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re: Proper Base For Concrete Patio?
Posted on 11/13/17 at 7:42 pm to SirSaintly
Posted on 11/13/17 at 7:42 pm to SirSaintly
Road base is fine. It is actually called crusher run, crush and run, or DGA It is not recycled concrete, tho the compression strength is high. You just want a barrier between the slab and dirt to drain. Sand is fine too.
0
Posted on 11/13/17 at 7:44 pm to SirSaintly
Sand is ok
Posted on 11/13/17 at 8:01 pm to SirSaintly
How big is this piece of concrete? One of the most important things not mentioned here is scoring the concrete. Concrete will always crack. Scoring it makes it crack where you want it to and where you won't see it (in the score joint). For a patio on clay you can actually pour it on just compacted soil (compacted by a machine). The wire mesh will help and stone aggregate is a typical base.
Posted on 11/13/17 at 8:02 pm to SirSaintly
Sand base is common for patios.
Posted on 11/13/17 at 8:07 pm to SirSaintly
Most that I have seen have been on sand...however, either will work for a patio base.
Posted on 11/13/17 at 8:10 pm to Napoleon
If it’s just a patio then you don’t need any base under it other than the native soil. If you need to raise the existing grade to the bottom of concrete then you can use sand as a leveling course. If you’re worried about cracking, just add a construction joint at 10-15’.
Posted on 11/13/17 at 8:16 pm to tigeroarz1
It'll be about 16x40. All bids say they'll saw cut control joints in patio as needed. Both will install 3/8" rebar 18" on center. One quoted 3500 PSI mix, while the other quoted 3000 PSI.
Posted on 11/13/17 at 8:26 pm to SirSaintly
3000 psi will be fine. A 4'x4' score pattern would look nice. At least make them do 8'x8' scoring.
Posted on 11/13/17 at 8:31 pm to SirSaintly
Rebar in a 4" patio slab? What do you plan to put on this? A dump truck? Tank?
Posted on 11/13/17 at 8:34 pm to CWS91
quote:
Rebar in a 4" patio slab? What do you plan to put on this? A dump truck? Tank?
I didn't ask for rebar. All contractors I've contacted have included it in their bids. I think it's common practice in Dallas
Posted on 11/13/17 at 8:41 pm to SirSaintly
make sure you have a footing
Posted on 11/13/17 at 8:43 pm to Foxfire7
quote:
Ps don't let finishers water down the mix once on site
As long as they don't exceed their water cement ratio, adding water isn't a big deal, within reason. Just check your batch weights, and keep it under a 5" slump.
Posted on 11/13/17 at 8:49 pm to Bayoutigre
quote:
make sure you have a footing
Why do I need a footing? Serious question as not one contractor has mentioned it.
Posted on 11/13/17 at 8:57 pm to SirSaintly
Confined sand is strong. That is why most driven piles are driven to the sand layer. Once it sits it ain't moving.
Posted on 11/13/17 at 9:06 pm to SirSaintly
quote:
I'm in Dallas on expansive clay soil that wildly contracts and expands depending on moisture.
This might be your biggest issue. It might not matter what base you use, if you have highly expansive soils. Hopefully, you're soil is at, or 2-4% above optimum moisture.
In Colorado, the soils were very expensive. Every building built requires a sub excavation, often several feet below grade. They cut it all out, moisture condition it, then bring it back up in lifts.
No clue about the Dallas area, and if this is common practice over there.
Being a patio, I doubt it'll be very deep. It may be worth a couple hundred bucks to run a proctor and figure out what the moisture content of your native soil is. Because if it's very dry, it won't matter if you use crusher run or sand.
Personally, if you can get a compactable gravel base, that's your best material. But it's usually much more expensive than sand. My only issue with sand, is most people don't compact it properly, especially thin lifts like you're talking about.
Posted on 11/13/17 at 9:16 pm to CCTider
I like crushed concrete. Or I would do gravel and sugar it with about an inch of sand. Good idea to extend base out from patio. You dont need a footer. I dont see base making much of a difference. Personal preference really.
Posted on 11/13/17 at 9:23 pm to NELARiceGuy
People saying you can pour on native soil or just sand don't understand the amount of movement we get in the soils here.
Posted on 11/13/17 at 11:48 pm to SirSaintly
I just left a job in Denton. We poured several concrete pads over sand. There is no need for the rebar in that size pad. Wire mesh is useless so don't put that in.
Sand is easier to compact than crusher run and cheaper. You need to check the sand doesn't pump when you walk on it. And the steel needs to be in the bottom third of the pad. Ideally no more than an 1.5" above the bottom if using #4s.
Either of the two strengths work. Hell 2000 psi would be fine too.
Pick the contractor you trust the most and not necessarily the cheapest.
Sand is easier to compact than crusher run and cheaper. You need to check the sand doesn't pump when you walk on it. And the steel needs to be in the bottom third of the pad. Ideally no more than an 1.5" above the bottom if using #4s.
Either of the two strengths work. Hell 2000 psi would be fine too.
Pick the contractor you trust the most and not necessarily the cheapest.
Posted on 11/14/17 at 12:32 am to Zappas Stache
quote:
People saying you can pour on native soil or just sand don't understand the amount of movement we get in the soils here.
Then it sounds like it's guaranteed to crack, unless the soils are moisture conditioned. Definitely should put in extra control joints.
And screw welded wire. If he wants a crack prevention, fibermesh works better, imo.
Posted on 11/14/17 at 4:13 am to SirSaintly
Shouldn't be even with slab.
Need some freeboard there or will have wind driven rain blowing under exterior walls.
Need some freeboard there or will have wind driven rain blowing under exterior walls.
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