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re: ATTN: contractors/engineers of the OB
Posted on 3/21/17 at 4:11 pm to bluemoons
Posted on 3/21/17 at 4:11 pm to bluemoons
carpenter/handyman. Ideally someone who can do both the wood and drywall. If you don't mind a non-licensed person working on basic wiring, someone that is willing to do that was well.
See if you can find someone word of mouth.
See if you can find someone word of mouth.
0
Posted on 3/21/17 at 4:13 pm to bluemoons
quote:
He said I run a serious risk of the whole damn roof caving in if I remove those headers.
From what I see this seems to be a little extreme. Looks like the wall is an interior wall so depending on how the rest the roof is designed the wall might not actually carry that much load when compared to an exterior wall. I would get someone to look at it that can see your plans to advise on what your options are.
Posted on 3/21/17 at 8:55 pm to bluemoons
From the headers above the adjacent door openings this is a load bearing wall and will need a full beam over the entire opening.
Talk to you builder and inquire about opening that up.
I used to build spec homes and you can usually make "custom" request at a cost. Usually cost plus about 30%. Call the PM assigned to your deal and talk them in to it. They are motivated by good reviews from customers more than finishing the home.
It's not that big of a request at this point but will cost you some time and cash. Trying to do this later will cost more in the long run.
They can add a glue lam beam there to span the space.
Talk to you builder and inquire about opening that up.
I used to build spec homes and you can usually make "custom" request at a cost. Usually cost plus about 30%. Call the PM assigned to your deal and talk them in to it. They are motivated by good reviews from customers more than finishing the home.
It's not that big of a request at this point but will cost you some time and cash. Trying to do this later will cost more in the long run.
They can add a glue lam beam there to span the space.
Posted on 3/21/17 at 9:47 pm to bluemoons
quote:
eta: who would be the proper person to hire to put in a cased opening? Just a carpenter?
There is really a lot going on with this change. You need to remove drywall on the ceiling and walls to add beam. You need to drywall up after framing repairs are done, you need to replace/ change the crown molding (if there is any) change the baseboards in the area and then add a case opening. You need the ceiling and walls painted. This is the most difficult part, the flooring. The flooring is going to be jacked up and will require some serious rework to make it work, if it is even possible. $1k change now, probably 3-4k after the fact..
Posted on 3/21/17 at 9:50 pm to wickowick
Again, changing it now is not an option. As much as I wish this were the case, I've exhausted all attempts at getting that done. They just won't do it.
I think the cased opening is really my only hope to get this thing opened up. I'm gonna look into that. I'm not talking about a cased opening all the way to the floor...just something that's maybe a 5' wide open window of sorts between the kitchen and the living room. It wouldn't go all the way down to the floor, and I'd probably surface the bottom of the opening with granite that matches the rest of the kitchen. That would also give me kind of a bar front in my living room.
I think the cased opening is really my only hope to get this thing opened up. I'm gonna look into that. I'm not talking about a cased opening all the way to the floor...just something that's maybe a 5' wide open window of sorts between the kitchen and the living room. It wouldn't go all the way down to the floor, and I'd probably surface the bottom of the opening with granite that matches the rest of the kitchen. That would also give me kind of a bar front in my living room.
This post was edited on 3/21/17 at 9:51 pm
Posted on 3/21/17 at 9:53 pm to bluemoons
quote:
I'm not talking about a cased opening all the way to the floor...
Then you are using the wrong terminology, you are talking about an interior window and not a cased opening
Posted on 3/21/17 at 9:56 pm to bluemoons
I think I would take $1k cash and offer it to the guy overseeing the build to leave that thing open...
Posted on 3/21/17 at 9:59 pm to wickowick
quote:
Then you are using the wrong terminology, you are talking about an interior window and not a cased opening
Sorry, as I said before, I'm ignorant when it comes to framing.
Already tried to get the super to do this under the rug for me. No dice. The builder's inspector comes out after to walk through. If the super screws up, or deviates from the plans, it's his arse.
This post was edited on 3/21/17 at 10:01 pm
Posted on 3/21/17 at 10:01 pm to bluemoons
What is the flooring in the 2 rooms?
Posted on 3/21/17 at 10:02 pm to wickowick
Tile in the kitchen, hardwood in the living room. Could you give me an idea of what I'd be looking at cost wise to put an interior window there?
Posted on 3/21/17 at 10:05 pm to bluemoons
Sounds like your builder is an arse. It's probably because they only know how to build one type of home and don't know how to do what you want. It is such an easy modification at this point.
Posted on 3/21/17 at 10:10 pm to wickowick
quote:
change the baseboards in the area and then add a case opening.
quote:
This is the most difficult part, the flooring. The flooring is going to be jacked up and will require some serious rework to make it work, if it is even possible. $1k change now, probably 3-4k after the fact..
One of us is not on same page as to what "cased opening" entails.
My thinking was that it is basically a window space opened up in center wall connecting living and kitchen. This opening wouldn't fully extend down to floor and may not go all way to ceiling.
something along the lines of this:
It does suck that something can't be done now rather than after the fact. Would be great if builder had some flexibility. Sounds like it is what it is though.
ETA: a lot has transpired since I started this post
This post was edited on 3/21/17 at 10:13 pm
Posted on 3/21/17 at 10:13 pm to Chuker
That's exactly what I want. 
Posted on 3/21/17 at 10:14 pm to civiltiger07
Yes alot of explanation already in the thread so I will keep my post simple: it would be easy as frick to span that opening at this point and you are the one paying for the house. You need to be raising hell to the framers and work your way up the chain of command until you get what you want. It will cost a little money but if that's what you want then get it
Posted on 3/21/17 at 10:14 pm to Chuker
This is a cased opening, or what I have always called one
Posted on 3/21/17 at 10:20 pm to wickowick
yeah I think you're right. That is a proper cased opening. I'm amateur so the term didn't have much effect on my understanding the OP's problem.
Posted on 3/21/17 at 10:20 pm to Chuker
Whatever the terminology, I'd be perfectly happy with this.
So, can someone give me an idea of a.) who to hire, and b.) what I'd be looking at cost wise to do this?
So, can someone give me an idea of a.) who to hire, and b.) what I'd be looking at cost wise to do this?
Posted on 3/21/17 at 10:22 pm to bluemoons
That is easier to do, talk with the super, tell him to frame up a header and then drywall it in so it can't be seen, slip him some money. Then after the wall is completed, you just need a little drywall work, paint and a little wood trim...
Posted on 3/21/17 at 10:24 pm to bluemoons
Hire a carpenter to do the framing work (cut out Sheetrock, cut studs, install header, and box in bottom) and do the Sheetrock work yourself.
Or go do it yourself right now
Or go do it yourself right now
This post was edited on 3/21/17 at 10:26 pm
Posted on 3/21/17 at 10:25 pm to bluemoons
That should be fairly straightforward and I like the look of that a lot
eta: you could do that yourself with minimal skills
eta: you could do that yourself with minimal skills
This post was edited on 3/21/17 at 10:28 pm
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