actually used it and ran radar when running at night over using the camera
re: 3D printer advice - Christmas present
Posted by CP3 on 11/18/25 at 8:36 pm to Fat Batman
Agree, skip on resin if you’re just getting started. They maybe getting more “user friendly”, but it’s still a lot more complex than FDM in my opinion.
I have multiple Bambu printers and also have a resin printer.
I only use my resin printer if I absolutely have to for better detail. And I dread using it because it’s still kind of a PITA and messy.
Start with Bambu A1. I think P1S and X1C might be on sale since they have the newer models out now. Those would be good if you want to spend a little more for enclosed printer
I have multiple Bambu printers and also have a resin printer.
I only use my resin printer if I absolutely have to for better detail. And I dread using it because it’s still kind of a PITA and messy.
Start with Bambu A1. I think P1S and X1C might be on sale since they have the newer models out now. Those would be good if you want to spend a little more for enclosed printer
I used a different brand on my 2011 F150. Forgot what brand it was, but it was the same thing. Android OS and integrated trim piece to replace dash.
I liked it, and never really had any issues with it. A little bit of work to get it set up right (steering wheel controls, other integrations to OEM features), but it was worth it.
That was like 8 years ago though. Got rid of that truck a while back.
I liked it, and never really had any issues with it. A little bit of work to get it set up right (steering wheel controls, other integrations to OEM features), but it was worth it.
That was like 8 years ago though. Got rid of that truck a while back.
If I’m not mistaken, doesn’t using all 4 RAM slots with AMD have stability issues/reduce RAM Speed? I seem to remember reading that you’re better off using 2 (larger) sticks of ram as opposed to 4?
Atleast that’s what I read a year ago when I built my workstation with AMD 9950
Atleast that’s what I read a year ago when I built my workstation with AMD 9950
re: 3d printing enthusiasts - a question, please
Posted by CP3 on 9/15/25 at 8:20 am to Ace Midnight
You can browse websites like printables, cults3d or thingiverse for premade files you can print. There are a ton of files out there.
Anything custom you will have to model yourself. Don’t be too intimidated, if you are half decent with a computer then modelling basic stuff isn’t that hard to do.
Plenty of Facebook and/or Reddit groups that are out there for beginners that are a good resource.
Filament wise, start with PLA or PetG. Honestly, I use PETG for pretty much everything unless it needs to be ASA/ABS for outdoors.
Anything custom you will have to model yourself. Don’t be too intimidated, if you are half decent with a computer then modelling basic stuff isn’t that hard to do.
Plenty of Facebook and/or Reddit groups that are out there for beginners that are a good resource.
Filament wise, start with PLA or PetG. Honestly, I use PETG for pretty much everything unless it needs to be ASA/ABS for outdoors.
re: 3d printing enthusiasts - a question, please
Posted by CP3 on 9/14/25 at 9:00 pm to Ace Midnight
Bambulab
I have an X1C and H2D now. Have had a few other random brands before, and honestly none of them have come close to the consistency and ease of use with Bambu.
Can get the lower end A1 if you’re just using basic materials and don’t want to spend much. Not sure about speed of prints as I don’t have an A1… but my X1C and H2D are very quick and the quality is pretty incredible.
I have an X1C and H2D now. Have had a few other random brands before, and honestly none of them have come close to the consistency and ease of use with Bambu.
Can get the lower end A1 if you’re just using basic materials and don’t want to spend much. Not sure about speed of prints as I don’t have an A1… but my X1C and H2D are very quick and the quality is pretty incredible.
I know a few guides that run them and they seem to like them. Been on one a few times and seemed like a really nice boat.
Apparently lots of oil and soot covering peoples houses in the area.
Gonna be a pretty large cleanup effort once this is all said and done.
Gonna be a pretty large cleanup effort once this is all said and done.
re: Recent marketing/sales from roofing companies
Posted by CP3 on 8/20/25 at 12:52 am to Cage Fighter Trainee
quote:
Most roofers sell you on the fact that you have hail damage because they'll get the whole roof as opposed to just a partial replacement. Older roofs exhibit signs of granule loss and blistering that the roofer describes to the homeowner is hail and suggests they file a claim. If the insurance company doesn't pay, they fight it and eventually the insurance company will pay if you are persistent because it's cheaper to pay than fighting it through the courts.
I just went through this exact scenario, but insurance wouldn’t give in after like a year of back and forth. Started leaking so i just ended up footing the bill for replacement out of pocket :banghead:
re: Any experience or recs for satellite two way messengers to use while offshore fishing?
Posted by CP3 on 8/12/25 at 8:33 pm to YOURADHERE
No inverter needed. They work on anything from 12-48VDC (60W).
Several ways to do it, you just can’t use the factory (small gauge) cable it comes with if using 12v power source. Too much voltage drop. You can run your own larger size wiring up to it, and splice to short barrel jack cable at the “dish”, power it off a 36v trolling motor battery, or use a 12/24 DC-DC converter like a Victron 12/24-5A (or a cheap Amazon 12-24v or 12-36v) with factory cable. You could also get the USB-C cable for it and use factory cable with a 12v to USB-C PD 100W plug thing, you just have to make sure it’s actually a 100W USB-C PD plug so it’s sending 20V/100W. But that’s basically the same thing as just using the DC-DC converter.
There are probably a few other ways to do it, those are just what I can think of off top of my head.
I thought you could get the 50GB roam plan and check off an option for “Offshore” or something like that, but I honestly haven’t dealt with any of the subscription stuff so I’d have to ask.
Several ways to do it, you just can’t use the factory (small gauge) cable it comes with if using 12v power source. Too much voltage drop. You can run your own larger size wiring up to it, and splice to short barrel jack cable at the “dish”, power it off a 36v trolling motor battery, or use a 12/24 DC-DC converter like a Victron 12/24-5A (or a cheap Amazon 12-24v or 12-36v) with factory cable. You could also get the USB-C cable for it and use factory cable with a 12v to USB-C PD 100W plug thing, you just have to make sure it’s actually a 100W USB-C PD plug so it’s sending 20V/100W. But that’s basically the same thing as just using the DC-DC converter.
There are probably a few other ways to do it, those are just what I can think of off top of my head.
I thought you could get the 50GB roam plan and check off an option for “Offshore” or something like that, but I honestly haven’t dealt with any of the subscription stuff so I’d have to ask.
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