bigbuckdj

Rokslide Thread

I’m following this thread and agree something seems off from the past 5 years I’ve been applying. Maybe today isn’t the day.

Maybe they’re stuck trying to figure out how I drew every single tag I applied for.

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Good luck. I apply for everything pretty much every year too. Finally drew a mule deer tag last year. Hoping I draw something again this year.

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I got lucky a few years ago on an archery elk tag, I’m itching to go again

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I bought one as a backup to an Zebralight and Armytek. For some reason it has become my go-to light and the other $80-100 lights mostly sit in the drawer. I do worry a bit about recharging the chiniese lithium 18650 battery and the fires that have been happening with cheap lithium. I make sure to not leave it charging when not at home. But that goes for all chinese battery stuff.

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Look I have a problem, I have many many lights, I have probably owned every light mentioned here. Armytek wizard C2 pro, pro nichia, and the zebralight H600 are my favorite headlights for a general use white light. If you want a spot/flood/red combo lights the Sofirn HS21 is one of the best regardless of price, and is my typical recommendation for a hunter or fisherman that just wants one headlamp. It does not have a regulated driver but for a cheap white/red combo, the Sofirn H25LR is tough to beat for $20. The batteries that come with the Sofirn and Wurkkos lights seem to be quality rewraps.

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Making one with wire EDM and nitride is like putting autozone hood scoops and chrome hub caps on a 2001 tacoma.

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To flip this on its head a bit, what will a 700 clone do that this tikka clone can’t?

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650 for a blued gun. Add 100$ for coating 75$ for a pic rail Puts it at 825$ without any other features such as timed action threading, 100% compatibility with prefits and interchangeable bolt face ability. It’s a 375$ difference to be able to build exactly what I want and not have a pile of parts that nobody wants to buy from me (barrel stock and trigger) That’s my rationale and how I’m justifying it to myself lol

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This is it, a stainless tikka is $750, you’ll get like $150 for the old stock and barrel. Screwed pic rails suck and I don’t want to Jb weld my new gun.

Stainless tikka
-$750
+$150 for old stock and barrel
-$80 for area419 20 moa rail
-$8 kwikweld
-$85 bolt fluting
-$150 action nitride
-$100 for a UM bolt knob

North of $1000 for a similarly equipped factory action plus shipping your action to get it worked on plus the risk of damaging something if you try to pull the factory barrel yourself or the additional cost of getting the barrel pulled.

This isn’t for a guy who wants a factory tikka, it’s for the guy who is gonna do all those things any way and wants guaranteed headspace and an integral rail.

Things have changed so much. There are definitely less hunters in general. No one has permission to hunt on private because common people don’t own big tracts of land anymore. Incredibly wealthy people and corporations aren’t giving away hunting rights for free or even at all in some cases.

The common, unconnected dude is slugging it out on public while he sits on a waitlist for a hunting club. There aren’t many people who have an appetite for that so they just don’t hunt.

So I have 80k on my ‘23 tundra and they are gonna give me a brand new engine? My vin matches the new range.

Man this is a pretty negative thread. Tell him to target engineering firms if he wants chemical or oil and gas experience, major operating companies are generally shrinking and the industry as a whole is utilizing more contract and “offshore” labor.

The days of being a 30 year engineer for Shell or Chevron aren’t completely gone but if he hasnt had a few internships or a serious connection in those companies, he’s gonna need to hustle up some experience as a contractor. There’s mechanical engineers everywhere, tell him to identify an industry he’s excited about and spend some time trying to find an entry point.

Idle time could be spent sweeping or existing somehow in a pressure vessel shop or industrial machine shop and he’d be ahead of many peers knowing what a flange, nozzle, impeller, bearing, etc. is.

It has a mikuni carb? If it ran fine for years I wouldn’t spend the money on an oem one. Can you rebuild the one you have?

What does redone mean? Like floor and transom?

I had one of those, it was a good boat, the scuppers stay underwater and it doesnt drain very well. Downshift is right, the gas tank console sucks but you can always look down and kick it when you dont know how much gas you have. It rides pretty good for a light 21' boat which isnt that great. but its pretty quick with a 150 and its incredibly fuel efficient.

How good of a deal that is completely depends on the motor and what was redone. If the motor checks out and the floor and transom are solid, thats a good deal. That is, if it fits your needs.