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re: New A/C System - Pay in Full or Finance?
Posted on 7/8/26 at 2:03 am to TheMagicMan
Posted on 7/8/26 at 2:03 am to TheMagicMan
If you're in Mandeville/Covington area I have a good small local independent guy to recommend you to.
This post was edited on 7/8/26 at 2:06 am
2
Posted on 7/8/26 at 3:49 am to TheMagicMan
Good deal for Carrier. Just had a 2 ton Rheem inside and out installed for $8450 with thermostat. Cash price
Posted on 7/8/26 at 3:56 am to TheMagicMan
My guy discounted around 500 for all cash. I'd tell him to drop the UV crap. Seems like a fair price for new duct work too.
Posted on 7/8/26 at 4:08 am to XxxSpooky1
quote:Install your own uv lights. They are readily available for ac systems.
Such bullshite. Pull the coils, clean them, put them back in.
The smaller tonnage units will run a little longer. This will make your home more comfortable as they will do better at pulling the humidity out of your house.
Oversized units will run less but not enough to make the house as comfortable as they will cool it down without running enough to get the humidity down.
Posted on 7/8/26 at 4:12 am to lsu xman
quote:
My guy discounted around 500 for all cash. I'd tell him to drop the UV crap. Seems like a fair price for new duct work too.
OP’s guy isn’t going to do that. He already quoted him a fair deal and as a small outfit doesn’t mess around with financing anyway. The price is the price.
Posted on 7/8/26 at 4:52 am to sharkfhin
quote:
If you have a 3.5 ton, why not get a 3.5?
Probably bc 3.5 is oversized and short cycling and thus causes high humidity as well as shortens the life of the unit.
Posted on 7/8/26 at 5:10 am to TheMagicMan
quote:
Is $9,500 for a Carrier 3 ton unit a good deal? More importantly, I have the money to pay for the new A/C system outright. Would it be better to pay off in full at installation or finance?
Very unlikely you have investments earning more than the interest on AC financing if you are askimg this question, not to be an A-hole. Just bite the bullet and pay for it if you can and not put yourself in a bind.
Like I said earlier, I just replaced a 4 ton unit and got multiple quotes, thats not a bad deal.
Posted on 7/8/26 at 5:11 am to TheMagicMan
I replaced mine with a new system 2 years ago. My energy bill went down about 110 a month. Paid 8500 for a 3.5 ton.
Posted on 7/8/26 at 5:43 am to TheMagicMan
I would get a 2nd opinion on what the actual problem is and the cost to repair vs. the cost to replace. Then make your decision.
Posted on 7/8/26 at 5:45 am to TheMagicMan
quote:
More importantly, I have the money to pay for the new A/C system outright. Would it be better to pay off in full at installation or finance?
This is actually a "simple" way to get this answer yourself.
Compare the interest rate to what you expect the market to return. If the interest rate is higher, buy it out right. If the market returns are higher, invest the money and finance.
Posted on 7/8/26 at 5:59 am to Spankum
quote:no, ac unit gaskets don't last forever. if you get 2 decades, you're doing well. plus all that build up just makes the unit work harder and less efficient.
but this sounds like he is shooting you a line of BS in hopes that he can sell you a new unit.
Posted on 7/8/26 at 6:30 am to TheMagicMan
Ruud
Posted on 7/8/26 at 6:43 am to BamaCoaster
quote:
Pull the trigger, as financing hvac systems pays a high interest
Unless you can get 0% (we did when we replaced our 4 ton a few years ago) bite the bullet
Posted on 7/8/26 at 6:47 am to TheMagicMan
I paid $8ish about two years ago. Fairly similar to your sized home, though mine is 2.5 (I think). Paid cash, but sometimes it's better to finance if you think you'll need the cash for something down the road. Just depends.
Posted on 7/8/26 at 6:48 am to TheMagicMan
Mine was leaking, too. I had a friend come look at it and he said coils were awfully dirty and felt that’s what was causing the drip. Drain was working fine. He came over with a special brush, coil spray, water bucket and took his time cleaning. Even got a 3rd center coil housed in a difficult location. I’ve paid professionals to clean my coils 2x, he said they either lied or didn’t do a good job. Anyway, it’s 5 days and no leaking. Air running well as it can in a home with poor insulation and this heat. And it hasn’t frozen up again, where it was beginning to freeze. 6 year old Trane.
I may replace all next year bc I need a new heater and it’s dinosaur age so want all to relatively match. Plus I’m not wild about this Trane. Your guy needs to inspect and if it’s just dirty coils, clean them. It made a difference. Most just want to sell a new system. My friend didn’t remove the coils to clean, that’s a whole other ballgame. And he told me that. But what he did helped.
I may replace all next year bc I need a new heater and it’s dinosaur age so want all to relatively match. Plus I’m not wild about this Trane. Your guy needs to inspect and if it’s just dirty coils, clean them. It made a difference. Most just want to sell a new system. My friend didn’t remove the coils to clean, that’s a whole other ballgame. And he told me that. But what he did helped.
Posted on 7/8/26 at 6:48 am to TheMagicMan
Dirty coils will effect both heat transfer and will force the air to a higher velocity at the points on the coil that the air is not obstructed. This can cause the condensate on the surface of the coil that normally drains down the coil into the condensate pan to “blow” past the pan and into the unit/ductwork. Then leak into the units safe pan. (Where you would see water and a trip of the float switch)
It costs relatively nothing to try cleaning the coil. I would give that a shot and see what performance looks like afterwards.
Maybe at least make it to fall/winter to change the unit.
As far as mold, moisture, a food source, and darkness are what’s required for mold growth. Fix the water issue, clear the mold and that goes away.
For the evaporator coil to be dirty how often to you change your filter?
It costs relatively nothing to try cleaning the coil. I would give that a shot and see what performance looks like afterwards.
Maybe at least make it to fall/winter to change the unit.
As far as mold, moisture, a food source, and darkness are what’s required for mold growth. Fix the water issue, clear the mold and that goes away.
For the evaporator coil to be dirty how often to you change your filter?
Posted on 7/8/26 at 6:49 am to Meauxjeaux
Can you drop company, please? I’m making a list for next year. Thank you.
Posted on 7/8/26 at 6:49 am to jasonbr1975
quote:
I would get a 2nd opinion on what the actual problem is and the cost to repair vs. the cost to replace. Then make your decision.
I wouldn’t put a dime into a 24 year old unit, daddy government screws everyone by changing the gas every other year, they all have different vapor pressures so you have to change all the shite. It’s a joke
Posted on 7/8/26 at 6:55 am to MikeBRLA
quote:
Probably bc 3.5 is oversized and short cycling and thus causes high humidity as well as shortens the life of the unit.
This! The AC guy should know better. If 2.5 ton is rightsized then that's what should go in your townhome.
Also, it's hard to weigh in on financing if you don't give us the interest rate. But, likely it's an unattractive rate.
Posted on 7/8/26 at 7:19 am to TheMagicMan
Can you get a higher interest rate from some type of investment than what they are going to charge you to finance it?
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