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Posted on 11/29/19 at 1:40 pm to kywildcatfanone
quote:
Was expecting video
Gonna check out Death Addict for it.
Posted on 11/29/19 at 1:49 pm to NotoriousFSU
quote:
Maybe they should have waited till after they were safe and on the ground before they decide to spit a fresh 16.
I’m a speed climber on my way to the top
Yelling, “look out below” as I begin to drop
Had to double check, I thought this was a fr33mantor post for a sec
Posted on 11/29/19 at 1:52 pm to CAD703X
Was reported that his last words were
"Damn, I shouldn't ate popcorn before climbingggggggggg......."
"Damn, I shouldn't ate popcorn before climbingggggggggg......."
Posted on 11/29/19 at 1:53 pm to CAD703X
quote:
I went through some vegetation, and then all I remember is seeing his blue Gramicci shirt bounce over the edge."
Seems like an odd time for a brand shoutout, but ok.
Posted on 11/29/19 at 1:59 pm to CAD703X
I told you guys we needed to start an investment club buying life insurance policies on speed climbers.
Posted on 11/29/19 at 1:59 pm to CAD703X
The jokes in this thread are idiotic.
Sad situation. Hope his survivors find some solace.
Sad situation. Hope his survivors find some solace.
Posted on 11/29/19 at 2:01 pm to jbgleason
quote:
Read the article. They were “simu rappelling” which is two guys rappell descending on a single rope. Rope failed and they both fell. I had never heard of this and I have Rope Rescue and other climbing training. After reading about the technique, there is no fricking way I would do it.
Simul-rappeling is a technique for speed climbing just like simul-climbing. I have done both many times and they generally don't have much more danger than a single climber on a rope if you set protection correctly and the anchor points are good. Either the rope broke or the anchor popped most climbers are very aware of rope condition and dynamic kernmantle ropes don't generally give way under the low stress of rapping unless it is being rubbed over a sharp edge. Good climbers usually catch this.
ETA not sure if it gets cleared up later in the thread but several people are mixing up free climbing and soloing.
Free climbing means climbing without any aid (vs funny enough aid climbing). Aid climbing is used a lot on El Cap and other big walls. Soloing means no ropes. They are adjectives to denote two different parts of the climb's ethics.
This post was edited on 11/29/19 at 2:05 pm
Posted on 11/29/19 at 2:10 pm to truthbetold
Most trad (traditional climbers) free solo on occasion until they quite climbing often in their 70s. I don't know of any epic free solos Alex has planned but he probably free solos a route or two every time he is at the crags.
Posted on 11/29/19 at 2:15 pm to LSUintheNW
quote:
I never want someone else on my rope.
Eta....tried it once on snow in a safe setting. No thanks. Handing out trust like that is not my thing.
Multiple people on a rope when alpine climbing is a MUST for safety. Climbing partners are people you have to trust completely whether they are belaying or on the rope with you. I have saved and been saved multiple times alpine climbing one ropes of 3-5 people.
Posted on 11/29/19 at 2:32 pm to Obtuse1
We rappelled like this after Son’s of Yesterday, or Serenity-Sons...can’t remember. Tie two ropes together, weight the knot up against the anchor, both rap down. Find the next anchor, pull ropes, rinse and repeat until you’re down.
Had to pull anchor a couple of times on the Regular up Higher Cathedral as well, tons of gear in between so no big deal.
Had to pull anchor a couple of times on the Regular up Higher Cathedral as well, tons of gear in between so no big deal.
This post was edited on 11/29/19 at 2:47 pm
Posted on 11/29/19 at 2:37 pm to DavidTheGnome
fr33mantor wishes he could keep up with these bars
Posted on 11/29/19 at 2:40 pm to Obtuse1
quote:
Multiple people on a rope when alpine climbing is a MUST for safety.
For glacier travel etc, of course. That's not what we are talking about though.
Eta....they aren't alpine climbing so why are you referring to it?
This post was edited on 11/29/19 at 2:43 pm
Posted on 11/29/19 at 3:05 pm to LSUintheNW
quote:
For glacier travel etc, of course. That's not what we are talking about though.
Eta....they aren't alpine climbing so why are you referring to it?
tried it once on snow in a safe setting
I was responding to the post regarding snow...
I also was poting out that in most any climbing scenario you have to have trust in your partner.
Gaston mentioned a know on one side of the anchor, in general, you want to avoid that since it significantly reduces the strength of the rope and you will play hell getting the knot out.
Normal simul-rapping would be set up as such:
1. you rappel rope would be slung through the anchor and brought to the center
2. tie a not at each end of the rope, I prefer a figure 8 on a bight but even a simple overhand will work
3. each use your primary belay device and back it up with a second usually a prussic
4. use a runner/sling or daisy chain to connect both climbers
This is fairly foolproof but speed climbers will likely avoid some of the redundancy
IMO is was almost certainly a rope failure and it may have been a result of using a worn half of a dual or twin rope system, climbers often do it for faster raps.
Posted on 11/29/19 at 3:14 pm to Obtuse1
I was with a Valley guide, Josh, and a veteran YOSAR climber and I was just happy there were no more finger cracks.
Went back and did the full ascent with a death slab descent...I think rapping down is easily the safer option.
Went back and did the full ascent with a death slab descent...I think rapping down is easily the safer option.
Posted on 11/29/19 at 3:15 pm to Obtuse1
quote:
tried it once on snow in a safe setting
Yeah, simul rapping. Eta....I was clearly talking about that if you read more than 1 sentence.
quote:
I also was poting out that in most any climbing scenario you have to have trust in your partner.
We both always contribute in these threads.
Why is that? Cause we both are in that world. It's clear I'm not talking out of my arse on the subject.
I understand about trust and partners etc.
This post was edited on 11/29/19 at 3:22 pm
Posted on 12/2/19 at 5:11 pm to NotoriousFSU
quote:
fr33mantor wishes he could keep up with these bars
Name the place and time, fella
Posted on 12/2/19 at 5:52 pm to fr33manator
Found a video of what is apparently the technique. I will give this a big fat fricking NOPE. Also, those ropes do not look thick enough.
LINK
Here's a video explaining how you should properly set it up. I would wager those guys did not have the redundant safety rigging that this guy is talking about.
LINK
LINK
Here's a video explaining how you should properly set it up. I would wager those guys did not have the redundant safety rigging that this guy is talking about.
LINK
Posted on 12/2/19 at 6:28 pm to Chucktown_Badger
Did you ever do The Generator crack on the valley floor? That’s the most kick-arse rope rope I’ve ever been up. Perfect introduction to what lies ahead.
Posted on 12/2/19 at 8:19 pm to CAD703X
Natural selection at work again
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