re: Boat rebuild thread - 33T Contender (pic heavy)

Been a while since an update, but finally had some time this weekend to knock a lot out. All the bilge plumbing is done (all new valves, hose and thru hulls). Only hose/fittings that we didn’t replace are the two deck drain fittings and hose, mainly because they are still functional and would be a major headache to replace.


T-Top back rail and leaning post are installed


And about 80% of dash equipment/rigging has been installed. Just waiting on the (2) VHFs with AIS to come in. They’ve been backordered since august. Worst case I’ll just throw in some cheap ones for now that will have a similar size mounting hole. Those will mount on each side of the Yamaha display.



Also got the radar, XM, antennas, etc mounted to the TTop, a good bit of the wiring pulled to console, and started building out terminal strip layouts. Yamaha rigging is complete, with the exception of the harnesses that go back to the motor. You can see the battery switch/breaker panel I made on left side of console as well.


Starting to move along pretty quick now. Hopefully another week to finish off the electronics and wiring, then we can hang the yamahas and get her in the water. Probably another week of work after that to finish off rod holders, deck latches and other odds and ends, but we’re finally starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel

Should have a pretty good picture dump this weekend once we knock out the electronics and wiring.

How do you like those seacocks? I've never got to put my hands on one. Are they flanged or 5200 in place?

I'm doing seacocks on my bay boat at some point here and was leaning towards that style over brass flanged ones. Im a little concerned about the handle getting tight and me spinning them in the transom.

So they aren’t true seacocks per say. A true sea cock has integral flange on the bottom part of the valve that threads to the thru hull. The idea is the flange bolts to bottom of hull in bilge to prevent shearing the thru hull threads if someone leans on it or something. I just went from thru hull threads to a tee and branched to the valves for livewell pumps. That’s how contender does it from the factory, and it’s good enough for me so I went back with it. The bronze is solid though. You can get pretty rough with it and it doesn’t budge. The thru hull/strainer clamshell is 4200 to bottom of hull (I never really use 5200, 4200 is fine for below water line and won’t rip the fiberglass off if you have to remove it). Thru hull has a nut on the inner part of hull to sandwich it down against hull. Then I have tee to the valves. Sealed all the threads with 4200 just because it makes me feel better. There are conflicting opinions on this if you read up on it enough, but I’m good with it.

Only regret is I wish I used the Gemlux valves for livewell pump valves like I did the thru hull drains in the back. They are way easier to open and close, and should never seize up no matter how much abuse they see. The Gemlux stuff is awesome.

Edit - here’s a better picture of livewell thru hull branches

Yes. Those are just a Gemlux valve threaded straight into to the thru hull. Thru hull is installed like our livewell one, 4200 to bottom of boat with a nut on bilge side of hull to compress it to hull. Valve just treads on top. Gemlux does sell a load bearing collar specifically for their valves that rates them the same as a true flanged sea cock if you wanted to go that route too.

LINK

My joints hurt and I feel Cape Horn moist.

quote:

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seacocks? I've never got to put my hands on one

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hehe

In our defense would have been done wayyyyy sooner if we didn’t decide to replace tanks halfway through lol.

Planning to hang motors this weekend so hopefully we’re almost done

You're now a master electrician after hanging all that wire. Great job.

holy crap. looking at the wiring makes me happy.