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F150 gas gauge issue
Posted on 7/13/25 at 1:36 am
Posted on 7/13/25 at 1:36 am
My F150’s dash gauge stays on E, regardless of how full. Says zero miles to empty.
Mechanic thinks it’s the float in the tank that needs replacing and said it’d cost roughly $1,000 because you have to drop the tank out.
This sound right?
Mechanic thinks it’s the float in the tank that needs replacing and said it’d cost roughly $1,000 because you have to drop the tank out.
This sound right?
Posted on 7/13/25 at 1:40 am to King of New Orleans
I can get a little more specific if you tell me the year, color, and trim level. From my buddy Grok.
quote:
Ballpark Estimate for Replacing the Fuel Level Sending Unit (Including Float)Average Cost (Professional Repair): According to RepairPal, the cost to replace a Ford F-150 fuel level sending unit ranges from $1,108 to $1,432. This includes:
Parts: $800–$1,000 (fuel level sending unit, which includes the float, and possibly related components like gaskets or seals).
Labor: $300–$450, based on 2–4 hours of labor at an average rate of $85–$150 per hour, depending on the shop and region.
DIY Cost: If you replace the sending unit yourself, costs are significantly lower:Parts: A replacement fuel level sending unit can cost $50–$200 from retailers like AutoZone or RockAuto, depending on whether you choose an aftermarket or OEM part.
Tools/Supplies: You may need basic tools (wrenches, screwdrivers, etc.), and possibly a floor jack or cargo straps to lower the fuel tank, adding $0–$100 if you don’t already own these.
Total DIY cost: $50–$300, assuming no additional complications.
Factors Affecting CostModel Year and Configuration: Older F-150s (e.g., 1997–2003) may have simpler systems, potentially lowering costs, while newer models (e.g., 2017–2025) may have integrated components requiring more expensive parts.
Access to the Sending Unit: In some F-150s, the fuel level sending unit can be accessed via a service port under the rear seat or trunk lining, making the job quicker. In others, the fuel tank must be dropped, increasing labor time and cost.
Related Repairs: If the fuel pump or fuel filter is also faulty, technicians often recommend replacing them simultaneously, as they’re accessed during the same procedure. This could add:Fuel Pump: $922–$1,257 or $50–$200 for parts if DIY.
Fuel Filter: $92–$140.
Geographic Location: Labor rates vary widely. For example, rates in Illinois for a 1997 F-150 were quoted at $85–$125/hour, while urban areas or dealerships may charge $150/hour or more.
Parts Quality: OEM parts are pricier than aftermarket options. For instance, a fuel tank pressure sensor (related to the sending unit) was quoted at $95 from a dealer, while aftermarket options may be cheaper.
Posted on 7/13/25 at 2:08 am to King of New Orleans
OP's truck. The gas has to run uphill.
Posted on 7/13/25 at 2:18 am to King of New Orleans
Go everywhere in reverse, that way, the fuel will always flow from your tank to the engine due to inertia.
Posted on 7/13/25 at 2:19 am to King of New Orleans
Found the problem
quote:
F150
Posted on 7/13/25 at 2:32 am to King of New Orleans
quote:
My F150’s dash gauge stays on E, regardless of how full. Says zero miles to empty. Mechanic thinks it’s the float in the tank that needs replacing and said it’d cost roughly $1,000 because you have to drop the tank out. This sound right?
We talking 1960 or 2019 model?
I’d just keep gas in it at this point. The green is diesel fyi.
Posted on 7/13/25 at 2:37 am to Rebel
quote:
I can get a little more specific if you tell me the year, color, and trim level.
Posted on 7/13/25 at 4:11 am to King of New Orleans
Cheaper and easier to pull the bed. If it’s 2015 or newer, the bed is aluminum and super light.
If you’re the DIY type- You’ll need a breaker bar and either a TP55 or Ep24 socket (dependent on year)- do not try to break the bed bolts with an impact. Inevitably, one of the two (or both) front bed bolts won’t budge and will snap your bit. Reason: the nuts are not fully threaded and the bolts cut the threads when installed at the factory, they also use blue loctite. Why is it always the front bed bolts? I wish I knew.
Ford says the bed bolts are “one-time use”, but before I knew that, I reused them all the time. To do it correctly, they should be replaced.
You’ll need to unbolt the fuel neck, disconnect the tail lamp harnesses and a couple of grounds. Book time for remove and install of the bed is 2 hours. If you have access to a two post lift, it’s quick and easy. If not, time to buy beer and call three buddies.
If you’re the DIY type- You’ll need a breaker bar and either a TP55 or Ep24 socket (dependent on year)- do not try to break the bed bolts with an impact. Inevitably, one of the two (or both) front bed bolts won’t budge and will snap your bit. Reason: the nuts are not fully threaded and the bolts cut the threads when installed at the factory, they also use blue loctite. Why is it always the front bed bolts? I wish I knew.
Ford says the bed bolts are “one-time use”, but before I knew that, I reused them all the time. To do it correctly, they should be replaced.
You’ll need to unbolt the fuel neck, disconnect the tail lamp harnesses and a couple of grounds. Book time for remove and install of the bed is 2 hours. If you have access to a two post lift, it’s quick and easy. If not, time to buy beer and call three buddies.
Posted on 7/13/25 at 5:34 am to King of New Orleans
My 1979 F-150 had the same problem, never change Ford.
Posted on 7/13/25 at 6:17 am to Rize
It’s a 2010. Still runs great. Just a pain dealing with this.
Posted on 7/13/25 at 6:36 am to King of New Orleans
There is the redneck way to replace the float/sending unit: it involves tin snips and not being worried about aesthetics of the bed floor.
I’ve seen a few GM 1500 products from the 2000-2010 period with the scar of that fix procedure.
I’ve seen a few GM 1500 products from the 2000-2010 period with the scar of that fix procedure.
Posted on 7/13/25 at 6:49 am to soccerfüt
The gas gauge went out on my Nissan truck. I just kept an eye on the trip odometer.
Posted on 7/13/25 at 6:50 am to soccerfüt
I’m lazy. I’d just fill it up and reset the trip odometer. Refuel when you think you have about 1/4 tank left.
Posted on 7/13/25 at 6:54 am to King of New Orleans
Want to do it yourself? Very easy. Get parts from rockauto.com to save money there if you don’t mind waiting for them. But it’s fairly fast.
This post was edited on 7/13/25 at 6:56 am
Posted on 7/13/25 at 7:03 am to Rize
quote:
We talking 1960 or 2019 model?
I am having trouble finding a pic of a 1960 F-150.
Posted on 7/13/25 at 7:10 am to King of New Orleans
I just had to do this. A new float is around 70 bucks, it’s a fairly easy swap. Even easier if you don’t have a super crew, as you can get to the pump easily by taking your bed off. On a Super Crew the pump is just under the cab, so you do have to drop the tank. It’s still pretty easy, assuming you run your tank about to empty.
Posted on 7/13/25 at 7:38 am to Hangit
quote:Even the 1960 Ford brochure is too.
I am having trouble finding a pic of a 1960 F-150.
I was going to say something but I wasn’t sure when the F-150 model debuted.
(1975 MY for the curious)

Posted on 7/13/25 at 7:48 am to King of New Orleans
Wish I could help, but have a Tundra so don’t experience any problems.
240,000 miles.
My pops had an old truck when we were growing up and the gas gauge didn’t work. He just filled it up every 100 miles or so.
240,000 miles.
My pops had an old truck when we were growing up and the gas gauge didn’t work. He just filled it up every 100 miles or so.
Posted on 7/13/25 at 9:46 am to King of New Orleans
Mine did this last year. They installed a new valve assembly/cannister-fuel vapor store. Fixed the issue.
Posted on 7/13/25 at 10:16 am to King of New Orleans
Might be an overheated fuel pump too, tends to happen with hot weather and running your car on low a lot.
Check the fuel pressure just to make sure.
Check the fuel pressure just to make sure.
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