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Eating my way through Italy
Posted on 6/26/26 at 3:16 pm
Posted on 6/26/26 at 3:16 pm
Planning a trip for next year. A little over 3 weeks I’m thinking. That’s what I did for France and it seemed to be a good pace and a couple days in each place. Debating on car or not but that does save a lot of time having your own car to store your luggage.
Where were your favorite places and meals? I’m thinking Florence, Bologna, Rome, and Naples. Open to other places.
Love Italian food and I also enjoy walking around in the morning to grab a coffee and pastry. Maybe do one Michelin spot in each city.
Where were your favorite places and meals? I’m thinking Florence, Bologna, Rome, and Naples. Open to other places.
Love Italian food and I also enjoy walking around in the morning to grab a coffee and pastry. Maybe do one Michelin spot in each city.
Posted on 6/26/26 at 3:34 pm to DonJuanDaMiles
If you’re sticking to those big cities you really don’t need a car. You can ride high speed rail from all of those cities to the others. Now if you want to get out in the country the car will really help.
Posted on 6/26/26 at 6:31 pm to DonJuanDaMiles
quote:Here's something you need to know: the UK, US and Australia are culinary outliers in that restaurant competition seems to revolve around variety.
Where were your favorite places and meals? I’m thinking Florence, Bologna, Rome, and Naples. Open to other places.
Love Italian food and I also enjoy walking around in the morning to grab a coffee and pastry. Maybe do one Michelin spot in each city.
However, the median country - Italy included - does not operate this way. Rather, the restaurants basically compete to make THE BEST version of a narrow set of dishes.
To the point that I find it repetitive and undifferentiated.
And it's very on the nose. e.g. In Bologna, expect basically every single Italian restaurant to prominently feature pasta bolognese.
I spent 2 weeks in December touring with locals and was quite disappointed overall with the culinary experience. People can go on and on about "fresh" pasta all they want, but there truly is very little - if any- detectable difference from place to place.
Pizza is an interesting experience too. It isn't shared and it's eaten with utensils and not sliced.
Some seafood is decent, although they are very heavy on the octopus and squid. We had Christmas Eve dinner with a large family at a nice house...and almost every dish was squid or octopus.
Also, it seems dessert often consists of pannettone, which I find personally to be very meh.
All of this to say - the food quality is overall quite good, but it's a lot different from what one might expect. It's definitely overrated.
Posted on 6/26/26 at 7:06 pm to Big Scrub TX
I had a very different experience from everything you just said. But I suppose it's a big country and maybe we were in different places.
In Florence I had great steaks at Osteria dell'Enoteca and La Tenda Rossa. I loved the lasagna at Trattoria Za Za.
My favorite meal anywhere was in a town called Spoleto at Il Tempio Del Gusto. We did a (mostly vegetarian) cooking class in Amalfi and it was actually really good. And I'm far from vegetarian. Also enjoyed the porceddu in Sardinia.
Pizza was good but not worth getting it twice. I really did think the pasta was much better than what we have here.
I did not care for any of the seafood at any of the coastal towns I visited. I actually gave it multiple chances and always thought it was pretty bad.
There's some places that obviously are in business due to their location with a view and don't have great food so just gotta be aware of that.
I'm not a Michelin guy. Tried some but it's just not my thing. I enjoyed the smaller mid tier places
In Florence I had great steaks at Osteria dell'Enoteca and La Tenda Rossa. I loved the lasagna at Trattoria Za Za.
My favorite meal anywhere was in a town called Spoleto at Il Tempio Del Gusto. We did a (mostly vegetarian) cooking class in Amalfi and it was actually really good. And I'm far from vegetarian. Also enjoyed the porceddu in Sardinia.
Pizza was good but not worth getting it twice. I really did think the pasta was much better than what we have here.
I did not care for any of the seafood at any of the coastal towns I visited. I actually gave it multiple chances and always thought it was pretty bad.
There's some places that obviously are in business due to their location with a view and don't have great food so just gotta be aware of that.
I'm not a Michelin guy. Tried some but it's just not my thing. I enjoyed the smaller mid tier places
This post was edited on 6/26/26 at 7:07 pm
Posted on 6/26/26 at 7:24 pm to DonJuanDaMiles
Yeah, the point of renting a car is to visit wineries, etc. in the countryside. I enjoyed visiting Podere il Casale outside Pienza and seeing their sheep dairy that they use to make pecorino cheese. It was great to taste a number of their cheeses paired with different wines.
You don't need (or want) a car to visit cities. Many cities have a ZTL, meaning you can't even drive a car into the historic part of the city. Get a car only if you want to drive around to small towns and rural areas of Tuscany, Umbria, etc.
You don't need (or want) a car to visit cities. Many cities have a ZTL, meaning you can't even drive a car into the historic part of the city. Get a car only if you want to drive around to small towns and rural areas of Tuscany, Umbria, etc.
Posted on 6/26/26 at 7:42 pm to Yeti_Chaser
Yeti, I don't know that we're that far apart. It's true you can get a good Steak Florentine in Florence. My point is just a lack of general variety at Italian restaurants serving Italian food. You'll get the same list of pastas nearly everywhere. And the pasta is good - I just meant that intra-Italy, there isn't a lot of variation.
Now that I think about it, maybe you are right about the seafood being disappointing in general.
Note: my commentary is mostly based on experience in the north - Rome, Bologna, Florence, Milan, Modena.
We ate at a really fancy tasting menu place on NYE in Milan and it was...really weird. On top of being preposterously slow, there just was nothing coherent or special about it at all.
Now that I think about it, maybe you are right about the seafood being disappointing in general.
Note: my commentary is mostly based on experience in the north - Rome, Bologna, Florence, Milan, Modena.
We ate at a really fancy tasting menu place on NYE in Milan and it was...really weird. On top of being preposterously slow, there just was nothing coherent or special about it at all.
Posted on 6/26/26 at 8:15 pm to GOP_Tiger
I don’t really want to drive around the cities. I just want flexibility to go where and when I want and not have to worry about finding temporary places to store my luggage while I go walking around. Maybe it’s not worth the hassle. I loved driving in Germany but absolutely hated driving in Prague. I get all your points.
Posted on 6/26/26 at 8:17 pm to DonJuanDaMiles
quote:I'm actually driving across Germany next week. Would you mind sharing what you loved about it? (I'm also driving in France and Poland).
I loved driving in Germany
Posted on 6/26/26 at 8:32 pm to DonJuanDaMiles
We have a car at my house in southern italy. We use it for day trips to cities that are harder to get to by train. Other than that, we don't use it. If you're in big cities, no real reason to have a car. But driving around Italy is pretty damn easy
Naples is kind of dumpy, but has some of the best food in all of Italy.
Naples is kind of dumpy, but has some of the best food in all of Italy.
This post was edited on 6/26/26 at 8:33 pm
Posted on 6/26/26 at 9:48 pm to Big Scrub TX
quote:
I'm actually driving across Germany next week. Would you mind sharing what you loved about it? (I'm also driving in France and Poland).
It was pretty orderly like people followed the rules and it wasn’t aggressive like Prague. The interstates go around the cities not through them. I got to test drive a really extremely quick BMW on the autobahn. I actually had some really nice meals there. I did not enjoy the breakfast scene there. At that point of my life I hadn’t developed a love for pastries and I hear Germany is great for that. I didnt even drink coffee back then.
Posted on 6/27/26 at 7:35 am to DonJuanDaMiles
quote:
I just want flexibility to go where and when I want and not have to worry about finding temporary places to store my luggage while I go walking around.
Most of the train stations have luggage storage
Posted on 6/27/26 at 7:37 am to TheOcean
quote:
We have a car at my house in southern italy.
You're able to own a house and a car in Italy? I'm curious as to how you pulled that off
Posted on 6/27/26 at 8:20 am to Yeti_Chaser
quote:
You're able to own a house and a car in Italy? I'm curious as to how you pulled that off
Yes, we even have a mortgage in Italy for the house. The car is technically registered in another EU country, though. Italy doesn't allow foreigners to register a car in Italy for some odd reason
Posted on 6/27/26 at 12:45 pm to DonJuanDaMiles
quote:I understand now.
I got to test drive a really extremely quick BMW on the autobahn.
Posted on 6/27/26 at 12:46 pm to TheOcean
quote:Are you a citizen?
Yes, we even have a mortgage in Italy for the house. The car is technically registered in another EU country, though. Italy doesn't allow foreigners to register a car in Italy for some odd reason
Posted on 6/27/26 at 12:48 pm to SloaneRanger
quote:
Now if you want to get out in the country the car will really help.
Agreed.
One of the best meals we had on our trip was in Montalcino (Re di Macchia) - would not have been able to eat there if we did not have a car.
Otherwise, OP, you can't go wrong with the big cities, but you will be leaving some gems on the table by only sticking with the big cities...
Posted on 6/28/26 at 6:19 am to TheOcean
Spent last night in Naples. Had some of the best fried anchovies I’ve ever had and I’ve had them all over Italy.
I do agree though in that the pasta does get repetitive the longer you stay here.
I do agree though in that the pasta does get repetitive the longer you stay here.
Posted on 6/28/26 at 8:03 am to Big Scrub TX
quote:
My point is just a lack of general variety at Italian restaurants serving Italian food.
My experiences in Italy have been very different than yours.
Each region in Italy has different focuses and specialize in what’s unique to them. The baked mussels were very different than the steak in just 2-3 hours of travel.
Posted on 6/28/26 at 12:29 pm to kciDAtaE
quote:I always thought Italians eating pasta was an Americanized thing, but it's not. They eat way more than I thought possible. Every restaurant peddles pasta. We were visiting a relative that had moved there for a year and the host family they lived with had virtually no protein - pasta, pasta, pasta every meal. (And of course they still weren't fat
My experiences in Italy have been very different than yours.
Each region in Italy has different focuses and specialize in what’s unique to them. The baked mussels were very different than the steak in just 2-3 hours of travel.
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