CP3

I think I am legitimately on a 30 day streak of door dashing.

Pretty sure they’ve assigned me a personal agent/rep at this point. Best service ever, get way more work done not having to leave and deal with shitty BR traffic

Bambu lab for sure.

Agree, skip on resin if you’re just getting started. They maybe getting more “user friendly”, but it’s still a lot more complex than FDM in my opinion.

I have multiple Bambu printers and also have a resin printer.

I only use my resin printer if I absolutely have to for better detail. And I dread using it because it’s still kind of a PITA and messy.

Start with Bambu A1. I think P1S and X1C might be on sale since they have the newer models out now. Those would be good if you want to spend a little more for enclosed printer

If I’m not mistaken, doesn’t using all 4 RAM slots with AMD have stability issues/reduce RAM Speed? I seem to remember reading that you’re better off using 2 (larger) sticks of ram as opposed to 4?

Atleast that’s what I read a year ago when I built my workstation with AMD 9950

Bambulab

I have an X1C and H2D now. Have had a few other random brands before, and honestly none of them have come close to the consistency and ease of use with Bambu.

Can get the lower end A1 if you’re just using basic materials and don’t want to spend much. Not sure about speed of prints as I don’t have an A1… but my X1C and H2D are very quick and the quality is pretty incredible.

Apparently lots of oil and soot covering peoples houses in the area.

Gonna be a pretty large cleanup effort once this is all said and done.

No inverter needed. They work on anything from 12-48VDC (60W).

Several ways to do it, you just can’t use the factory (small gauge) cable it comes with if using 12v power source. Too much voltage drop. You can run your own larger size wiring up to it, and splice to short barrel jack cable at the “dish”, power it off a 36v trolling motor battery, or use a 12/24 DC-DC converter like a Victron 12/24-5A (or a cheap Amazon 12-24v or 12-36v) with factory cable. You could also get the USB-C cable for it and use factory cable with a 12v to USB-C PD 100W plug thing, you just have to make sure it’s actually a 100W USB-C PD plug so it’s sending 20V/100W. But that’s basically the same thing as just using the DC-DC converter.

There are probably a few other ways to do it, those are just what I can think of off top of my head.

I thought you could get the 50GB roam plan and check off an option for “Offshore” or something like that, but I honestly haven’t dealt with any of the subscription stuff so I’d have to ask.

Ah gotcha. You were replying to the other guy then.

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I just checked their site. They only list one cranking battery. It is claimed to be "IP67, Mercury compliant" . So, it it wasn't that battery, I would not take it as an example of one not to use.

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The faulty BMS sensor doesn’t care if it’s a cranking battery or approved by mercury lol. Any lithium with any BMS can have a lockout for any valid (or non valid) reason. It’s a basically a computer between your power source and the end device that introduces an additional (possible) point of failure that can prevent you from having power. Computers/sensors aren’t perfect, and anyone that owns a mercury for a decent length of time should be well aware of this :lol:

Do the majority of lithium batteries experience a faulty BMS? No, it’s probably pretty uncommon.

But being an EE and my focus being on reliability (based on the use case of boats I work on), it’s hard for me to justify that risk just to have a smaller/lighter battery. Sure, you can lose a cell or have a AGM/LA go bad after time, but that typically won’t happen randomly while your out fishing and there will be signs beforehand that there is an issue. If it does, it’s a lot easier to troubleshoot/diagnose/bypass than a built in BMS is.

Don’t get me wrong, I’m not afraid of new technology and I think lithiums are great in the right application. I guess it just comes down to how much it would impact you if for whatever reason your battery decides it wants to shut off mid trip one day, even if it’s a rare occurrence.

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I know a guy that flipped 42 Freemans for a few years. He would take delivery of one, and order the next one. When the other was ready for delivery, he would sell the one he had.

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I know people that weren’t even taking delivery lol. They were putting deposits on build slots, and then selling build slots for profit to people that didn’t want a long wait time :lol:

But my buddies dad has basically done what you described on every boat he’s owned for past few years. He’s in a 26 Costa right now actually.

Build a new one, order new one when first is delivered, fish it for a year or 2, sell it for more than or equal to what the one he ordered cost, and get brand new boat for what he sells 2yr old boat for. Rinse and repeat. Boat flipping was a great way to make money or stay on a new boat several years ago. Has definitely slowed down lately though.