Scope Mounting Advice

As someone who has an affliction for things that kick hard, I'm a fan of a one piece pic rail and the lowest rings that'll fit. All mounted with loctite on the bolts as well as between the rail and reciever and on the scope tube under the rings. I personally don't think the brand of ring matters all that much so long as they are steel and properly installed.

If you're going to be cranking turrets, spend some time researching what scopes track most reliably. I'd spend some time perusing the rokslide long range hunting forum before buying the expensive bits.

Scalarworks LEAP if you want the best.

I have a Swaro Z8i 1-8x24 thats sitting in one. Incredibly well-engineered and well-constructed. Super lightweight with awesome QOL features

Just to note this will be in a benchrest target rifle. Weight/etc. is of no concern. Just want the easiest system to get precision/accuracy.

20 MOA rail, don't need a cantilever mount unless it's on an AR or something where additional eye relief may be needed. There are plenty of one-piece mounts that are not cantilevered. I like high rings as it is easier to get behind the gun, but all of my rifles also have cheek risers.

Of your posted scopes, I would throw the Leupold out. If you can afford the NX8 as its not in the same class as the other two then that's the pick. Especially if you can get a discount on them through a site like Expert Voice. There are some dealers on Sniper's Hide that match Euro Optic's First Responder prices without asking for proof and charge no tax.

I'd take a Trijicon TenMile over the Mark 5. But, if you can afford the NX8 it is very nice.

Id buy some quality pic rings like nightforce, seekins, ARC, or unknown munitions, clean the rail with acetone, and completely disassemble the scope mounts, degrease the screws with acetone, reassemble and mount with a dab of low or medium strength loctite (purple or blue) on all the screws, and I’d get a good torque wrench to torque everything down to the manufacturer recommendation.

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Loctite acts as a lube and you will over torque the screws if you use it.

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Agreed, this is very true. I still use a little when I do it.

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I'm a fan of a one piece pic rail and the lowest rings that'll fit. All mounted with loctite on the bolts as well as between the rail and reciever. I personally don't think the brand of ring matters all that much so long as they are steel and properly installed.

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This^^

And this vvvv

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clean the rail with acetone, and completely disassemble the scope mounts, degrease the screws with acetone, reassemble and mount with a dab of low or medium strength loctite (purple or blue) on all the screws, and I’d get a good torque wrench to torque everything down to the manufacturer recommendation.

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For the past 15 years or so I've only used a one piece rail/base (usually Weaver but also Outerimpact and Leupold) and Burris Signature Z rings (the ones w/ the plastic inserts). I've always used a 0 MOA rail, but my shots are <500 yds. Since I started usng Burris plastic inserts I quit lapping the scope rings. At least twice I've used non-standard plastic inserts to zero a scope after running out of internal scope adjustment. If I can't find my Loctite or am too lazy to look for it, I use some of my wife's (no pics) nail polish. I don't have actone for cleaning so I use her fingernail polish remover. The rings for my 30 mm tube scopes have 4 screws/ring, but the rest have 2 screws/ring. I think we sometimes have a tendency to overthink scope mounting. Keep us updated. I always enjoy reading about someone else's build.

Seekins precision

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Why are you using a rail? Is it not drilled & tapped for a direct scope mount?

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If shooting in long distance competition using a 20 MOA rail will give you 20 MOA more of scope adjustment.

Typically not that big of an issue but it can come in handy if shoot really long distances.