CP3

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I find it extremely difficult to justify a built in system when Bluetooth speakers are so good and so cheap

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This really just depends on size/type of boat.

Small boat, sure.

Larger center console or something like a wakeboard/lake boat, not so much.

It really just depends on how much you want to spend and/or how good you want it to sound.

Top tier (IMO):
- Rockford Fosgate M2 series speakers
- JL M6 series speakers

Mid tier:
- Rockford Fosgate M0 series speakers
- JL M3 series speakers
- Kicker speakers

Budget:
- Skar speakers are actually pretty good for the price. I would almost put them in mid tier. Ran a pair of 8” in a system with some JL M6 speakers and they were comparable in loudness, not quite as clear but still sounded good enough and are SIGNIFICANTLY cheaper. They need a good bit of power though.

If you want to actually hear any of these while running you’re gonna want to power them with an amp though. I like fusion amps the most. JL and Rockford are good too. If you don’t care that much about sound quality you can probably go with cheaper options as long as you match it to power needed by speakers.

I mean, it really just comes down to what your actual loads are, and how often you’re cranking motor to move to different spots, etc. Have you had issues draining battery in the past?

People have been getting by with lead acid/AGM batteries just fine prior to LiFePO4 becoming more widely available/affordable. Nothing wrong with staying with lead acid/AGM other than they are heavier/bigger than an equivalent lithium. If you stay with LA or AGM and are worried about capacity (and have enough room), you can always jump up to the next group size for the house battery (Group 27 or even 31). Or add second one paralleled, but that seems excessive for a small boat.

I (personally) like to stick with AGM for starting and house banks, and only use lithium for trolling motor.

I have several reasons for this, some are “controversial” and have been argued several times on here, so I won’t dive too deep into it. But long story short… I don’t trust lithium as cranking battery (yet).

Since I don’t use them for cranking, I stick with LA/AGM for house just to avoid having to mix battery types, install Victron, etc. I have no issue using lithium for house batteries other than that though, and there is nothing wrong with doing it that way.

Not sure any of that actually answered your question :lol:

That is an ACR. It’s essentially a relay that parallels your crank and house battery when your engine is running and crank battery is charged.

You will need to replace that with a 12V DC-DC charger if you want to keep it set up to charge your house battery off the motor while running. Or remove the ACR and lose the ability for your house bank to charge while running.

You do not want Lithium and lead acid banks paralleled with each other.

Victron makes DC-DC converters for this. I’m sure there are cheaper versions/other methods of accomplishing the same thing, but Victron is what I would use. The Orion XS 1400 is their newer model for this (and is probably what I would use), but the older Orion XS 12/12-50A should do the same thing.

Just FYI there is also some configuration required with the Victron units, but it’s not difficult at all.



Just my thoughts if you want to do it the right way.

Edit - side note… with the Victron unit, you only need to hook whatever onboard charger you have to your starting battery. The Victron unit will allow the charge to flow to the house bank once the crank battery is full (you won’t need a separate onboard charger for the lithium). The Victron is basically a “smarter” version of the ACR, and instead of simply paralleling the batteries it’s a controlled “charge” to the lithium bank since they are different chemistries and have different charge profiles, resting voltage, etc.

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mchias1

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Sounds like we are in the same field. :cheers:

I wonder what voltage these old pumps run on. I’d assume somewhere in the 4160v range. But I’m not really sure how big they are.

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you ever been in a house when the AC kicks on and the lights dim?

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Side note/CSB… I was in the control room at a client site not long ago when they had to throw a 10,000hp 13.8kV compressor across the line to get it started (VFD wasn’t working), and that was a pretty interesting experience. Definitely dimmed the lights :lol:

Sooo what are my chances of my flight from Dallas to BTR making it at 11am tomorrow :lol:

Sold it not too long ago unfortunately

I had to find an image with a 15360x2160 resolution :lol:. Which there aren’t many of apparently.

I just googled “15360x2160 wallpaper” the set it as background with stretch or whatever the option is that puts it across every screen.

I think the website was quadmonitorbackrounds

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Lack of vapor barrier under the concrete right there?

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The water is 100% coming off the roof, so I don’t think that’s the issue.

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Maybe ask the previous owners? But they will probably lie and play ignorant. Worth a shot though.

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Honestly it would be an effort to even track them down. I’ve lived here for close to 10 years now. I just finally got the urge to try and figure out why this happens :lol:

Edit - no gutters. As far as I know this is the only spot it happens, but it’s also the only spot where it runs off to concrete. Everywhere else is over grass.