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OT mechanics - Best engine cleaning additive (oil)

Posted on 1/3/24 at 1:56 pm
Posted by theantiquetiger
Paid Premium Member Plus
Member since Feb 2005
19401 posts
Posted on 1/3/24 at 1:56 pm
What is the best way to clean out the block with burnt oil/carbon build up? I’m talking about some kind of additive to add to the oil and drive for a while, to clean out the build up, and how long do you drive around with it?
I see all kinds of additives, but what is the best?
Posted by beerJeep
Louisiana
Member since Nov 2016
35333 posts
Posted on 1/3/24 at 1:58 pm to
Booty sweat
Posted by High C
viewing the fall....
Member since Nov 2012
54369 posts
Posted on 1/3/24 at 1:59 pm to
Are you currently running synthetic?
Posted by jpainter6174
Boss city
Member since Feb 2014
5402 posts
Posted on 1/3/24 at 2:00 pm to
Marvel Mystery oil 1/5 ratio (20%), couple hundred miles.
This post was edited on 1/3/24 at 2:03 pm
Posted by jstew311
Grant Parish Meth Lab
Member since Dec 2005
860 posts
Posted on 1/3/24 at 2:01 pm to
Seafoam
Posted by cdhorn28
Member since Sep 2016
248 posts
Posted on 1/3/24 at 2:02 pm to
Marvel Mystery Earl
Posted by Chazreinhold
Utah
Member since Oct 2020
5884 posts
Posted on 1/3/24 at 2:02 pm to
Drain out a quart of oil and replace it with Diesel Fuel. Idle engine for 10 minutes and drain case, fill with new oil.
This post was edited on 1/3/24 at 2:05 pm
Posted by Kingpenm3
Xanadu
Member since Aug 2011
8985 posts
Posted on 1/3/24 at 2:14 pm to
quote:

OT mechanics - Best engine cleaning additive (oil)



LS Swap
Posted by Clames
Member since Oct 2010
16740 posts
Posted on 1/3/24 at 2:19 pm to
quote:

I see all kinds of additives, but what is the best?


Most decent mechanics will tell you not to do engine flushes. Most of them are snake oil and you are just paying for some kerosene and a few solvent additives. MMO and Seafoam have limited solvent capacity in the amounts you can safely run in the engine, they aren't going to do much when there's a lot of hard deposits and varnish involved. The best way to go, assuming you don't have an engine that has stuck rings, is to simply start using a quality synthetic oil/filter and change the oil on shorter intervals. Most oils have increased detergent additives now, synthetic oils especially and they can clean out an engine gradually.
Posted by billjamin
Houston
Member since Jun 2019
12920 posts
Posted on 1/3/24 at 2:22 pm to
Don't put any of that shite in your engine. Just run a good oil and increase frequency of filter changes. If you are really neurotic about it, start doing oil analysis and install an additional bypass filter.
Posted by dewster
Chicago
Member since Aug 2006
25447 posts
Posted on 1/3/24 at 2:30 pm to
If your concern is carbon build up on the back of the valves….how would an oil additive help? Wouldn’t you need to focus on the intake? Then a catch can to prevent it from recurring?

Honestly I wouldn’t worry too much about it unless you have a Volvo, VW, Honda, or Audi with a turbo + DI. For whatever reason, their turbo DI engines have either a overly simplistic PVC system or they aren’t using adequate baffling to catch the blow by, enabling all that garbage to get baked onto the back of the intake valves.

GM, Ford, and Toyota do pretty well with it with their newer DI engines especially in their trucks. A lot of people do not like the smaller displacement turbos, but the GM Turbomax and the Ford Ecoboost motors have actually been pretty solid. In some cases they are adding port fuel injections to their DI engines too which is the nuclear option against carbon on the back of the intake valves - at least until the EPA objects to that.

If you have a Ford 5.4 or one of the other engines prone to oil sludge….change it often with high quality oil. That’s really good advice for any modern engine. Lower weight oil is used these days and they are deploying these variable pressure oil pumps (to reduce load on engine and increase MPG) that can potentially starve engines from oil in some circumstances. That’s what’s really hurting the lifters in the Ford 7.3L gas engine and some of the Chevy V8s from 3-4 years ago. Only way to combat those issues is to change the oil often and use the top quality synthetic. And listen carefully for a ticks so you can address them before metal parts start flowing through the motor.
This post was edited on 1/3/24 at 2:41 pm
Posted by Pfft
Member since Jul 2014
3803 posts
Posted on 1/3/24 at 2:41 pm to
If you only have 4 or 5 years on the motor I don't think you should have much build up issue.
A little additive to your gas every so often would not hurt.
The turbo motors do build up some due to the excess blow back. If that is the concern look up a catch can for your vehicle. They are easy to install in most vehicles.
Posted by jaytothen
Member since Jan 2020
6473 posts
Posted on 1/3/24 at 3:52 pm to
Stop buying cheap gas and oil, change regularly, do regular maintenance, don't worry about buildup.

If you're REALLY paranoid, get an oil catch can at the PCV, it'll capture fuel and oil before it gets back to the combustion chamber. Thank EPA for that engineering stupidity.
Posted by Jimbeaux
Member since Sep 2003
20205 posts
Posted on 1/3/24 at 5:11 pm to
This guy’s videos are great. Project Farm.

He compares lots of products, not just engine cleaners.

This one compares SeaFoam, Marvel MO, and Chevron Techron.

YouTube (10 minutes)

In this test SeaFoam did the best, but all 3 seem to work better than nothing.
This post was edited on 1/3/24 at 5:13 pm
Posted by ScaryTerry
Baton Rouge
Member since Oct 2021
18 posts
Posted on 1/3/24 at 5:40 pm to
If you can find it, use BG EPR. Pretty much only sold to repair shops as far as I know, but it works on crankcase/valvetrain/vvt carbon deposits. Idle for 10-15 minutes after adding it, then change oil and filter.
Posted by VetteGuy
Member since Feb 2008
28757 posts
Posted on 1/3/24 at 6:27 pm to
None.

Open it up once in awhile, or call me and I'll take care of it.
Posted by deeprig9
Unincorporated Ozora, Georgia
Member since Sep 2012
64700 posts
Posted on 1/3/24 at 6:38 pm to
Sorry to hijack-

My 2015 jeep has only ever had premium synthetic oil since its day of purchase. Recently I got an oil light. Check the sticker on my window, only 9000 miles and 13 months since the last oil change. I had been told that 10,000 is ok with premium synthetic oil. I checked the oil, it was jet black and a quart low. This vehicle is not used for towing (at least not in the last year) it is a local grocery getter school dropper offer. I did not expect the oil to be this shitty.

What is causing the oil to deteriorate so quickly now?
Posted by Civildawg
Member since May 2012
8644 posts
Posted on 1/3/24 at 6:43 pm to
BG epr. Get it in amazon. Then start using a good synthetic oil and change it every 2-3k miles until the engine starts clearing up. I would do a BG epr flush after the next 2-3 oil changes
Posted by Bow08tie
Louisiana
Member since Oct 2011
4245 posts
Posted on 1/3/24 at 6:46 pm to
The 'best' way is to tear the engine down and do a thorough cleaning.
Posted by Macfly
BR & DS
Member since Jan 2016
8189 posts
Posted on 1/3/24 at 7:53 pm to
Oil additives aren't needed if one keeps up with oil and filter changes scheduled according to driving conditions.
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