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F150 gas gauge issue

Posted on 7/13/25 at 1:36 am
Posted by King of New Orleans
In front of The Hungry Tiger
Member since Jul 2011
10707 posts
Posted on 7/13/25 at 1:36 am
My F150’s dash gauge stays on E, regardless of how full. Says zero miles to empty.

Mechanic thinks it’s the float in the tank that needs replacing and said it’d cost roughly $1,000 because you have to drop the tank out.

This sound right?
Posted by Rebel
Graceland
Member since Jan 2005
140998 posts
Posted on 7/13/25 at 1:40 am to
I can get a little more specific if you tell me the year, color, and trim level. From my buddy Grok.

quote:

Ballpark Estimate for Replacing the Fuel Level Sending Unit (Including Float)Average Cost (Professional Repair): According to RepairPal, the cost to replace a Ford F-150 fuel level sending unit ranges from $1,108 to $1,432. This includes:

Parts: $800–$1,000 (fuel level sending unit, which includes the float, and possibly related components like gaskets or seals).
Labor: $300–$450, based on 2–4 hours of labor at an average rate of $85–$150 per hour, depending on the shop and region.

DIY Cost: If you replace the sending unit yourself, costs are significantly lower:Parts: A replacement fuel level sending unit can cost $50–$200 from retailers like AutoZone or RockAuto, depending on whether you choose an aftermarket or OEM part.

Tools/Supplies: You may need basic tools (wrenches, screwdrivers, etc.), and possibly a floor jack or cargo straps to lower the fuel tank, adding $0–$100 if you don’t already own these.

Total DIY cost: $50–$300, assuming no additional complications.

Factors Affecting CostModel Year and Configuration: Older F-150s (e.g., 1997–2003) may have simpler systems, potentially lowering costs, while newer models (e.g., 2017–2025) may have integrated components requiring more expensive parts.

Access to the Sending Unit: In some F-150s, the fuel level sending unit can be accessed via a service port under the rear seat or trunk lining, making the job quicker. In others, the fuel tank must be dropped, increasing labor time and cost.

Related Repairs: If the fuel pump or fuel filter is also faulty, technicians often recommend replacing them simultaneously, as they’re accessed during the same procedure. This could add:Fuel Pump: $922–$1,257 or $50–$200 for parts if DIY.

Fuel Filter: $92–$140.

Geographic Location: Labor rates vary widely. For example, rates in Illinois for a 1997 F-150 were quoted at $85–$125/hour, while urban areas or dealerships may charge $150/hour or more.

Parts Quality: OEM parts are pricier than aftermarket options. For instance, a fuel tank pressure sensor (related to the sending unit) was quoted at $95 from a dealer, while aftermarket options may be cheaper.
Posted by Jim Rockford
Member since May 2011
104073 posts
Posted on 7/13/25 at 2:08 am to


OP's truck. The gas has to run uphill.
Posted by auggie
Opelika, Alabama
Member since Aug 2013
30739 posts
Posted on 7/13/25 at 2:18 am to
Go everywhere in reverse, that way, the fuel will always flow from your tank to the engine due to inertia.
Posted by TigerBait2008
Boulder,CO
Member since Jun 2008
37508 posts
Posted on 7/13/25 at 2:19 am to
Found the problem


quote:

F150
Posted by Rize
Spring Texas
Member since Sep 2011
18548 posts
Posted on 7/13/25 at 2:32 am to
quote:

My F150’s dash gauge stays on E, regardless of how full. Says zero miles to empty. Mechanic thinks it’s the float in the tank that needs replacing and said it’d cost roughly $1,000 because you have to drop the tank out. This sound right?


We talking 1960 or 2019 model?

I’d just keep gas in it at this point. The green is diesel fyi.
Posted by biglego
San Francisco
Member since Nov 2007
82761 posts
Posted on 7/13/25 at 2:37 am to
quote:

I can get a little more specific if you tell me the year, color, and trim level.


Posted by DLauw
SWLA
Member since Sep 2011
6193 posts
Posted on 7/13/25 at 4:11 am to
Cheaper and easier to pull the bed. If it’s 2015 or newer, the bed is aluminum and super light.

If you’re the DIY type- You’ll need a breaker bar and either a TP55 or Ep24 socket (dependent on year)- do not try to break the bed bolts with an impact. Inevitably, one of the two (or both) front bed bolts won’t budge and will snap your bit. Reason: the nuts are not fully threaded and the bolts cut the threads when installed at the factory, they also use blue loctite. Why is it always the front bed bolts? I wish I knew.

Ford says the bed bolts are “one-time use”, but before I knew that, I reused them all the time. To do it correctly, they should be replaced.

You’ll need to unbolt the fuel neck, disconnect the tail lamp harnesses and a couple of grounds. Book time for remove and install of the bed is 2 hours. If you have access to a two post lift, it’s quick and easy. If not, time to buy beer and call three buddies.
Posted by LSUtoBOOT
Member since Aug 2012
18926 posts
Posted on 7/13/25 at 5:34 am to
My 1979 F-150 had the same problem, never change Ford.
Posted by King of New Orleans
In front of The Hungry Tiger
Member since Jul 2011
10707 posts
Posted on 7/13/25 at 6:17 am to
It’s a 2010. Still runs great. Just a pain dealing with this.
Posted by soccerfüt
Location: A Series of Tubes
Member since May 2013
72549 posts
Posted on 7/13/25 at 6:36 am to
There is the redneck way to replace the float/sending unit: it involves tin snips and not being worried about aesthetics of the bed floor.

I’ve seen a few GM 1500 products from the 2000-2010 period with the scar of that fix procedure.
Posted by SpotCheckBilly
Member since May 2020
8161 posts
Posted on 7/13/25 at 6:49 am to
The gas gauge went out on my Nissan truck. I just kept an eye on the trip odometer.
Posted by Finnish
Member since Nov 2021
764 posts
Posted on 7/13/25 at 6:50 am to
I’m lazy. I’d just fill it up and reset the trip odometer. Refuel when you think you have about 1/4 tank left.
Posted by UptownJoeBrown
Baton Rouge
Member since Jul 2024
5987 posts
Posted on 7/13/25 at 6:54 am to
Want to do it yourself? Very easy. Get parts from rockauto.com to save money there if you don’t mind waiting for them. But it’s fairly fast.
This post was edited on 7/13/25 at 6:56 am
Posted by Hangit
The Green Swamp
Member since Aug 2014
45102 posts
Posted on 7/13/25 at 7:03 am to
quote:

We talking 1960 or 2019 model?


I am having trouble finding a pic of a 1960 F-150.
Posted by Soul Gleaux
Baton Rouge
Member since Sep 2012
4201 posts
Posted on 7/13/25 at 7:10 am to
I just had to do this. A new float is around 70 bucks, it’s a fairly easy swap. Even easier if you don’t have a super crew, as you can get to the pump easily by taking your bed off. On a Super Crew the pump is just under the cab, so you do have to drop the tank. It’s still pretty easy, assuming you run your tank about to empty.
Posted by soccerfüt
Location: A Series of Tubes
Member since May 2013
72549 posts
Posted on 7/13/25 at 7:38 am to
quote:

I am having trouble finding a pic of a 1960 F-150.
Even the 1960 Ford brochure is too.

I was going to say something but I wasn’t sure when the F-150 model debuted.

(1975 MY for the curious)

Posted by BabyTac
Austin, TX
Member since Jun 2008
15557 posts
Posted on 7/13/25 at 7:48 am to
Wish I could help, but have a Tundra so don’t experience any problems.

240,000 miles.

My pops had an old truck when we were growing up and the gas gauge didn’t work. He just filled it up every 100 miles or so.
Posted by MAUCKjersey1
Member since Aug 2005
3653 posts
Posted on 7/13/25 at 9:46 am to
Mine did this last year. They installed a new valve assembly/cannister-fuel vapor store. Fixed the issue.
Posted by Defenseiskey
Houston, TX
Member since Nov 2010
1633 posts
Posted on 7/13/25 at 10:16 am to
Might be an overheated fuel pump too, tends to happen with hot weather and running your car on low a lot.

Check the fuel pressure just to make sure.
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