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Started By
Message
Anyone a motor oil geek?
Posted on 5/25/26 at 9:30 pm
Posted on 5/25/26 at 9:30 pm
I thought about trying start a thread on the matter. The last year or so I have really taken a deep dive into motor oil and it’s pretty interesting. It’s also lead me to better maintenance of my vehicles. I was one to never really go over on oil changes and I used to do them myself. Then decided to take it to a really good local place. It’s great really. But it is bulk oil.
Anyway fast forward and I’m much more educated but know that I don’t know it all by any means. Anyone else want to talk motor oil, filters and etc?
Anyway fast forward and I’m much more educated but know that I don’t know it all by any means. Anyone else want to talk motor oil, filters and etc?
Posted on 5/25/26 at 9:44 pm to Lucky_Stryke
Geek is probably a strong word. My career requires that I know a little bit about it and I do get the benefit of having some colleagues who are tremendously educated on the subject.
Ive taken the "change it enough and nothing else really matters" approach with my personal stuff. It can be fun to nerd out on though.
The real way to nerd out like the lube engineers is pull samples and trend out everything. Keep records of each peice of equipment, all that fun stuff.
Ive taken the "change it enough and nothing else really matters" approach with my personal stuff. It can be fun to nerd out on though.
The real way to nerd out like the lube engineers is pull samples and trend out everything. Keep records of each peice of equipment, all that fun stuff.
Posted on 5/25/26 at 10:06 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
After doing a few UOA on my vehicles in the past and seeing the results, I also took a much more simplified approach to my own vehicles. If it’s got enough oil in it, it’s probably fine. Change it on some reasonable frequency and it’s not gonna hurt anything.
We’re not talking high end performance, super tight clearances, high compressions, extreme temperature, dry sump, etc. In your everyday vehicles, it just doesn’t really matter all that much.
We’re not talking high end performance, super tight clearances, high compressions, extreme temperature, dry sump, etc. In your everyday vehicles, it just doesn’t really matter all that much.
Posted on 5/25/26 at 10:11 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
Geek is probably a strong word
lol I’ll give you that. It kinda lends into a guy on YouTube called the motor oil geek. Worked at driven developing oil. His dad was a race car driver. Pretty informative stuff.
He deeps dives into what things do in motor oil and analysis of oil samples and what to shoot for
Posted on 5/25/26 at 10:15 pm to LSUtigerME
quote:
After doing a few UOA on my vehicles in the past and seeing the results, I also took a much more simplified approach to my own vehicles. If it’s got enough oil in it, it’s probably fine. Change it on some reasonable frequency and it’s not gonna hurt anything. We’re not talking high end performance, super tight clearances, high compressions, extreme temperature, dry sump, etc. In your everyday vehicles, it just doesn’t really matter all that much
I’m pretty interested in your results. I have an off road Tacoma I’ve had since it had 24k miles on it. Currently has 48k. I’ve had it for about 5 years so it’s not driven hard.
I’m currently running valvoline restore and protect for the next 3 cycles (valvoline says 4 but mine is low miles) then pennzoil ultra platinum 5w30 even though it specs for 0w20.
Filter is carquest premium. 99.5 % at 20 microns is hard to beat
Posted on 5/25/26 at 10:15 pm to Lucky_Stryke
Tell me what I need to know.
To what extent should oil be matched to a car?
Are brands interchangeable? Or is one 5w30 better than any other brand?
To what extent should oil be matched to a car?
Are brands interchangeable? Or is one 5w30 better than any other brand?
Posted on 5/25/26 at 10:15 pm to LSUtigerME
quote:
We’re not talking high end performance, super tight clearances, high compressions, extreme temperature, dry sump, etc. In your everyday vehicles, it just doesn’t really matter all that much.
Yea and even if we were, just change it often enough and doesnt matter. Defining "often enough" is where it gets juicy.
Oil these days is so very good. What I would be interested to see is someone charting wear metals on a modern engine with variable displacsment oiling system.
Posted on 5/25/26 at 10:17 pm to Lucky_Stryke
quote:
Filter is carquest premium. 99.5 % at 20 microns is hard to beat
Since we are in a safe place for nerding out, what standard is it tested to?
Posted on 5/25/26 at 10:42 pm to Lucky_Stryke
This thread might turn into the biggest banger home and garden has put out in awhile
Posted on 5/25/26 at 11:02 pm to Lucky_Stryke
Oil analysis provides the picture
Switched from Conventional to Full synthetic
Moved from every 5000 mile changes (manufacture suggested) to now every 10,000 miles.
275,000 miles in and still going strong
Switched from Conventional to Full synthetic
Moved from every 5000 mile changes (manufacture suggested) to now every 10,000 miles.
275,000 miles in and still going strong
Posted on 5/25/26 at 11:12 pm to Willie Stroker
Pennzoil ultra platinum, Mobil 1 extended protection or Mobil 1 esp for everyday drivers.
If they are higher mileage or unknown maintenance I’d run valvoline restore and protect 4 cycles through there. It really cleans engines and even piston rings!
For turbo cars I’d go with esp or ultra platinum for readily available stuff. Amsoil signature series for high end
Use a quality filter as well. I like carquest premium
If they are higher mileage or unknown maintenance I’d run valvoline restore and protect 4 cycles through there. It really cleans engines and even piston rings!
For turbo cars I’d go with esp or ultra platinum for readily available stuff. Amsoil signature series for high end
Use a quality filter as well. I like carquest premium
Posted on 5/25/26 at 11:16 pm to Willie Stroker
Another thing to keep in mind is that 5w30 will protect better than 0w20. The reason that its specs for that oil is cafe regulations for fuel economy to not get fined in America.not for protection sake
Posted on 5/25/26 at 11:51 pm to Lucky_Stryke
In a former life, I used to work as a diesel mechanic at a dealership. We pulled oil samples from every machine that came into the shop. We had it all analyzed and trended metals, lubricity and silicone over time. We were able to head off a hell a lot of problems that way on some very expensive equipment.
Nowadays, I just change my oil every 4,000 mi and let it ride. My truck has over 300,000 miles on it so there’s that!
I almost took a job out of LSU with Texaco Lubricants, which I would have found very interesting…but I didn’t want to be a salesman.
Nowadays, I just change my oil every 4,000 mi and let it ride. My truck has over 300,000 miles on it so there’s that!
I almost took a job out of LSU with Texaco Lubricants, which I would have found very interesting…but I didn’t want to be a salesman.
This post was edited on 5/25/26 at 11:54 pm
Posted on 5/25/26 at 11:54 pm to Lucky_Stryke
I can't recall the name of the channel but there is a super geek on YT that covers everything you need to know. Ran a multi year test and recorded it all.
One of the big things he showed was brand does not matter. As long as you are getting the same grade oils the Walmart brand is as good as Mobile 1.
One of the big things he showed was brand does not matter. As long as you are getting the same grade oils the Walmart brand is as good as Mobile 1.
Posted on 5/26/26 at 12:07 am to GREENHEAD22
Project farm most likely. Fyi mobil1 has something new called clean or whatever. Anyways Walmart has $6 cash back on it then you can upload receipt to Mobil and get $10 gift card and a fast and furious cup for each jug.
Posted on 5/26/26 at 12:50 am to Lucky_Stryke
I run mobil1 and change every 10k miles. Filter every other time.
Last truck had over 300k miles and ran like new.
Current truck has 216k miles and same thing.
I redline most gears.
I will occasionally change it early IF I notice an increase in noise at startup. Usually those are winter months were it idles for 20 minutes every morning.
Last truck had over 300k miles and ran like new.
Current truck has 216k miles and same thing.
I redline most gears.
I will occasionally change it early IF I notice an increase in noise at startup. Usually those are winter months were it idles for 20 minutes every morning.
Posted on 5/26/26 at 6:10 am to GREENHEAD22
quote:
brand does not matter. As long as you are getting the same grade oils the Walmart brand is as good as Mobile 1.
This is generally true. As long as you buy oil that meets the certifications your equipment requires and is of the correct viscosity range for how you use it and change it often enough, it will be fine.
Where we see lube oil related failures it is almost always due to going too long between changes or contamination. Very rarely someone will put the wrong enough stuff in an engine or gearbox to trash it but its exceedingly rare.
Posted on 5/26/26 at 6:40 am to Lucky_Stryke
quote:
Another thing to keep in mind is that 5w30 will protect better than 0w20. The reason that its specs for that oil is cafe regulations for fuel economy to not get fined in America.not for protection sake
True. The 0w20 is just recommended to meet cafe like you said. It’s only designed to get the engine though the warranty period, not the 250,000 miles the engine was engineered to endure.
Posted on 5/26/26 at 7:36 am to Lucky_Stryke
Don’t overthink it.
The most important thing is to change your oil and filter regularly.
The most important thing is to change your oil and filter regularly.
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